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Posted

Hey All,

 

I'm looking to fulfill a childhood desire of having a full stormtrooper costume. I've been an avid 3D printer for the last ~ 1.5 years, putting over 4.5k hours on my first printer (Bambu P1s), but I have never done a costume. I recently purchased an Bambu H2C and a P2S. The plan is to do this mostly on the P2S.

I original posted about this on Reddit, and I was going to start printing out Galactic Armory's Rogue One file...but when I started resizing one of the calf pieces, I quickly saw the thickness went up to about 4.5mm which seemed too thick to me. Having done some research, I know that sizing the armor is critically important.

I was recommended by @Platinum Lex, to start a build thread here. Thanks Platinum Lex for being so friendly and helpful! I must note, as I've read this more than once, the serious enthusiasts have recommended not to print a Stormtrooper costume, I think the recommendation has been to get an armor set. It seems to be that the printed files are not easily certified to be 501st legal.

** I must state that I don't think my intention is to get this costume certified. My intention is to create a costume that looks good and works well, the main goal of doing it myself with printers I already have. I'm a little worried that the "post production" work will be hard and something I won't love...but let's see what happens. If I can make something that looks decent, I think it will all be worth it. And never say never I guess...having it be able to be certified might not be a bad thing...

So here's where I'm at...  I purchased Akira's 3D file as it seems to be highly regarded, more so than the Galactic Armory it seems. I purchased 5 rolls of Kingroon ABS grey to start out with...I'm guessing this will take 10-15 rolls and after some research, I went with ABS because it seems to be the easiest for post production (sanding), is durable and heat resistant. I am going to use a .6mm nozzle to save time printing.  I am a Kickstarter backer of GA's form fitting software but I don't think they will have anything usable to use for this build as my goal is to have this ready for this Halloween... I have printed out some calipers and will use that to guide the scaling of the files.

Please comment and ask me any questions. I will definitely be needing help as I go along... 

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Posted

Hey Pete, congrats on starting your first build thread. I know the recommendation is always to buy a kit, but a 3D printed kit is still certifiable, especially with all the feedback you're going to get from a lot of amazing people in this community.

Hope to see your next update.

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Posted

Hello and welcome looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

Jason has a nice build thread, you can also find a lot of more accurate files for some parts in our 3D files area

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/202-3d-file-depository/ 

One of the big things is print lines, you need to remove these for 501st approval.

 

Many use Nico's helmet files https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/784808040/rogue-one-stormtroopersolo-mimban

 

Greg has been doing A LOT of accuracy updates to the files, you can request a copy with proof of purchase of Nico's files.

Updated files

 TKModder421 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/53406-modifying-the-nico-helmet/ 

 

Good luck with the build :duim:

 

 

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Posted

Thank you both for your replies...definitely going to go with the Nico helmet I think...probably unlike most, I'll save the helmet towards the last part...

I think there are mods to some of the Akira armor pieces making them more certifiable?!

Yea, going to print out the pieces using a .6mm nozzle and not worry about the layer lines as I plan to post process everything...seems some use resin while others use some type of "bondo" to fill in layer lines?! Not sure, need to figure that out...initialy thought was to start printing a lot of the armor while I get up to speed on the post processing procedures, where the most work I understand will be needed....

Posted

Welcome to the FISD! 3D-printed armor can definitely be a bit cumbersome, but it is entirely doable with enough patience and effort. Akira’s files are great, and while you might encounter a few minor hiccups with certain parts, those have been deeply detailed and troubleshoot right here on the forums. I haven’t personally heard of any mods to Akira’s files yet, so I’m curious to see what you found—I wouldn’t be surprised at all if they exist!
 

When it comes to smoothing out your pieces, UV resin is an excellent approach because it coats well and sands down pretty easily. A lot of us also rely heavily on spot putty, specifically the 3M or Bondo brands. Other builders have found plenty of success with plastic wood filler from the local home improvement store, too. I’ve tried both and personally had better odds with the spot putty, but it really comes down to individual preference.

 

As others have already mentioned, Nico’s helmet files are pretty much the community gold standard, especially when you pair them with Greg’s mods. The helmet is easily the most time-intensive part of the entire build, so it makes total sense that you're saving the best for last. Doing it this way gives you a great opportunity to practice various techniques on the rest of the armor first so you can figure out what you like and dislike before tackling the bucket.

 

With Akira’s armor files and Nico’s base helmet, you should have no problem earning basic Legion approval, provided you follow the minimum requirements outlined in the CRL and really take your time with the prep work before painting. As PlatinumLex mentioned, never hesitate to ask if you run into questions. There are some awesome resources and incredibly helpful members here, and I can’t wait to watch your build progress!

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Posted
On 6/7/2026 at 8:11 PM, Sayless said:

Welcome to the FISD! 3D-printed armor can definitely be a bit cumbersome, but it is entirely doable with enough patience and effort. Akira’s files are great, and while you might encounter a few minor hiccups with certain parts, those have been deeply detailed and troubleshoot right here on the forums. I haven’t personally heard of any mods to Akira’s files yet, so I’m curious to see what you found—I wouldn’t be surprised at all if they exist!
 

When it comes to smoothing out your pieces, UV resin is an excellent approach because it coats well and sands down pretty easily. A lot of us also rely heavily on spot putty, specifically the 3M or Bondo brands. Other builders have found plenty of success with plastic wood filler from the local home improvement store, too. I’ve tried both and personally had better odds with the spot putty, but it really comes down to individual preference.

 

As others have already mentioned, Nico’s helmet files are pretty much the community gold standard, especially when you pair them with Greg’s mods. The helmet is easily the most time-intensive part of the entire build, so it makes total sense that you're saving the best for last. Doing it this way gives you a great opportunity to practice various techniques on the rest of the armor first so you can figure out what you like and dislike before tackling the bucket.

 

With Akira’s armor files and Nico’s base helmet, you should have no problem earning basic Legion approval, provided you follow the minimum requirements outlined in the CRL and really take your time with the prep work before painting. As PlatinumLex mentioned, never hesitate to ask if you run into questions. There are some awesome resources and incredibly helpful members here, and I can’t wait to watch your build progress!

Thank you for this info and support! Ha, I am a little stuck already...

I was looking at the pieces for the left calf. As mentioned before, my calves are kind of big...but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to scale Akira's files given it's in like 3 pieces...is there something I'm missing to make this a bit easier to figure out and guestimate it close?!

I got my .6 nozzle and would love to start printing soon...the UV Resin sounds like the ticket as well, I'll have to stock up on some of that...

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Posted
15 minutes ago, Lovespicyfood said:

i was looking at the pieces for the left calf. As mentioned before, my calves are kind of big...but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to scale Akira's files given it's in like 3 pieces...is there something I'm missing to make this a bit easier to figure out and guestimate it close?!
 

I use 3D builder, if they have been saved in situe they will normally be pieced together, then I adjust all three pieces, may be easier ways but this works for me

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Posted
1 hour ago, Lovespicyfood said:

Thank you for this info and support! Ha, I am a little stuck already...

I was looking at the pieces for the left calf. As mentioned before, my calves are kind of big...but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to scale Akira's files given it's in like 3 pieces...is there something I'm missing to make this a bit easier to figure out and guestimate it close?!

I got my .6 nozzle and would love to start printing soon...the UV Resin sounds like the ticket as well, I'll have to stock up on some of that...


I’d agree to a similar method that Glen suggested. This, and/or Blender are good tools to use currently. In the future, options like FormFitter may also be great but there’s not a definitive timeline on its release, as the beta period just launched on Friday. 
 

A lot of scaling can be done based solely on getting rough measurements of your body with a fabric measuring tape (the soft flexible ones), and then measuring cross sections in your preferred scaling software. 
 

The thighs are arguably the hardest part in my opinion with these non-saga TKs as most files feature a double overlapping system which is good for gluing or Velcro, but not necessarily for flexibility. 
 

For me, most of Akira’s files were too tight initially so I scaled up to 102 or 103%, but this generally left the piece being too tall. It’s, unfortunately, a lot of trial and error unless you have a scan of yourself to reference your scaling to. 
 

Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help, I’ve had my fair share with these thighs!

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey Pete, since I'm redoing part of my armor and now using Akira's files I'm actually in a very similar spot as you right now. I hope you got a chance to get TKModder421's upgraded ROTK bucket too. I posted on my thread all the updated files I'm using for my build, so I hope that can help before you fully commit to printing if you are interested in more accurate files.

When it comes to scaling, I'm in the exact same boat as you. I normally take measurements and eyeball it from there, and I tried to do a 3D scan of my body with a free app (not the best) to give it a try and it slightly worked, but until FormFitter comes out, it's not going to be too easy.

Posted

Thank you all for your insightful advice! Glad I'm not crazy...I do have access to the beta of Formfitter because of Kickstarter but doesn't seem it will be helpful for a while...

I do acknowledge I'll likely print out parts that have been modded and then realize they don't work and trash them...just trying to mitigate the mistakes as much as possible.

Okay, seems like a manual process of stitching the parts together and scaling as needed...hmmm...as mentioned, my buddy has been doing design work independently for a few decades so perhaps just sending him the files, he could put them together, I could scale them appropriately through measurements of my body, and then print out...I might be over thinking this, but that sounds like a plan...

Thank you @Platinum Lex, I will scour your thread for updated files...definitely would like to minimize reprints and no reason not to get the most accurate ones, eh?!

Thank you all again. love the community of support! This will be a long process...and I have a day job that keeps me busy...but hopefully this is something I can work towards for a Halloween '26 reveal...

  • Like 2
Posted

Excited to see the next update, and trust me, a lot of us have had the "I'm just gonna get this done by Halloween" mentality (Spoiler: you will most likely keep working on this for two more years because you'll find more rabbit holes to go down).

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