Haribon72

I worked on NE and AM2.0 at the same time last season. NE is a lot thicker plastic than AM. There's also a 5mm difference between them as far as chest and back plates goes.

Speaking of making life easier (for me).... Any tutorial on making "BIGGER" cloth gaskets for plus size troopers? I have a friend that wants to know.

Hello AJ, the appearance of your sniper knee is good. You can also use a heat gun and bend the inside armor towards the sniper knee so that you can get more cement action to hold it down. Thank you again for sharing the HD video on your walk tests. Very informative to help us out from afar.

I'm late to the announcement. But wanted to thank Steve for his awesomeness and kind attention to the DO program. I'm sure we'll message you from time to time for your wisdom!

Hi Christina, the length is 9.5 inches. Width is 3/4 inches for each strap.

Spring sale on tools are coming soon Jason!

EIB Approved today! Congrats Jay!!! Adding his EIB application and approval info. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36091-tk-11654-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-mtk543/

EIB patches are waiting to be sewn onto your jacket. Congrats and we'll done on your EIB build.

Thanks Tim! I bought like a 1,000 of them back in October for all these team builds. Ugh.....

Hello Dave, the other garrison members and Omar worked on the helmet and lense instalation and forgot to take pics. They fitted the lenses, custom cut to size, drilled the holes and used the same screws that hold the ears to hold the lenses. S<br> That's what I remembered.

I know my garrison members are laughing at me because I didn't use my belt sander. Hey guys! It's freakin cold outside and my wife doesn't want any noise after 10:00PM. And you all know my garage is a mess!

Okay... we're done for tonight. We will continue again soon! Here's the finished look for now.

After you get your desired finish, go ahead and polish it out. You can also use this opportunity to deburr the edges. Sorry no pics of deburr.

Sanding technique. If you don't have a belt sander, here's a trick. Get some plumber's tape (available at any hardware store). I'm using Oatey Abrasion Mesh Tape. Make yourself a belt sander on your cutting board. You will be using this back and forth method to get a smooth edge on your ABS. Cut about a foot of mesh, tape it down, and go for it.

Cut.... cut......cut... ATA shoulder bridges arrived curved - so the offset tin ships are perfect for this task. Some armor makers have shoulder bridges that are flat - utility knife, xacto knife, or regular tin snips. Almost done.

Here's how I remove the edges. Use a long flexible ruler and mark it with a pencil. I'm leaving 3-4mm between the desired edge and bridge bumps. Then I will using my offset tin snips to cut. Its okay if you're lines aren't perfectly straight. We'll fix that in the sanding technique below.

This how I work the ends of shoulder bridges. Use the end of your table and tape the bridge down. We are going to make some clean cuts.

Tonight, we will be working on the shoulder bridges. Mark, cut, snap, repeat. I remove the access plastic first then removing down to the millimeters. First timers - Start with a gentle score then go back with about eight slices to get the feel of cutting plastic. Take your time until the plastic separates and then you can snap it off.

Our tools of success. MaxiFlex protection gloves Number Two Pencil Bendable stainless steel ruler with cork backing (not pictured) Wiss M3 tin ships (for straight cuts) Wiss M1 off set tin snips (for angle and close quarter cuts) Irwin utility knife I use these tools because they are the best to cut ABS plastics. This is personal preference only. I also use them at work.

EIB Approved on October 23rd, 2015. Adding his application and approval info. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33381-tk-70714-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-am20-504/ Sorry for the long delay. Five months off from this team build and we have re-grouped for the Centurion application. We reviewed the DO's instructions and ready to begin work. We have ordered replacement chest plate, back plate, and shoulder bridges from ATA. We took ATA's recommendations to ensure we eliminated the overlap problem for Kris.

I had a question last year about cement. I don't like E6000 because of the smell...period. E6000 is widely used here, but the odor is too powerful for our household. Its made specifically for jewelry making using small daps. I use Weld On because this stuff is low VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) and gives an extremely strong bond for ABS. After it dries, it doesn't have that foul order smell. After two hours, you can remove the clamps / magnets from your armor and check the bond. It's best to let the cement set overnight (recommended). For the sake of our team builds, this has proven very useful. This is a personal preference only and my contribution to the armor making world. First timers, please use small amounts first to prevent residue. If you end up with residue after it dries, simply scrap off the dried cement using an xacto knife or piece of ABS scrap. Here's the bottle I use for those that are interested. Weld On 771 ABS. Available on Amazon.com only. I could not find this at any local hardware store in our city.

Grab some coffee stir sticks from your local Starbucks or coffee house. They make a great tool to help apply the cement to your work. Tape it down for the night. Allow to set overnight. Later in the week, we will weather down the blaster with fellow garrison member "Drumstrooper". In addition, we will add the scope decals from Trooperbay.

Next, we will slice off the debris and sand the bottom of the resin cast and the cut area of the blaster rail. We want to make sure we have a good adhere between the scope and rail area. I will be using Weld On 771 ABS cement (this is available on Amazon.com only).

Time to remove the ANH scope. I'm using a Lenox close quarter hack saw to remove it.

Congrats to the 2016 staff! It's going to be a productive and fun year!