Saifai

tyvm :-)

The number on the bottom is no serial number. This number is the same on every scope.

It's not that small. :-) It is starting right after the M19 with "No" and then the number. And as you can see on the scope i quoted from hairball, there is no "No" and no number, too. I also found 2 other M19 scopes in the internet, having no serial number, too. So it seem to be not so unusual. But why they have no serial number? The date is always 1942. But there are scopes from 1942 having a serial number, too.

Googling for a M19 i saw your M19 and realized, that it has no serial number, just like mine. I wonder, why they produced telescopes without a serial number back in the days? Or is this backpiece of the scope replaceable? And a spare part has no serial number anymore?

Tyvm @ all. :-) @ Tr00per, although it came to me that way, you are right, it need to be switched ;-) @ r_garcia3rd: i bought the parts and assebmled it on my own. A member of my garrison painted it with the correct structured paint, because the sterling was very used and had as good as no black paint anymore. I didnt need to drill holes in the sterling or glue anything on the sterling, so i could disassemble it again without problems. And i assebmled the T-Trackes using a heat gun instead of boiled water.

Real Sterling Real Telescope M38 1942 Power Cylinders by PlayfulWolfCub (REAL VINTAGE CAPACITORS) Real Hengstler Counter 400 with metal housing

delete please ty :-)

Ty all :-) But hey, as long as the tk suit fits, no gym is needed. ;-)

Thank you all very much for the kind words. :-)<br><br> Glad to be a centurion.

nvm. can be deleted. :-)

Somehow, my shoulders on those pics have a greater ditance than they normally have. I have a picture of the unboxing event in berlin. There, my shoulders look better (i think :-)) here, i am the left one

I think it is the way i connected the bizeps to the shoulders, too. But i needed to do that to move the bizeps more upwards. I had Problems with Moving my Arms otherwise. Because the bizeps and forarm had too much contact i could not bend my arms. <br><br> Now i am very flexible. I hope its no problem for centurion. I even was searching for some reference pics (before your hint :-)) to find some tks with the same "problem" :-)

Yeah. I know that Problem. But even if i try to pull the shoulder plates toward the body it does not get much closer. The elastics are very short already. I think my shoulders are a little bit too big. I am At the gym right now. ;-)<br><br> But i think, due to loosing 16 pounds of weight, i improved my look already a little bit compared to the eib pics. But i will try to get The shoulders closer to The body somehow.

Finally uploaded the rest of the pictures. ;-)

Name: Christian Schießl TK: 30514 Forum Name: Saifai Garrison: German Garrison Armor Maker: RS Prop Helmet Maker: RS Prop Blaster Type: Doopy Doos or conversion of a real sterling Height: 1,76 m Weight: 80 Kg Boots Maker: TK Boots Canvas Belt: RS Prop Hand Plates Type: RS Prop Latex Neckseal Type: RS Prop Holster Maker: RS Prop EIB Application Thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31466-tk-30514-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-rs-prop464/ I forgot to hold down the shoulder straps in the back via a white elastic band on those photos. In the EIB Application, i did. I hope this is ok?

Ty for congratulations. :-) @ Scott: alright, got it. :-)

Hi Steve, tyvm for the tips so far and eib. :-) The pictures show the armor how it is build at the moment. with having the ab and kidney aligned correctly it looked like this: is this gap between back and kidney still ok? the pictures showing the armor overlapping adulate me a little bit. as you can see on the last picture (which you quoted), ab and kidney are not overlapping, so i would have to keep the extra plastic there, do i?

First of all ty for the tips. :-) The problem is, that i cant move the Abdomen armor more upward than it is now. That means, the kidney has to move down to align both. This was clear before the build, too. And there were 2 decisions: moving the kidney down and having a pretty large gap between back armor and kidney (which is visible and does not look nice) or moving the kidney upward with having a not aligned (but not really visible) adjustment. I also cant move the back down a bit more because of the curve on the top (i hope the pictures show what i mean).

Name: Christian Schießl TK: 30514 Forum Name: Saifai Garrison: German Garrison Armor Maker: RS Prop Helmet Maker: RS Prop Blaster Type: Doopy Doo´s Height: 1´76 m Weight: 87 Kg Boots Maker: TK Boots Canvas Belt: RS Prop Hand Plates Type: RS Prop Latex Neckseal Type: RS Prop Holster Maker: RS Prop Thank you for your time. Best regards, Chris

Hey Mark, alright, ty for the tipps. i will think about it. right now i have to keep it this way. and there is a simple reason for that: its easier to store and transport this way :-)

Ah, sorry for missunderstanding. i thought u r talking about the kidney to posterior armor connection. there i have no return edge where the stripes are assembled. but now i understand you. ;-) the connection upper back to kidney is missing atm But the chest is already attached via shoulder straps to the back armor.

Ty for the feedback. :-) About the upper back plate to chest: The return edge is cut out there. So there is no chance to assemble it with the original strapping there anymore. Its done this way to avoid cracks at this position. Why do you think it will look better? Isnt this hidden by the belt more or less anyways?

Hi Steve, tyvm. Yes, you are right. It's a RS. Oh, i just thought this is the section to present the armors. But feedback is always welcome. :-)

Hey Alexander, yes, i do. tyvm. :-)