pandatrooper
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Posts posted by pandatrooper
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Tried tested and proven on 5 of my builds.
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Contact the seller directly for pricing. A complete RT mod is far more accurate and less work for Eib than AM.
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Sorry I couldnt make it this year, I've made the trip down the last 2 previous years. looks like you guys had a good time! I'll be attending next year for sure!
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If you want to be really close in color, TMC is very close, RT comes second slightly bigger I believe) and ATA comes third as the plastic is slightly more cream colored.
AM has a warm tone to it. AP is almost a cool white.
Another great match thats cost effective - get an ATA styrene kit and paint it. Use warm beige underneath and top coat with 2 layers of Krylon white (I'll track down the exact color for you, I painted a bunch of styrene chips to try and match the color). I have 2 TKs in my squad that painted their lids and they both match well.
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Congrats Woodchuck!!
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You do not want to bring a blaster across and back unless youre willing to lose it. Best case: borrow a blaster to use during the troop. Canada is not very flexible with replicas and such.
Worst case, you get your blaster seized and your name ends up on Canada customs black list. Every package you will ever mail or receive will be opened abd inspected and the full taxes and service charges will be billed to you. Trust me, you don't want to go there.
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I don't use any adhesive for the neck trim. I simply place the end on, and carefully work the trim following the form of the neck opening, pushing it into every nook and cranny so as to not have any slack. When I get to the other end, I trim it about 3/8" longer than it needs to be and the tension holds it in place.
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The Rom FX V3 / revo has pitch control, you can lower the tone of your voice among other controls.
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Very sad to hear this.
His influence on me as a child and adult were huge. I don't think I would have gone into art without his inspiration. He will be greatly missed.
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I would suggest ATA instead. I'm 5 foot 8 inches and about 145 lbs and ATA fits perfect. I built an AM to fit a slimmer build, but it's a lot more work than trimming a kit that's already properly sized.
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Also don't let it contact any vinyl materials. Vinyl can still leach off chemicals and cause reactions to plastic. I left some armor in a vinyl hocky bag and the corners of the armor that contacted the vinyl would turn yellow after only a week or two in storage.
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Welcome fellow local!
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Welcome fellow canuck!
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Thank you Paul for everything that you have done. Your efforts often go unrecognized and you have been able to get through all the tough times. Its been a honor to work with you and I hope we get to do it again some day!
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When you remove paint you need to make sure no residue or solvent or alcohol is left before recoating it.
I prefer to wash the surface again with detergent to make sure no oil based liquid is left and let it dry very well. If using Humbrols, as stated you need to mix it very thoroughly and scrape the tin. I also find it takes much longer to dry. Make sure you are letting the helmet dry in the right temperature and humidity.
I prefer to paint the black shaped outlines first, let it cure for a day or two before filling with grey. Check out my ATA ABS helmet build thread. I personally prefer Testors Model master as I like the consistency more but to each their own.
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The only reason I split mine was in case I wanted to upgrade the electronics (which I never ended up doing as I used the planned Hyperfirm upgrade in my T-21 instead).
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Keep in mind that while this sounds like a good idea / funny, commercial places of business dont like people walking into their stores with their faces covered. its a security issue even for some official troops and most garrisons request permission first.
Remember when there were those masked Vader robberies last year? People dont forget those. Also remember that what you do in costume especially a TK represents the 501st legion whether its an official troop or not and your actions reflect those of a group.
Just my feedback.
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Do not buy from Cushmann. Plenty of people have been ripped off.
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Looks awesome! Can't wait to see some casts from it!
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Its a good base. here's my suggestions:
- make the thighs smaller / more fitted and shorter if possible
- the calves aren't assembled properly (the overlap is on the wrong side), so you have the armor pieces on the wrong legs
- if you can, make the torso smaller / more fitted
- raise the back
- trim the sides of the chest (if you can, reshape the bottom edge)
- the biceps look a bit big for your arms?
Just my 2 cents. AM kits require more work than other sometimes if you want them to look proper.
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Click on the tutorials button at the top menu. It will bring you to the imperial reception center tutorials. As stated, most kits can be built in a similar fashion.
Heres my ATA TD build for reference.
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Split the difference and cut it like this. Cut the formed ridge off the back and use a cover strip to hide the seam instead. Trim a little off at a time and test fit it. The bottom will line up better this way.
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Welcome! Where are you based?
Old FX renovation
in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Posted
I would lower the biceps and resize them smaller. Cut the butt plate, run some elastics at the base of the shoulder bells around the bicep.
Yes, the chest is cut too much. I dont think theres enough plastic for a return edge. If he wants my AM chest (the one in my AM thread, still mint with all the trimming and return edges done to it) I will offer it to him for free, just cover the shipping.
Feel free to pm me.