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Sixxgunn13's build.. well slow build.


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Hi guys n gals,

I thought I share the first pics of my AP set.

I received these shortly after Christmas… I had an FX suit wayyyy back. I sold that suit to get a more accurate one, forward to 10 years later.

 

Wow this suit is amazing, It beats the FX suit hands down.

I don't know when I'll start the build up but it may be in the summer when I have more room.

 

Here, is a pic of it outta the box and the next pic is the helmet mocked up with my Fett helmet.

setxf.jpg

buckets.jpg

 

I do have updated pics of my helmet, with the ears trimmed, I'll post it later today.

 

thx

A

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Have fun Arnold!! take lots of pix when you work on your AP build!

 

BTW, the neck trim, and hovis that come with the AP kit are not accurate.

 

Mike has the neck trim, + other things: http://members.cox.net/appstronaut/tk4510_decals.html

 

For accurate hovis:

 

Keith: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12782&st=0&p=155967&hl=keith&fromsearch=1entry155967

 

Sskunky: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12588

 

Smitty: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10676&st=0&p=134072&hl=free%20hovi&fromsearch=1entry134072

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Thx guys...

 

@ RogueTrooper,

thx for the info.. thats why I say slow build..lol

there is so much details that I need to re-learn when it comes to troopers.

 

I know a bit about ESB fett but the Stormtrooper is just as crazy.

 

In your opinion of the 3 Hovi, which do you recommend, as far as accurate?

 

Have fun Arnold!! take lots of pix when you work on your AP build!

 

BTW, the neck trim, and hovis that come with the AP kit are not accurate.

 

Mike has the neck trim, + other things: http://members.cox.net/appstronaut/tk4510_decals.html

 

For accurate hovis:

 

Keith: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12782&st=0&p=155967&hl=keith&fromsearch=1entry155967

 

Sskunky: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12588

 

Smitty: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10676&st=0&p=134072&hl=free%20hovi&fromsearch=1entry134072

Edited by sixxgunn13
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Thx guys...

 

@ RogueTrooper,

thx for the info.. thats why I say slow build..lol

there is so much details that I need to re-learn when it comes to troopers.

 

I know a bit about ESB fett but the Stormtrooper is just as crazy.

 

In your opinion of the 3 Hovi, which do you recommend, as far as accurate?

 

 

 

Keith's or Sskunky's both look spot on. Smitty's metal screen does not look accurate to me. (Sorry about that Smitty) :(

 

Below is a picture of an original Hovi. Note that the Hovi's were originally white, then painted black. Thus, the chipping around the edges and you can see the white. This gave the effect that it was possibly metal where the paint had worn.

 

Keith's is cast in white resin and you can paint them black. Mark, sskunky's is cast in white resin, as well, and I believe his are already painted black, but check with him to see if you can get it either/or.

 

Either Keith's or sskunky's would be a good choice.

 

 

Pic of an oniginal Hovi:

 

johnorigrotj13.jpg

 

Keith's Hovi's:

 

picture052z.jpg

picture049s.jpg

 

 

 

Mark (sskunky) Hovi's:

 

IMG_3070.jpg

HoviMictip075.jpg

HoviMictip074.jpg

 

Smitty's Hovi's:

 

100_0952%5B1%5D.JPG

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Hi mate,

I do these for £3.50 a pair finished as is plus post.

P1010387.jpg

They are one piece casts, painted with the mesh, you're probably not interested if you want the top end but they are clean casts and cheap.(click on the pic and you can see them better)

idea was to have ok tips at a good price to start off with, I know what its like when you start buying this stuff :-), you don't stop.

I will be doing a run soon and had some interest but I can do you a one off set ASAP if you want some. Only thing not sure of is post to canada but if you want some I will find out.

All the best mate.

Gra

Edited by tk7713gra30
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Thx,

I'll have to check them out in my computer once I get home , my iPhone won't zoom in for some reason.

 

Hi mate,

I do these for £3.50 a pair finished as is plus post.

P1010387.jpg

They are one piece casts, painted with the mesh, you're probably not interested if you want the top end but they are clean casts and cheap.(click on the pic and you can see them better)

idea was to have ok tips at a good price to start off with, I know what its like when you start buying this stuff :-), you don't stop.

I will be doing a run soon and had some interest but I can do you a one off set ASAP if you want some. Only thing not sure of is post to canada but if you want some I will find out.

All the best mate.

Gra

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I don't know when I'll start the build up but it may be in the summer when I have more room.

 

 

Arnold you don't need a lot of room to build your armor. You can even do it in a closet. Why wait in the summer when you can do an hour a day on one piece at a time and your suit will be ready in 2 weeks.

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Hey QT,

 

In reality I could make my kit in a box... :lol:

But my wife and I are having a baby and we live in a condo.

I don't want my wife smelling any fumes or have plastic shavings all over the place. :huh:

 

And she is understanding when i was TOTALLY in to my Fett suit. So I want to be fair and give her quality time.

 

This is just a hobby.. I can do this any time, also I want to take my time on this to get it accurate.

 

I want to make it as close to a movie suit. so that will take time and not 2 weeks.. IMO :D

 

 

I don't know when I'll start the build up but it may be in the summer when I have more room.

 

 

Arnold you don't need a lot of room to build your armor. You can even do it in a closet. Why wait in the summer when you can do an hour a day on one piece at a time and your suit will be ready in 2 weeks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Which image host are you using, Photobucket, flickr, imageshack, etc...

 

You might want to start a new account with another image host. Personally, I like photobucket for my image hosting.

 

Also, look over this to see if you are missing a step in posting your pix here on the forum:

 

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10747

 

i see a lot of people are having issues posting pics. i put this little step by step tutorial together for anyone having picture trouble:P

 

first you need to set up an account at a image hosting website, i use PHOTOBUCKET so i will base this tutorial on that

 

now upload any images to photobucket that you want to post

 

after you upload hover your mouse over the image and a code box should appear, right click on the direct link code and select COPY

post1.jpg

 

now go to the post editor

post2.jpg

 

post3.jpg

 

 

just Make sure the http:// that is in the box is either pasted over or deleted if your link looks like this "http://http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac5/dashrazor/misc/post3.jpg" it will not work

 

also the email/im code will result in an error

 

 

hope this helps someone:D

 

 

also you can post almost any image from the net

this will show you how to post from google image search

 

first search for a image and click on it

 

post4.jpg

 

then click on SEE FULL SIZE IMAGE

post5.jpg

 

right click on the image and select COPY IMAGE LOCATION

post7.jpg

 

then just paste the link into the editor as shown above :D

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Your helmet is coming together nicely Arnold.

 

One thing, which direction are you going, ANH or ESB? If you are going to do ESB then you will need to trim the eyes more.

 

If you are going ANH Stunt, you will need eight teeth total, even though there were screen used ANH stunts lids that had 3 to 5 teeth per side or 6 to 10 teeth total cut out on the frown. But the CRL states for the ANH Stunt lid "Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out".

 

 

CRL ANH Stunt TK: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/crl-overview/crl-anh-stunt.html

 

CRL ANH Stunt helmet

 

* Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS. It must be white. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen.

Note: the FX helmet is considered to be inaccurate but is acceptable for Legion acceptance.

* Frown must be painted gray and not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are to be cut out.

* Traps and tears must be gray.

* Rear traps & tears must have vertical black lines.

* Blue tube stripes, matching what was used on screen - navy blue and black are not acceptable. There must be at least 9 and a maximum of 15. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side.

* Lenses may be green or smoke, flat or bubbled. They should be dark enough that viewers cannot see the eyes behind them.

* Chin must be black.

* Ears have three or four bumps

* Mic tips must be present.

 

 

 

Here is what is posted for the CRL ESB lid on the FISD. For some wierd reason it doesn't have as much info as the 501st site. That is why I gave you both. But they both should be the same. I guess the person on the FISD who did it, didn't finish it out.

 

 

 

CRL ESB on the FISD: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/crl-overview/crl-esb.html

 

Helmet

* Traps/tears should be ANH grey or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray.

* Frown must be painted black and not leave the teeth area.

* Flat green or smoke lenses only, no bubble lenses allowed.

* Traps/tears and tube stripes must be decals, no hand-painting.

 

 

 

CRL ESB TK: http://www.501st.com/crl/TK_CRL/126_Stormtrooper_ESB/index126.php

 

CRL ESB Helmet from the 501st site:

 

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.

Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

Lenses are a flat green or smoke sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.

The gray "ear" bars have four bumps, with a black outline.

Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out.

Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black

Aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black

 

 

 

 

If you are going to do an ESB lid, here are some pix of original ESB lids as reference. Either way have fun and keep posting pix.

 

origESBpatch01.jpg

 

esbHDPE01.jpg

 

esbHDPE02.jpg

 

esbHDPE03.jpg

 

molloESB_trooper.jpg

 

mollostormESB3.jpg

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Thx RT,

 

When you mean the eyes need more trimming, do you mean more material taken away to make the sockets shallower?

 

 

Happy to help, bro. You are correct about making the sockets shallower, by trimming away a little bit more material in certain areas of the eye socket area.

 

The three diagrams below I made for you indicates kind of where you need to trim out, if you are doing an ESB lid.

 

Study the pix that I posted for you before. Make you a pencil line on the areas around the eye socket where you are going to trim. Take it slow when trimming. It is easier to do a little bit at the time and not make an oops, than to trim too much at one time and can't go back.

 

If you are uncertain about exactly where you need to trim, just make a pencil line where you think you need to trim and post the pix. I will give you my opinion.

 

Arnoldlid1.jpg

 

Arnoldslid2.jpg

 

Arnoldlid3.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hey peeps,

Not much to show just did some rough trimming, just to get rid of the extra flashing.

I decided to go for ANH this time around and go with a snap assembly, due to ppl saying the wire brackets wont work with a AP set.

 

here is my trimmed parts so far.

img2873i.jpg

Edited by sixxgunn13
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  • 3 weeks later...

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