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Ive been fighting these ejection tabs for a while,,, finally got the form shape right and the radius correct...One of the last body tube problems..Im going to get these brazed to test the process. If all goes well i can make alot of them ..................... (I know ive layed it on the wrong side im just showing how it seats on the part)

Thanks Germain! 1. Semi gloss black base coat and light weathering with silver guilding wax (like Rub and Buff). Seal with clear coat. This will show through the "openings' of the wrinkle layer later. 2. Brush and dab toothpaste on areas where you want the base layer to show through. Allow to dry. 3. Spray a light but thorough coat of wrinkle paint. I use VHT Wrinkle Plus. Allow 48 hours to dry. 4. Use a dishwashing scrub and remove the toothpaste under running water. Now your blaster smells fresh and minty! That's it!

Great find on the rpf ,,,, this will be the start of my rotj blaster bluild

Name: Sam Gilbert 501st TKID: 31892 FISD name: Extra_Small_Sam Garrison: Knightfall VIC Armour: AP Blaster: TDK Props Let me know if you need more or anything needs to be fixed. Thanks in advance guys! Much appreciated Sam

That's the problem with Anovos. They lie from the top and it filters through the company. I believe them that when they told me my items were being packed, they were told this by management, and believed it to be true. Anyway, fingers crossed that the FOTK kits are released on time, by September 22nd.

TRIGGER MECHANISM Drill a hole through the left face of the grip frame and just enough on the opposite wall to mark the trigger pivot point. Drill a hole here for the spring to sit in. Grind two slots leading to the trigger pivot point for the pin to slide down during installation. Drill a recess in the back of the trigger and insert a toothpick to engage the spring. This is fixed with epoxy. I posted a video on Facebook demonstrating the working trigger. Hopefully you can view this: http://bit.ly/2wPKsHa Putty added to the top of the trigger pin slot to lock it down. Cover up the hole on the grip frame.

This morning I started on the power cylinders. I used parts from Phoenix props, Tino kits and metalmite cylinders from Fieldmarshall. i sanded the bottom flush, trimmed off the resin screws and dremelled the cylinders out. I removed the center pieces the rear section of Phoenix props kit. Leaving only the "fuses" I took the red wire from Tjays kit and placed between the fuses. Drilled small holes in the fuse to have a spot to glue the wire. I added a little solder to the red wire. Here is a pic next to Fieldmarshalls power cylinder. now I just need to paint

Made it home from the hardware store with pipes of various sizes to use as cookie cutters to make circle shapes. I used this technique to make the ab buttons. These are from 4mm foam and I used the Omni-stick to glue them down. Using the contact cement with a brush is too hard on these little pieces. They just get stuck to the brush. Next piece to make is the kidney plate. This is really straightforward. Since I had the ab and chest and back positioned, I knew the bottom of the kidney needed to align with the bottom of the ab and the top of the kidney needed to align with the back plate above. I sketched it out marking the key points including the raised panel and the kidney notches. Cut this out of 6mm foam. The raised detail in the center is from 4mm foam. I decided to try a trick I learned from watching Evil Ted videos. Put the contact cement in a squeeze bottle. This makes it much easier to control the placement and you don't have to leave the lid off the can thus minimizing vapors. We'll see in the morning....hopefully the cap doesn't glue itself to the bottle. After some bending with the heat gun on 450 F, here are what the pieces look like. Next I made some 1" wide Velcro straps using the same technique mentioned above. Hot glue the Velcro to the elastic strap, then hot glue the straps to the foam. Here's how the torso is coming along. Pretty well I think. I just need to make the final adjustments to the ab & kidney ends once my son returns and I can try this on him. Next thing to tackle will be shins...and we all know how much fun those are to assemble. Let's see how hard they are to build out of foam!

I really want to recreate this thing,,, it damn sexxy ... ill get to it next year. need to find all the greeblies for it

Completed a few m19 scope with full light ports

We generally encourage builders to maintain canon size correct cover strip widths on the front of the armor being that's what is recognized by fans most of the time. 15mm for the arms, 20mm for the legs (except for the calves 25mm). Uniformity is key however, as Paul mentioned this doesn't work for everyone, but it is the goal to shoot for. That being said, if you could pull of maybe 20mm at the front of the arms (in all areas) and varied sizes on the back you should be fine.