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welshchris77

E11 Blaster pipe build with lights and sound

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I have just finished this project and have a build thread on the Ireland Garrison but thought I would post it here also to help other who may be doing something similar.

 

First off I need to thank and give credit to TK8177 for his amazing circuit and code he created for his own project on which this is partially based.

 

 

My main reason for building this blaster was to enhance my trooping to another level by having light and sound in my blaster.

 

 

I wanted to retain the look of a screen used deac sterling so have kept the spring and managed to squeeze all the electronics into the counter and barrel.

 

 

Here is a transcript of my build thread!:-

 

 

Earlier in the year I decided to build a new E11 blaster, my old one looked fine but would love one with lights and sound.

Did alot of research on the electronics elements which I will get back to but the whole project got put on hold while working on other things.

 

Anyway recently I have picked up again on this. doopydoos is a great kit but they can be quite heavy and due to the inside diameter of the receiver there is not enough room for all the electronics, the other option is to do it as a pipe build, this has its own set of problems, pvc pipe would be great but for the life of me I couldn't find anything locally or online that was 38mm outside diameter , what I did find in the correct diameter is Aluminium Tube, its nice and light but obviously harder to work with than plastic.

 

So my plan is to use an aluminium tube for the receiver and butcher a doopydoos for some of the parts. I have also ordered T-track from John 'Marv the Martian', same accurate track I used for the sterling conversion.

 

I will try to document as much of the build as I can if other wish to follow it.

 

I also plan on building three of these blasters, one for myself and the other two to possibly sell to offset some of the cost.

 

So on with the show!

 

 

 

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The scopes are tricky to make them look like real m38's have made three before though so have a bit of practice.

For the lenses to look correct I chop off the ends and counter bore them from the inside out, spade bits are great for taking away the bulk of the resin, high speed twist drill bits are fine for piloting holes but tend to bind while drilling out resin as you move to larger diameter bits which can damage the work piece.a87c1444481f1202a0bb1976a5658063.jpg

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Some details of boring out the scope and countersinking.
Fine tuning done with a dremel sanding wheel and grinding bits.9e6a529322dde50a05439017ac49a522.jpg531b91146f69b259a4b338c8caeb377a.jpg04d25debf972bff9ab66ff05dd61105c.jpg8fc429c22ee1b6edb48de737dd7034c8.jpgb26217d0fd39283a77f0ea26d3b49b6e.jpg527ecfc3cff13303d43e8ccbc7ef0961.jpgba8020312b16e1e17fdf3495703f817b.jpg24e10e6286b867d1528a8b5196e15085.jpg6c2c1313f829abd5134155e68346fcf6.jpg

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Next is making the lenses, I use CD covers and a former, in this case a brass door handle for the large lense that has the perfect shape.

Clamp handle in the vice, heat up the plastic with a heat gun and (using gloves) pull the plastic over the former.

When cool can mark out a circle and cut out with a cutting disc using the dremel.

At this point I prime the parts and paint them black before sticking the lenses in with two part 5min epoxy (very carefully) using a cocktail stick 
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These parts are put to one side for now, I may fit the scope with an internal LED.

Working my way through this in sub assemblies for now.

Next was the front sight, I never liked the front sight on the doopydoos, just looks like its waiting to get a slight bang and get broken, also trying to make them more accurate by carving them out is tricky so I decided to fabricate new ones from aluminium as I have done with the blasters I have made previously.

Sights are made by drilling and filing mostly, then the knurled pattern is made but hammering the handle of my centre punch over the aluminium so the patten is embossed into the metal, same as a sterling!.
The piece is the bent into shape, I use the soft jaws of the vice, a round bar and a pair of pliers that have been ground smooth for this.
bf0a17c22c5de9fcccf6a4d7602aefd0.jpg96c70319a5b9868a1a5d264c8618978d.jpgf80d31e3c3fb2e6e37ca10598ef70c69.jpgb4c504ae6c27fb6c77b57add991574aa.jpgd91b108713a7a2651df4cf46504dd011.jpgc4a28fddeb7c4a2d4a036e3f0a5e2d41.jpg7f95b8599d325bc8e7124439afe6ff2f.jpgf77d5515649127ad506b13e044e17798.jpg381f5c9d681fb8c03a77166248d79de6.jpg0d2124fb19f1e3626e969292d453a82a.jpg7432db0b3e16cca4e8449953cdf09aca.jpgb6d8377e7c7a49a3f4f3ac7da40af4dd.jpg

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Next I made the bit with sits inside this by chopping up the old resin sight and reshaping, drilling a hole and grinding down a nail to the right shape fb9d0e38c950adc4694154227d434506.jpg7164530d1d529e6802c262749fcc92e7.jpgcf110a4c5e3a0141993c58f4a2d9999f.jpg4f800d1b819d045614fb1f6759e8b40a.jpgb1cd542db2acc4868f2e4aa3376e7962.jpgad18f90b9f4d5211d9ca57f8c9796a4e.jpg33cee44c2837f9928724668d499e2ef0.jpg06aa0e1d322d20c0ea81ea52d8460d5a.jpgb1a311ffa847ad8b3bd8849be8fdae45.jpg

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Auminium scope rails made from recycled window slips, cut with a hacksaw and filed smoothca1db60db9ebe109ffedb8d52c4736f0.jpg1daac1e301b548ac72974944d1506ae8.jpg55061da27f5cd63ef653b8c30975c08f.jpg2aff5372e5d172080ee781a6a7fbc4e7.jpgbd4663b6b0be3b266664d68d6b44ab87.jpg

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Side view of scope rail09dd96c8e6ffa23e99878362851678fd.jpg

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To make the muzzle I modified the doopydoos, a lot of drilling and sanding involved!a1d68a6730f55afca166c9479af9bf53.jpg48ae1a28e071277451634560539bcf01.jpg7efded5b8dd2607f1c608f48fd1ab169.jpg7c7cdbde061accc1a0fe080ac74644b6.jpga44e796d0fa1fe0744fbcf616f46eb8f.jpg41330d93dd1b2fde2ad86931a5d98fdb.jpg5c7144f52b912f99ffe1b5d1659535f2.jpg

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Have some templates for the receiver tube but they were designed for a 40mm pvc pipe and some of the dimensions were off.
Luckily I have the sterling for reference so was able to tweak the template, involved a lot of printing and changing the scale and reprinting, over and over until I got it just right.

Once the templates were ready I cut them and stuck them to the tube with some double sided tape. 
Next used a centre punch to mark the holes and piloted them with a 4mm drill bit.
The holes on the sterling are 11mm, didn't have a 11mm drill bit so down to the hardware shop, nearly €8 for a drill bit, robbery but didn't feel like waiting to buy one online.
Drilled out all the necessary holes and used a dremel for cutting out the other bits. Made up a tool for deburing the inside of the tube.
Will need further holes for wiring but the bulk is done on this tube, hopefully will get the other two done tmw. 

Lots of filing, sanding and deburing on the Aluminium tube.
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Not all the holes need to be drilled on the receiver tube as they will be covered by the T-track
The three tubes are all cut drilled and debured

End cap retaining collars made from 42mm waste pipe sections.
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Got some work done on the hengstler counter, very time consuming and intricate to work on as it has to fit a lot of electronics inside.

Started by rebuilding the rear section from 2mm plasticard.
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Using a 10 bar LED as an amo counter, cut a strip of verso board to mount it on and also to take a momentary switch, the red switch will be painted black eventually.

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Quick question Chris...when you’ve chopped the scope down how do u clamp the smaller parts for drilling without them collapsing?


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I use the wooden jaws on my vice and also a rag rapped around the piece to hold it steady, i only open up the hole big enough to fit a large dremel sanding wheel in then gradually ream/sand away holding the piece in my hand for extra control.

You need to use a spade bit for resin , drill bits tend to bind, small drill bits are fine for piloting your hole to begin

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Chopped up the resin counter and hollowed out the front section with a 16mm spade bit.

The front section will house the mp3 player and amplifier.29e77831d0c9b62a5b97abbc93a3e856.jpgb456320722384cacc070fd1a7b820a44.jpg96afd52b016594246fe721da2fac592e.jpgb5a8b736c3898bd57b03945a5c40d075.jpg37648dd77c262b0cb37187793979ae5d.jpgfbb0315dafd214e61c7329701c78d2f7.jpg12b70f6f59e498e401a8c3c3abd8303b.jpg794d72f7c65fe4f08142ccdeb3297d8f.jpg471b5676ce5c0399c170d960a3b9a915.jpg

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Thanks Chris...never worked with resin before and my kit hasn’t arrived yet so I haven’t any experience yet


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No problem, it's very easy to cut, grind fill etc and has a small amount of flex, just take your time and make sure you have a good respirator/dust mask, the dust is epic!

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Next was a ton of soldering for the LED's and 'reload switch' and their respective resistors 
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Ammo counter tested and test fitted to barrel, had to drill a slot for the wires to pass through226d6c694a79583e30b0c5abaebda62e.jpg28dbfc8a35247c5f324456a7069c57be.jpg3b6e3dc771667c0247e1844deb3c9dec.jpg1fb39ce72f7b90b839a8aa20ff8356a2.jpg9fcd5067aa4260e9675c13fc0d66bc75.jpg50998529041ef5322ac64863223f2f02.jpgab224c7283f074a2133a023c658ef23a.jpg5b4f1901d8c064fc0deea8c74f6d02c2.jpg46e8ee1f0ec67c8bf9902fa3a62cabe9.jpg2be892df5890ee017bda6671d485bc78.jpg57095926f6f989de8347a1f61fd05576.jpg

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All the electronics on the ammo counters are completed.
Closed up the box at the back, filled and sanded away all the joins then masked everything off, primed, sanded and re primed.5cd6cb814f0cc743d2827528fa58724e.jpgb350a00dd090d9d0a558e69317cbaf77.jpg0fb575080a38877aa496891b79ad530f.jpg

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Top coat all done on counters!, so glad to get these bits done as they were so time consuming to make3f5ee35237378b0bd81d52feb2be8e65.jpg88259ba94544e8668ffccfa5c479a00e.jpge5a4ea75ad43f0d1d9e5b7b93af0b9b0.jpg

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Glued the front sights on but something looked off with them, measured an original on the sterling and realised the ones I had made were 5mm too high

Ripped them off and went back to the drawing board redesigning them to scale, made the new sights and fitted them, this time used epoxy as superglue doesn't work great with aluminiumbfc319516ef896dc52ef3b8834ee2356.jpgf6d503d768c80dbf45625bb02c0a640c.jpgbba2f9434231026c034406427ecbd1b0.jpgdfd373baa8402e986bc55bfd942ed6df.jpg

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