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usaeatt2

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Everything posted by usaeatt2

  1. Thanks Jared! It's never too late to start learning a new skill and nobody can ever take away your education!! Places like TechShop and Maker Space have classes and equipment to help people learn new skills. They are becoming popular and opening locations in lots of cities. I believe in their philosophy enough to invest heavily in their stock, which helps fund more locations. Get out there and start learning!!! Aaron
  2. There's a common thread here...I've had multiple similar requests for combined shipping. Daily barrel production continues - I've honed the process to the point of getting excellent castings every time. I've got 4 midnight shifts left at work, then I'm off for 3 weeks, so I hope to get ahead of requests. I expect to finish details (exciting stuff I haven't posted yet) on helmet parts over the next several days. I have time reserved on a vacuum forming machine on October 4th, so expect more updates soon!
  3. How about using a hole punch for paper? Punch holes for the ear screws and use double sided tape in the center?
  4. If you have those 9mm rounds, that tells me you got your magazine! I loaded "prototype" rounds in your magazine - from that test, I doubled the amount of fluorescent pigment! I will include (3) 9mm rounds with each barrel. I haven't had any requests for it yet, but I'll go $1 each if bought separately.
  5. Update. I'm in an old school mood today thanks to a trooper PM bringing back some memories of my time in Kuwait with the US Air Force. So, there's Fleetwood Mac on the stereo and I'm demolding more parts... The bottom barrel came out about as close to perfect as my skills allow. Just to show the possibilities here, I drilled and tapped the top barrel, then mounted it in the front end of a Sterling parts set with original screws. Here's a resin 9mm round in the chamber. It inserts to exactly the correct depth and leaves the groove exposed so the extractor can grab it for ejection. It's an iPhone picture so the detail isn't great, but in reality, you can read the lettering on the back of the round - "HPR 9mm LUGER". This shows a bullet (cut from the front of a round) and inserted into the barrel. Anybody know if this would meet the "orange tip" requirement at a convention? The idea is to use small magnets for both ammunition details so they can be easily removed or installed as needed. I decided to focus strictly on the fluorescent orange color since I wasn't happy with any of the faux brass effects. The images don't do it justice - the orange almost glows - it's the same as those orange hunting vests. That's the good stuff. Here's the bad. This is where I sand off the pour spouts and vents. I had to put a small vent at the very front of the barrel because that area REALLY likes to trap an air bubble on EVERY pour. The pressure chamber helped, but it needed a vent to solve the problem. There are some sanding marks from removing the vent, but this is all hidden when installed in the muzzle. Here's what you can see when the barrel is installed. Sorry for the crumby image, but I had to jack up the brightness until I could actually see the barrel part. Here's the area that gets sanded to remove the pour spouts and vents on the back end. I've been thinking about pricing and I'm going to offer these for $25 each. This is popped out of the mold, spouts and vents removed and both ends drilled with a flat bottom end mill. You'll still have to touch up the tip of the barrel with sandpaper if you want. For another $5, I will drill and tap the bolt holes using an original Sterling muzzle as a jig, so $30 drilled and tapped. Getting the holes lined up exactly is finicky and takes a little time to get it right. Barrels will be wrapped in craft paper and bubble wrap, then shipped in a USPS small, flat rate box for $6. I'll likely start shipping in a week or two, going by the order on the interest list. When this happens, I'll move the list from this thread to an actual sales thread. Let me know what you think! Aaron
  6. Derrek, you're a professional. Just admit it. I might add for those reading this thread that Derrek provided me with significant advice on molding and casting since I've never done it before. So, THANKS to Derrek and Phoenix Props, my parts are becoming a reality!
  7. The slot goes all the way through, so Chris has it correct. I think Andy talks a little about what's inside the slot in his research document and it should be easy to find reference pictures there.
  8. HOLY $#@%!!!! I don't always use profanity, but when I do, you better believe it's because this project RULES!!! Dang Jared, those are BETTER than any original guard I've ever seen! Stellar work, man!!
  9. On most of the screen used blasters, the counter pins are removed (I'm sure someone can find an exception to this, but I surely wouldn't want to be running around with those gold pins sticking out the front of my blaster). In other words, in most cases, you only see the plastic connector on the front of the counter, but no pins sticking out. The other reason for desoldering was so I could reroute the coil wires to the hidden batteries on my E-11. Hengstler made coils with several different impedance values to accomodate different real world industrial installations. In this thread, my coil has an impedance of 154 ohms - it is likely one of the 24 VDC versions of the counter (see chart above). A coil with a smaller impedance would allow more current to flow from a 9V battery. As it is, a single 9V can't supply enough current through a 154 ohm resistance to pull in the coil, so I have to use TWO 9V batteries to make the coil activate. If I could find a 12V version of the counter, that coil would have a lower impedance and then I would only need a single 9V to activate the coil. Hope this makes sense. For almost everyone, NONE of this electrical stuff matters because their counters are for display ONLY. On my E-11, I made the Hengstler counter increment every time I pull the trigger, so I needed the coil to actually function. Aaron
  10. Another update. Please bear with me guys; I'm learning as I go and I'm not a professional caster like gazmosis or Dday... I'll keep a running interest list in the first posting and send PM's when parts are ready to go. I made lots of "junk" barrels with pin hole air bubbles before I started developing a process with my pressure chamber, so... Rather than trash them, I figure I'll include a junk barrel with each barrel order so you can experiment with drilling, tapping, etc. Once you're happy with your process, then you can proceed on the good barrel. I figure that sort of reduces the pressure of ruining a perfectly good part... After the barrel is installed in an E-11, you can really only "see" the chamber area. The rest of the barrel is mostly obscured, so I know a few pin holes really aren't a big deal, but that's NOT how my OCD rolls. Recent castings are coming out MUCH improved thanks to installing stacks on the pour spouts and vent holes. I fill the stacks, then pressurize the mold and there's plenty of resin to FEED any remaining air pockets. The end result will be a much better product for the waiting. I would also like to cast an original, unmodified muzzle to include WITH the barrel. This will allow you to tap threads into the pieces and ACTUALLY bolt the barrel into the receiver, just like a real Sterling. In the meantime, here's a picture of an experiment with a pearl metalizer powder carefully brushed into the spring cup mold before pouring. Keep in mind, this is NOT paint. The effect is BONDED to the resin. I'm pretty pleased with the results. I may be able to apply a "clear" pearl metalizer to the barrel for a similar effect without the addition of color. Some may not like this and prefer straight black or gunmetal grey, but at least it demonstrates a possibility. Since this type of blue is a favorite color of mine, I may use this when I cast my own helmet interior pieces. More to come! Aaron
  11. Interest list added at the beginning of the first posting in this thread.
  12. OK, so here is my spring cup mold (pretty much exactly as Derrek described)! And here's the first casting out of the mold (sorry if the pictures are bad - I've got like 3 minutes to do this...) Real spring cup on the left, resin spring cup on the right. And from a different angle: This mold works REALLY well, so now the fun begins with different effects powders and colors!!! Aaron
  13. I've used 3 different types of resin for the spring cup: Smooth-Cast 300, Smooth-Cast 326 and Task 15. No need for slush casting with a two part mold. I felt like a two part mold would make a more accurate part and allows space for an inner spring. Awesome, thanks Derrek. Those containers are only open long enough to pour the resin out, then they get sealed tightly. Already done. See below! Thanks again for all your advice and casting tips. I know it takes time to type that stuff, but it sure did help a newbie.
  14. HOLY COW! You guys humble me with your kind words! I just finished up an E-11 magazine request and started 15 consecutive 12 hour shifts at work. I try to pour resin each day before I go to bed, so I'm starting to accumulate a pile of barrels and parts. Mostly, I'm worried about getting through the resin before it starts going bad. I've also been experimenting with colors and metal powders...which makes for some subtly cool, if not unique barrels. I'll start putting together a list based on the order requests were posted. And I should probably check the rules about selling stuff... Aaron
  15. I've got so much stuff, sometimes I forget I have it unless someone asks for it. Maybe I could get a contributor badge?
  16. Hey Chris, I can hook you up with 1:1 scale paper templates and dimensions... PM sent. You're in England... You should just contact and drive over to Andy's house!!! Aaron
  17. How about using one of the "Star Wars" themed Mimoco Power Tubes? 2600 mAh with an output of 5V DC. Using these inside a helmet was the first thing I thought of when I saw them at the store!
  18. Hello Troopers, The customary "shop music" posting for this thread - I've been enjoying this band for a few weeks now!!! Elder - Spirit at Aphelion Clean two minute intro, then big fuzzy guitars and a complete changeup just after six minutes...recommended volume @ 2 minutes: 11. https://youtu.be/S3VBODnYw0Q For quite awhile, I've been wanting to cast a few functional Sterling parts, but didn't have the skills or the tools. Soooooo, I invested and built a vacuum chamber and a pressure chamber. Now begins a steep learning curve into molding and casting. I'll post updates here and may eventually sell parts if I can manage to pull decent castings. My goal is to offer an accurate, cost effective alternative to various pipes, tubes and cut up markers for E-11 internals. Here's what I've done so far: Homemade vacuum chamber built from a 10 gauge aluminum cooking pot, 3/4" acrylic sheet, refrigeration hose, brass fittings and a Harbor Freight vacuum pump. All parts obtained locally!!! After making a few molds and castings, it became obvious I was going to need a pressure chamber to help eliminate air bubbles from undercuts. This tool was a little easier to "build" since the Harbor Freight pressure paint tank only needs a few modifications to become a pressure chamber. SERIOUS damage can occur if this modification is not done properly. DO NOT defeat the safety release. This pot comes equipped with METRIC fittings. Next came molding a real Sterling barrel. This is the second barrel mold I've made. From the first mold, I learned a lot about pour spout and vent placement. The new mold is a complete revision with a better pour spout, better vents and built in recesses for resin bullets. A real Sterling barrel weighs 290 grams (0.64 pounds). The resin barrel is featherweight by comparison at 54 grams (0.118 pounds). Real barrel at the top, resin barrel at the bottom. Chamber detail. Real barrel on the left, resin barrel with air bubble imperfections on the right. This prompted the pressure chamber investment... I cast resin bullets in fluorescent orange (they supposedly glow under black light - for trooping at the local dance clubs!) and using a metal casting powder which comes close to looking like real brass - still experimenting with different processes here. My idea is to install an orange bullet using a couple of small neodymium magnets in the front of the barrel to meet "orange tip" requirements for public events. A metal cast bullet can be "chambered" in the rear of the barrel using the same method. With magnets, the bullets can be removed or replaced any time. The color is mixed into the resin, so if the bullets are cut or sanded, the color remains. A real 9mm bullet weighs 14 grams, while each resin bullet weighs 2 grams. I'm presently working on an improved bullet mold and I've got blue pearl and silver metal powders to mix with the black onyx resin. I'm hoping the proper mix will give each barrel a SUBTLE metallic iridescence. And finally, I've seen way too many variations of the bolt spring cup or "inner barrel". This part will be cast gun metal grey from a "premium performance urethane resin formulated for very high impact strength, even when cast in thin-wall sections". The hope is to provide an accurate part that will withstand real spring pressure. More to follow - stay tuned!!! Aaron
  19. Hand machined steel receiver, TIG welded Sterling parts set, real 1942 M38 scope with 'horizon corrected' optics, real large eagle Hengstler counter, one piece 1/16" steel scope & counter rail, PlayfulWolfCub metal power cylinders and Gino T-tracks. Finished with satin black/gloss black KG Gun-Kote scratch and impact resistant coating. I just noticed I posted this on 9/11 at 11:00PM AND it's my 911 post. CRAZY!!!
  20. Nice work, Niccolo!!! Why are there not more people posting / following this thread? Inspiring work with the electronics!!! I'll definitely be watching to see how this turns out!
  21. Yep! Good eye. The small capacitors should extend thru the back of the plate and lengthwise, they're a little short. All variations used the same Metalmite capacitors, so that's no excuse. Still, I'd say really good for such a small detail piece. Who's gonna notice? And for $15? I say go for it unless you're a nutter for accuracy.
  22. Hi Josh, the molded ears came out OK, but they lacked detail. There's a better way... Sand off the 4 bumps, then build up a lump of Milliput or some other modeling putty. Shape 3 bumps into the hardened putty with needle files and sandpaper. The result is cleaner and much more defined!!! GOOD LUCK!
  23. Hey Chris, have you looked through the photo gallery in the E-11 Reference? There are a bunch of detail pictures in the gallery showing things you don't commonly see on a typical Sterling disassembly... I think lots of people glossed right over the link to the gallery. It's shadowed by the cool videos above it! Here's a link: Sterling Photo Gallery
  24. I found an aluminum "tool case" at Menard's for about $30 that will hold a Sterling inserted diagonally (from corner to corner). I believe Harbor Freight carries a similar item. It's not as sturdy as a traditional gun case, but $30 is tough to beat. They come with "diced" foam inserts or foam covered dividers. With a little work, I bet somebody could make this into an extremely nice E-11 case. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/tool-storage/tool-chests-boxes/aluminum-tool-box-18x13x6/p-1497968-c-9188.htm Not what I was initially looking for, but I removed the dividers and the Sterling fits tightly against the padded walls and can't move around. Anything else I've found is way more $$ than I want to spend on a hard case...
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