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Modified parts for the F-11D blasters


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Hi everyone,

 

While the work on my armor slowly moves along, I've started work on my F-11D heavy blaster, based off The5thHorseman files. Since my 3d printer is a long ways away from being completed, I found someone local to me who does 3d printing. I plan to have most parts printed by them, then I'll clean them up, put it all together and possibly make another one out of resin or fiberglass reinforced epoxy.

 

As such, the parts that I don't have printed, I'm going to make from Aluminum and grips from rubber. I also plan on making a PCB with some electronics and sound. Based off the file names, here's the lists...

Aluminum

1. Barrel - Muzzle plug 1

2. Barrel - Muzzle plug 2

3. Folding stock - Bracket

4. Folding stock - Flashlight 2

5. Scope - knob - 1& 2 (modified to act like a real scope and go "click" when it's turned.)

6. Scope - Tube (modified with threaded ends for the eye rings)

7. Scope - Front eye ring

8. Scope - Rear eye ring

9. Scope - Rail 2

10. Scope - mount 2 (modified to attach to mount 1 with screws, also keeps scope in place without glue)

11. T-Tracks

12. Cocking lever

 

Other modified parts...

1. Cast rubber grips all around

2. LED's in the magazine on custom PCB

3. LED in the barrel that's trigger operated

4. Sound

 

That's what I've got for now, but I'm sure I'll find more things to make from aluminum or something else as the build progresses. If there's something you want to see in aluminum for this weapon, let me know.

 

Since enough of you are using the same files, if there's enough interest in the parts I listed above, I can run the numbers and do a run. Let me know which parts you're interested in.

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I'd be interested in the scope/scope rings, cocking lever, the cast rubber grips (you should probably make these with a bit of bleed, since not all 3D printers are created equal) and possibly the LED stuff (any chance of adding sound, too?).

 

I'd also be interested in the 'End Cap 2' (d-ring) part, but I think this is an area where we can improve on the original model and make it more screen accurate - the original mounts to the OUTSIDE of the end cap, so the flange is not necessary, you could just thread the inside and you'd just need a screw + washer to mount it.

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