boomshakra
-
Posts
425 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by boomshakra
-
-
Greetings all! My Doopys E-11 kit build has been fun so far and I couldn’t have done it without all the information posted by those who have traversed the ‘resin-brick-road’ before me! I haven’t posted until now because my archaic desktop PC does not have a card reader, so it has taken me this long to finally be able to upload my progress. Unfortunately, some of the detail pix are a bit blurry so I will have to provide a written description of some of the challenges I have endured.
Upon opening the box it was all I could do to restrain myself from bathing the parts in E6000 and slapping it all together at once. Patience is something I have learned over the past couple of days. That, and that my dremel skills (or lack thereof) leave a lot to be desired
-
Looking good - are you forgoing the bayonet lug? What are you going to use for gap-filling - not familiar with "green stuff" and when I was at Hobby Lobby I couldn't find any resin putty (but didn't look too hard and they were understaffed - I was lucky to get the spray paint I was looking for).
-
After I posted I got to thinking about it & came up with something close to what you have - I'll post pictures tomorrow if I get time to work on it (and start my own thread so I don't hijack yours
). Keep up the good work - I'll be following along right behind you -
Seeing as you are in Lubbock, that would explain your interest in Sandtrooper armor. You wouldn't have to weather it, just leave it outside during one of ya'll's dust storms!
J/k - grew up in West Texas and my parents are Red Raiders! Welcome aboard!
-
Yeah, I was thinking that the ring that comes with the Doopys would be sufficient for certification on both levels. What diameter screw rod did you use? How did you get the holes to line up between the grip and tube? That is the part I am nervous about - having them misaligned and all cattywompus. If that was the case I guess just gluing it w/o the rods would work...but, like you I like the thought of a stronger connection. Looking forward to your next update!
-
I have found two on craigslist - $10 for each. Picking one up tomorrow, the other one is down the road in SA...might have the in-laws pick that one up if the seller won't ship to me. Of course I found the 2nd one AFTER I ordered my Doopys upgrade kit...so I will have to order another one & it will arrive afterwards. I have my full Doopys that I am going to get started on this weekend, so I have plenty to do while I wait - armor is over a month away to ship.
Two other sources I would look into are Goodwill and garage sales - kids grow out of/break stuff and it sometimes makes it to those places instead of the trash can...
-
Also Doopydoo's ship to the US. They do a very nice resin DLT19.
I thought they didn't ship to US because shipping costs were prohibitive/cost as much as DLT-19? Did this change recently?
-
It looks like you are using the metal ring supplied with the kit - does that fulfill the EIB/Centurion blaster requirement?
Also, is your endcap like mine, i.e. it does not have the 'tabs' to rotate & lock onto the tube? I would think that if you put a spring in there you'd want more than glue holding it on (to counter the compressed spring). Are you just going to glue it or do you have another method in mind?
-
I got my Doopys today - I like your idea of pinning/drilling, so I'll be keeping up with your thread (and posting pix of mine as it progresses).
-
That had better not be my helmet, Rob!
-
I would worry more about sweating on the lenses and not being able to wipe them. Has anyone tried a mounting bracket behind the green lens for a pair of 'cheap' glasses (removing the arms) so that they are 'always' there?
-
I was also considering having a Hasbro (or 2...never know when you'll need a backup) for trooping - of course that means ordering from Doopys again...which is fine, but the long wait for the kit to ship to the US is not much fun
-
Did anyone else read the title as "calves turning me on"? No? No one? Crap.. I need help
someone has been 'adjusting their sniper plate' a little too much
-
I echo all of the above sentiments: the forum is informational, helpful, encouraging and friendly. Pretty much any and all questions are answered by numerous sources in a very speedy fashion, and the ideas shared spark individual creativity as well. If something hasn't been tried, give it a go - share it & get (constructive - can't emphasize that enough) feedback. There is always something new, different & exciting to be found here.
-
There's no agreed 'screen accurate' thickness or width for the scope rail but i would say 1/16" is spot on.
Cool - it feels a little flimsy, but I realize I won't be using the entire 3' length (that would be for my DLT-19
). -
Well that depends - why would you prefer your counter sat further away from your scope?
I didn't really have a reason...it just looked right when I was picking out the materials. Will have to see what it looks like holding the parts together when I get my kit. I didn't know if anyone else had set theirs up that way.
Is 1/16" too thin for the rail?
-
I know this has been covered in other threads, but I can't seem to find what width aluminum bar is used - 1/16" or 1/8"? I bought 1/16" (by3/4") today and it seems flimsy - like the weight of the doopys scope/hengstler will sag. I also bought a pre-bent "L" for lack of better description, 1/16"x1". My thought was that having a wider counter holder would have it away from the scope a bit more - is that ok/canon? Haven't done anything with them - sitting on my bench waiting for my doopys delivery. Any input is welcomed!
-
Looking good - how much did you have to trim off the armor before you started fitting it?
so, I am guessing that with the suspender system the back/chest won't be connected to the kidney/abs?
-
Thanks, Rick!
Let me know how the ab/cod wtih elastic works out - Still have over a month until I get my armor, so I will be interested to hear how 'field testing' goes for your RT-MOD.
-
Absolutely. That is a deliberate change while we develop the TK Information Post - it's still there but first stop is the forums now. At least for a little while
Cool - thanks for the clarification - look forward to seeing what the new TK Info Post looks like!
-
I noticed that when I navigate to www.whitearmor.net it takes me immediately to the Forums instead of the 'splash' page. I was not logged in at the time.
-
Great work so far - my suit is still over a month or so away but I am following your progress closely!
-
Mine should be here tomorrow - good luck with yours!
-
Hey Eric - instead of posting a new thread, I thought I'd ask you directly since you built the same armor I will be building. What size did you cut your webbing down to for snap plates? I have a pretty long wait ahead of me, so I plan on using it to do all of the prep I can before the big brown box gets here. Also, I picked up here & there that getting glue on the metal part of the snap is not a good idea - where did you glue on the webbing to avoid this?
One last question - how many snap plates should I make ahead of time? I was thinking sets of 3 for each side of the ab & kidney plate, 3 on the top of the butt & crotch, 3 on the bottom of chest & back with 2 on each at the top of those pieces to connect them over the shoulder, plus the ones that will go down each arm and one on each thigh for garters...I came up with 47, but am thinking more wouldn't be a bad idea.
thanks to any & all who weigh in on this
Jason
boomshakra's Doopy E-11 build
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
The first thing I did was drill out the muzzle to accommodate the hex bolts. Here I learned a) that the bolt heads were a little large for the muzzle, and
pilot holes are helpful before drilling with larger drill bits. The pix are too blurry from a close-up to post, but suffice it to say while I did get the oversized bolts put in place, the cost was ‘chipping’ around the muzzle cut-outs – which I just sanded down, glued the bolt heads and went on my merry way.
Next up was gluing the trigger & trigger guard to the grip – no drama or excitement here (thankfully).
I have been following bigironvault’s build and his use of pins to hold larger pieces to the tube more securely. While I thought I was aligning the pins correctly, upon inserting the grip to the tube I found that I was a bit off center…but not enough to be really noticeable unless you are looking down the tube at the underside of my E-11, something I doubt will happen on any troops. Repeating the process with the magazine produced even worse results, and at that time I abandoned the process and just used E6000. If anything falls off, I’ll just glue it back on