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Pencap510

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Posts posted by Pencap510

  1. Always good to see another joining the TFA journey!! To answer your question- they all come with the lines mentioned - true mod is to make them much sharper. It's not required (to my knowledge, but it does add accuracy.

     

    Also highly recommend a dremel for trimming. It will save those fingers for sure- and you'll need them later :)

    • Like 1
  2. Not a ton to report, but had a little time today as the kids played outside. so here are a few slight progress pics as I worked to complete assembly:

     

    After some sanding I still have some work to do in the back plate- there are several holes that need be filled from my devcon gap filling. Not happy with that, but very fixable. Just more work :)

     

    u3k4vrql.jpg

    vFwo3bdl.jpg

     

    Forearms look pretty darn solid, like the resin castes wrist boxes:

    vQE4wzIl.jpg

    8rUXW4vl.jpg

     

    TD assembly went pretty smooth. You may ask why I cut out the hole in the back play, this makes it very easy to get inside the TD for extra gluing on a piece that has very few contact points.

     

    07exInKl.jpg

     

    After a little superglue just to hold the positioning

     

    6oGoPzhl.jpg

     

    Look at all this glorious room!

    wMfy3wol.jpg

     

    After some epoxy putty your left with this-

     

    6DZ12Hjl.jpg

    O38sR91l.jpg

    t4l5geql.jpg

     

    Same for the shin box:

    SPxsuPn.jpg

    oyHrYiK.jpg

     

    Good part of the putty- it's strong as nails, downside... It takes a while to set so you can sand, which is where I'm at :)

  3. Can't take credit on the idea, but it does seem to be working VERY WELL so far. Torment brought the idea to me and we rolled with it. I asked him, and he got the resin kit at a local supplier in Orlando called Reynolds Advanced Materials. Here is a sample of how it works.. We superglue the poured resin filler into the plastic part..(pictured above) then once happy with the way the plastic part fits the armor-

    Drill holes in armor- superglue outside of resin so it can adhere to the armor part - and drill in 1/2 inch screws in from the back for the extra security.

     

    t1N0A0jl.jpg

     

    aLYF2qll.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. So again, with this thread not being perfectly documented, my hope is that someone building this kit will pick up an idea or two that truly helps them along.. or maybe sees a picture from a different angle that helps out. Today I accomplished a TON on my build. Having a tag team partner has been awesome as we go through this build - and were really seeing progress.

     

    List of things done today:

     

    Finished assembly of most all pieces

    Poured Resin into ab boxes, forearm boxes and belt boxes for easier attachment (will explain in a minute)

    Filled all gaps with plastic welder and sanded.. sanded .. SANDED.. did i mention that we SANDED stuff today?!?

    built TD ..

     

    Here is some pics.

     

    So the thought behind using the resin in the ab boxes (forgive me if this is repetition of every other build) is to give stability and security to the box attachment to the ab. By pouring the resin in, I can now secure the boxes to the ab section with small screws to ensure they don't come unglued during a troop and pop off. 

     

    Mixing the resin

    hS5ZpFXl.jpg

     

     

    Poured and just starting to flower:

    ATo8or6l.jpg

     

    Here is the forearm boxes after pour.. this will be a much nicer area to glue versus the plastic box provided.

    2JT46Hwl.jpg

     

    Now ready for some next steps~

    35FflwKl.jpg

     

    The thermal detonator is a pain in the butt, and don't let anyone else convince you other wise. Essentially.. rough tape it together. Super glue small points to hold it then go back with plastic welder to ensure proper bond. We then filled the inside with a light layer of resin for some added reinforcement and mass. Sanding this was a true PAIN

    W4Ahrn8l.jpg  oortV7il.jpg  JhiHtuol.jpg  gL6D5vll.jpg  MqFX4owl.jpg

     

    Now for some random pics of plastic welding.. and sanding... sanding.. SANDING :)

     

    R3wfSlRl.jpg

     

    yip3X45l.jpg

     

    35Tjgj5l.jpg

     

    R6LaSXCl.jpg

     

    A2DTGQal.jpg

     

    QF8pr77l.jpg

     

    Next up.. securing ab boxes.. Pics to come :)

     

    :smiley-sw013:  :salute:

    • Like 2
  5. Well, with all the amazing threads out there- I don't think my build will be the documented tutorial that I thought it might. But I'm still trucking along. Been a slow few weeks between family birthdays, football season kicking off, traveling for work, and scratch building an ABS baymax costume for my sons Halloween get up.

     

    Biceps IMO are pretty decent, ready for filler and sanding:

     

    PzPQ8XHl.jpg

    eDSJ9pal.jpg

     

    Tonight I assembled a few more simple things to keep progress moving. (Haven't gathered the courage yet to tackle TD or yolk/back plate)

     

    Shins:

     

    ckpYrtal.jpg

    zWBwCtGl.jpg

     

    Shoulders:

    4uLhN1Ql.jpg

    Someone said CLAMPS? Lol

    bIIZadKl.jpg

     

    More to come :)

  6. So learning lesson at hand. I tried a generic harbor freight plastic epoxy for my forearms and E6000 for the top panel. I knew the panel would need to have a little extra flexibility leaving a portion of the non-tab side unglued half way down.

     

    After more than enough time for it to cure- when I started toying with it I heard cracking. It was very clear that it cured very brittle and wouldn't hold. So I separated them.

     

    KoUQ3Ail.jpg

    JlGlQw9l.jpg

     

    I've not only ordered devcon- which I should have done from the start, but I re secured the forearms with E 6000 for the time being. I'm still curious as to why it was so brittle.. Cheap epoxy? Maybe I did t mix it enough ? Who knows. Though progress was slowed a little I'm back on track.

     

    6ih1SgZl.jpg

  7. Being in Florida - the chemical gloves I used for approval were just to hot. I started using these "gorilla gloves" and they are awesome.. Very inexpensive - have good grip for carrying blaster and are designed to a born sweat/moisture. They can be purchase most anywhere -

     

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grease-Monkey-Coated-Gripping-Glove-Medium-25052-030/202709678?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cBase&gclid=CK_sj_uo78cCFUQSHwodkbgAug&gclsrc=aw.ds

  8. So I dug back in a little tonight. Mainly to check for "misses" in trimming and sanding, and am glad to report that we did a pretty clean job. I won't put up detailed pics of any one piece, unless you'd like to see something specific- but here is what I ended up with:

     

    okluSZGl.jpg

    P9oO3h7l.jpg?1

    yn771lsl.jpg?1

    xJZQbIsl.jpg

    Ut4VWTPl.jpg?1

     

    To get a little something done tonight I cut my cover strips and started assembly on my forearms. Knowing after the glue cures, gap filling with abs paste and bondo there would be lots of interim sanding- I wasn't to concerned about a little excess glue here and there. Cleaned up as much as I could, but was ultimately more concerned about positioning.

     

    NDbhQD7l.jpg

    rTlaTBql.jpg

     

    I do have one question- with these side pieces applied it seems the gap for the flat panel is to wide. Is this just a flex until it fits thing- or are my curves on the sides not correct? There seems to be a lot of flexibility- but I'm not applying the top panel till tomorrow after these have sat over night

     

    9a0IWEel.jpg

  9. Love seeing a good set of RS applied for centurion- fits like a glove. Also same comment about the right side and seeing if you can get that gap under control-- also notice (and I don't know if this will affect application-- I don't think it will) but there are several areas that could use a little sanding. It might just be the pictures, but the neck line, butt plate and wrist openings look rather rough.

  10. So while this next post won't include a bunch of detailed pictures of trim marks, and where cuts were made, it will serve as documentation for one heck of a long day. About 9:30 am this morning work began in my outside workshop and didn't wind down till about 8:30 pm this evening. Joined by legion mate "torment" - we tackled the impossible ---In 1 DAY! We completed trimming and sanding on both of our kits.. From the minimal work done on mine- to him not evening having started his, we accomplished a lot.

     

    Here are some pics from today. I'll post the final armor pics soon- but right now I can't look at it anymore:

     

    uaMCRku.jpg

     

    Oh yes- dremmel, cutting wheel, belt sander, and mouse sander. NEEDED TOOLS for this build.. I don't think I touched my scissors or snips today.

     

    a70K5C3.jpg

     

    ROeJVHFl.jpg

     

    COMPLETE PLASTIC CARNAGE!

    c1a5Eh0l.jpg

     

    Then after some typical Florida rain- we moved the party inside the garage, and finished up. Exhausted and victorious- we called it a day.

     

    uHFF1CWl.jpg

     

    I'll post up some finished armor pics tomorrow- till then, signing off :)

    • Like 1
  11. So while out of town for the week with work- my wife writes me and says she has a surprise for when I get home. - nothing gets you more motivated to get home and continue trimming than this picture --

     

    5qqINUNm.jpg

     

    And yall- thought I was taking this thread another direction!! Lol

     

    eLw0aY1l.jpg

    • Like 1
  12. Quick question- y r people splittin the kidneyplate?<br>

    Is it for making it easier to suit up or is there fracture points?<br>

    Thanx in advance.

    Good question- there is a seam build into the piece that is completely covered by the TD when being worn. For me (5'-11" , 180lbs- 34" waist) the kidney and ab plate just make it around me but would be uncomfortable to troop in- if I split it- create a gap that seals with Velcro it will make suiting up and trooping much more comfortable- or even possible for some depending on size: here's the seam -- I haven't split it yet

     

    9XskQZum.jpg

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