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unclesven's RS ANH Stunt build [*RS]


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Hi everyone!

 

I'm doing my first build and recently I decided to go for the RS armour. I got it some time ago and now I'm trying to get started with the actual build. I also got an e-11 full resin doopys kit that I've already started with.

 

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So, to get me pumped up for the armour build I started by watching some films.

 

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Go, Lumpy!

 

So, to give myself an easy start I fixed some boots

 

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About seven coats of Angelus paint later I got this

 

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Now I've also started with the e-11, and also did some easy first testing with the thermal detonator. 

 

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I've been trying to do my research in all the great build threads I've found here, and now it's time for myself to get started. I'm sure to have lots of questions along the way, but I really hope that you guys will help me out :-) 

 

cheers

/christian

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So, apparently the thermal detonator was not so simple. I'm finding different ways to do this in different builds. I haven't glued the middle part yet, since I'm not sure how to position it. Should it be like on this photo? 

 

20140615_194503_zpsmfshjmbq.jpg

 

In the CRL on the photo at the top with the trooper from behind it looks like it the row of "ridges" should be horizontal, but in the CRL-photo for only the thermal detonator it looks more like it is here on my photo.

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Welcome to the FISD! Good luck with the build. As you be mentioned, there are plenty of awesome photos and advice of builds!

 

Looks like you have your TD correct...

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gallery_12157_59_19594.jpgYour Thermal detonator control panel should position itself. When you have trimmed out the control panel from the mold line, just make sure the metal clips touch the lower edge like in the picture.

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Thanks for the input about the TD!

 

Yea, the vodka was used for the boots. I wanted to order some cleaner from Angelus when I ordered the paint, but the cleaner was only available on the US-only section of their webpage. Don't know if this is due to some mistake on their part, or if it has something to do with them not being allowed to ship flammable materials over-seas. In any case, I had a few bottles of vodka left over from a party we had some time ago. It worked out pretty good. And the smell was better than the pure chemical stuff :)  

Edited by unclesven
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So I guess I will start working on the forearms now. As I understand from the screen shots, the piece with 11 indentations should be on the left arm. It seems that the RS is very similar to the screen shots, as far as I can see. On the other hand, there seems to be a lot of non-symmetry here. But I guess that's what you have cutting tools for. 

 

20140616_202208_zpselfg2c7r.jpg

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I did the first, very rough, trimming of the forearms. The non-symmetry is monumental in these pieces :-) But I guess that's the way it should be. From the tutorials and other build threads I understand that the cover strips should be about 15 mm wide, so I will start by trimming the side with the ridge line to get these to be about 7.5mm each. Also I will remove the return edge on the wrist opening. Then I will see how much I can trim down on the opposite side in order to make a good fit while still being able to get my hands through. 

 

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Well, damn, its' almost 23.30 here and I need to get up early for work tomorrow. Guess I'll have to continue tomorrow. 

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20140616_202208_zpselfg2c7r.jpgYou have them positioned correctly for the arms they are supposed to go on. RS parts are a custom fit dream.  Once you have removed the desired amount of return edge from the wrist and elbow sides (ALL return edge should be removed from the wrist side), Work on getting your cover strip ridge around 15 mm wide when the halves are placed together. Once you have that seam straight, tape it heavily and get a helper. put the forearm on. Have your helper squeeze the halves together. You will have overlap on the underside of your forearm. Release the squeeze until it is comfortable near your elbow and until you can get your hand out with little effort. When you are at this point, have your helper mark on both overlapping parts at the wrist and the elbow. Take off the forearm and connect the dots and this will be your seam line for the underside. This method is repeatable for the thighs and shins. The biceps have no raised seam line. You will need to fit them from the front and the back evenly.

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Thanks for the practical hints on how to do this properly. I find the left and right forearms to be very different in shape and overall geometry. Do I have the correct match in the picture, ie the two parts on the left in the picture are indeed for the left arm? 

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I've had some time today to do some more work on the forearms. I trimmed the wrist part to remove the return edge. At the elbow side I kept some return edge on the outer side. I will save some so that I can trim it down as needed when I get the biceps done also and see how it all fits together. I also tried it with gloves on, so that it worked with the latex part. 

 

Onwards I go. 

 

 

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So, I've continued to work on the forearms and biceps, and they are looking oki at the moment. Right now I'm taking a break from the build since I'm at the summer house celebrating Swedish midsummer. Eating herring, potatoes, sour creme and chives while drinking spiced vodka and singing drinking songs. Soon we will dance the frog dance around a midsummer pole, representing a gigant penis fertilizing Mother Earth for the coming sowing season. The frog dance tells us that although the frogs have no tails or ears they are still quite funny to look at. While most Swedish people are mainstream Christian most of the year, on midsummer we go all in Pagan/Viking. If you don't believe me you can just google it. It all sounds a bit weird but it makes a whole lot more sense after some vodka. 

 

I just have one question. I'm about to paint the e-11. My plan was to use Hammerite with Black Hammer Effect. Do you think this will work, or will it turn out to be to shiny? 

 

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Oki, I have two questions :-) I guess this is a bit off-topic also, but does the barrel of the e-11 have to be see-through (at the holes closest to the muzzle)? My plan was to use a wooden stick to act as a bolt, which would then go all the way up to the front. Painted black this would not be much visible, but still. In the picture the wooden stick is inserted through the first four holes, but I really can't see a problem with this. 

 

20140620_123106_zpsnqnfocu5.jpg

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And in a flash of new photos I expel the rigor mortis of this thread and infuse new life in the build. I did some work on the arms and I've put together some parts. I only have clamps and magnets to do glue one part each day (I'm using e6000 which needs something like 24h to cure), so it's slow work. The shoulder bells are a little bit hard to hold in the right place. I haven't attached the straps yet. Also I left some extra abs at each part so that I can trim it down properly when I get it all put together.  

 

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The shoulder bells will be tighter and lower to cover the biceps once the strap is applied. I didn't notice I was holding the shoulder bell like this until I saw the photos afterwards, and then it was to late to take any more. 

 

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I think I need to get the bicep part a bit lower. Also I will probably need to trim down the forearm in order to ease movement. 

 

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Also the e-11 is soon finished. I will just fix the last of the scope/counter, and then do some more painting and weathering to get it in order. I also need to fix the spring and bolt parts, but these are finished already. 

 

20140626_211358_zpscaheu4ln.jpg

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Ah, yes the buxom melon and the gay weenie. All American brands according to the fine print. Got them from some tourist shop in New Orleans. Thought they would make a good backdrop for my minibar. And the lack of Star Wars books, well, I make up for it with a healthy amount of Love Hina manga and Prins Valiant comics. Or maybe it doesn't make up for it. Not sure.  

Edited by unclesven
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So, first blood in the build has been drawn (if you look closely you will see it). Now I'm on a roll. 

 

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Also a question about the e-11. I've been trying to find a good picture somewhere showing how to trim these edges, but to no avail. How have you guys done? Should I trim these so that they are even with the edge of the rail?

 

scope_zpsa26aa33e.png

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Oki, I'm moving on with the legs now. The thighs are a masterwork of wonkiness but this is really starting to grow on me now. I feels like you can modify these to fit almost everyone. I've checking the reference pictures from RS about this, and I think I've got this right now. However, can someone please verify that these are correctly paired up before I start cutting and gluing anymore? The left parts on the left side of the photo and the two pieces for the right thigh on the other side. 

 

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First off.....tasty looking summer sausage. I bet your burps smelled wonderful after that! NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM

 

Back to business....

Your thighs are paired up correctly. You mentioned wonkiness. You are correct. The left thigh will work itself out fine. The right one is the one that has choices. First off you will find that top of the thigh will look like this:DSCN0430_zps6267c8c7.jpg You could leave it like that, but as you can see by my markings, I decided to trim it even and re-create the return edge

DSCN0439_zps8dac80d5.jpgAlso, don;t worry about the uneven bottom portion either. Don;t clip it off. IT will be hidden under the thigh pack, plus, You can use it to as a gluing surface so your thigh pack doesn;t hinge.DSCN0700_zpsbf088b5f.jpg

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Back to business....

 

 

In my family burping is the business. And, yes, my burps always smell wonderful. A steady diet of sausage, onion and ale has made sure of that. 

 

Thanks for the input regarding the thigh. I started last night with the left leg and this seems to sort itself out (as you pointed out). In the reference pictures I've also seen different solutions for the top part of the right thigh, so I guess this is up to individual preference. But your solution looks good.

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