CureMode

I use this... ------ Its around $50, it has a zipper down the front, and the decals come off pretty easily. It is also machine washable, an important feature after you sweat your an impolite person off in it on a hot day. It also has thumb loops and foot straps too keep it in place. It breathes pretty well considering and mines been washed about 4 times with only minor signs of wear.

I use Nylon/Neoprene Diving gloves, they breath a bit better then all rubber ones. The ones I got from NeoSport are all black except for a logo on the back that is covered by the hand plate. They have a nice grip surface and wrist strap that keeps them on really well. They have them for $14.99 on 123scuba.com..... ---------- They also carry a nice Lycra Dive suit for $46, you may want to consider that for heat conditions. The Dive suit is really thin and breaths very well. It zippers up the front, its one piece, and it has foot straps to keep the legs in the boots. It also has only one visable decal on the chest that you can black out with a sharpie, or in my case I used a hairdryer to loosen it and I peel it off cleanly. ---------

I currently have a set up a wireless system, with Radioshack amp and receiver in the chest piece and the transmitter and mic in the helmet. For me the back of the helmet is a good spot for the transmitter, its attached with industrial Velcro and the mic with hot glue. I have an RT-Mod 2 type fiberglass helmet and I am working on getting a AP ABS one. In the new helmet I am planning to use either the Radioshack amp or a WalMart Voice changer, with Stompers Mic tips. ------------

You inspired me to do the same sort of thing for my laptop background.. Here is a small version of my mock up. Please let me know where you found that Death Star photo, the one I used was a rendered one.

Great Interview!!

Can they please use one of these two photos for the profile. These are two of the original 3MP images to use....

BTW: Just got my custom TK plate, now with that and my CureMode plate all I need is my FISD decals...

Here's the Hasbro with the 7th track added..

I would probably do the same with mine for trooping. I would be more than willing to add the 7th track, I agree it would look much more accurate that way, without having to do a crazy an impolite person mod (Yes Lou I mean you!). Let me know on that, and if it may become the new official Elite Hasbro compromise.

It does have the 6 as Lou mentioned with the side opposite the magazine row of holes covered. I could add a 7th track to cover the mag side holes, but I thought it had to be 6. If there is any issue at all with the Hasbro, I could use my resin one as my primary.

Holy crap... you read my mind, already ordered them last week, waiting for them to arrive. Man, I came to the right place to find like minded individuals... I may do the TRU thing in NYC, still waiting on more details from our garrison. I signed up for the NER forum and I have to figure out what to do from there...

I also have a Resin Blaster I would like to make sure can be approved. I troop with the Hasbro because it's lighter, but the resin one is more accurate, please let me know. Also there is a shot of my communicator which I was going to use before I decided to go with the stunt configuration, and some shots of the armor interior. Here are some final additional shots of the armor inside...

Well its been a ton of work, but I think I finally got my armor up to an Elite level. I have done extensive upgrades all around to my FX armor, and purchased a more accurate fiberglass helmet. Thanks so much to everyone on this forum for the advice, guidance, and resources that helped me make these modifications. Here are some of the upgrades, not all apply to Elite status.... Cut the butt plate Raised the Thermal Detonator so its just over the cut Installed an almost complete snap system No rivets on the shoulder straps E-11 Hasbro with mod kit with 6th track and D-ring Covered side gaps with ABS Canvas Belt (Gundamzeppelin's) Replaced ab buttons (VaderDaves's) Replaced holster (SuperTrooper's) Attached holster from behind Replaced drop box straps with white ones Cut the cod piece Attached the belt with snaps and screws Replaced the helmet Green lenses and more accurate tusks added Installed wireless sound amp system Black lycra/rubber gloves Lycra undersuit White boots with the U Additional shots are in the following posts, please let me know if I missed anything and if you guys need any further details..

Has anyone used wax (turtle wax) to shine up painted helmets? Just wondering because I have a few rub spots on mine and I am looking for a way to cover them up without repainting or using a gloss coat. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Are the tube stripes Black?? I thought it was well established by now that they were blue.

Thanks for the feedback, just ordered a wireless tie clip type Mic. If that works it will be even better since I will not have a wire from the helmet to the speaker if I put it in my chest armor.

I just got the Radio Shack mini amp, but it doesn't appear to work with an unamplified Mic (PC headset with a mic). I tried it with an MP3 player and it was pretty good. What type of Mic can be used with it and what model do you use?

I was just wondering if anyone has used this Radio Shack Amp for their voice amplification.. ----- It looks pretty good and its only $18.19. I already have a good mic to use with it, and it only takes one 9V. Currently I am using a Wal-Mart voice changer I modified to fit in my existing FX helmet. I am getting a new fiberglass one that is much smaller and I would prefer not to mess with trying to fit everything in it. I was either going to use a spare Wal-mart one I have, a Newton, or this thing under my chest piece. Any feedback from anyone who has used this or the Newton would be appreciated.

I am putting the finishing touches on mine as well. My goal is the beginning of August, and I think I'll make it.

Where can you buy sheets of white ABS that may match an FX kit? I was looking to seal up my side gap. I was going to use my ABS belt when I switch to canvas, but one big sheet would be much better. Please let me know.

Thanks so much for the suggestion, I just cut the Butt plate, added snaps and filled the holes. I used some fine shavings with acetone and it made a putty like material I was able to stick in the holes. I then glued on a small piece of ABS from the back to keep it in place. The bottom ones are barely visible, and the top ones will be covered by the belt. I also just replaced my velcro on the cod piece with snaps as well. Here are some shots, I made a ton of extra snap holders to hold my side gap plates which I plan to make out of the belt once I replace it with canvas. Do you think 2 horizontal abs belt pieces would be OK? There would be a horizontal seam, but I think it would be better then the white pleather like material I am using. I could use any advice anyone has on attaching the belt and holster as well. I am planning to attach the gun belt from behind with snaps and rivet the snap male part to the belt. Any feedback or direction would be appreciated, these last few steps should be me in range of Elite status once I get my new helmet and E-11. ----------

I have a set of FX armor and I am about to replace my ABS belt with a Canvas one. Unfortunately I had drilled 4 holes in the back plate to secure the belt and canister with 4 bolts. Worked great, but 2 of the holes are below the cut area in the butt plate. What's a good method of sealing the holes so that when I move the belt up they would not be too visible?

Please add me to 501st Stormtrooper status... TK6744 http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember...cfm?userID=9067