Zsleagth
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Posts posted by Zsleagth
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On 7/21/2022 at 1:00 PM, MaskedVengeance said:
Great work on your painting, Mark! I think for now you could likely leave your vocoder 2 and 6 ridges at their current height, as those two have some variation. As for your tube stripes application, here are some links that you may find helpful
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49240-painting-using-templates-101/
The big takeaway for preventing bleed through the edges of templates is to first paint (and let dry) a thin layer matching the surface color. So for your tube stripes, first paint white onto your template to seal the edges with the helmet surface. Then afterwards, go back in with the French blue.
And here is a thread with some general helmet painting tips.
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48942-anh-stunt-helmet-painting-tips/
Thanks @MaskedVengeance, I painted the mask with a little bit of white, concentrating on the edges of the cutout, and they came out pretty well
while I was waiting for the paint to dry, I had to remake the holes for the ears so they're lined up better for when I submit for centurion. A quarter of an inch makes a big difference!
I haven't had much time today, so likely tomorrow I'll have to do the same for the left ear.
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Inspiration hit me to start painting
I feel like I'm going to have to make 2 and 6 go up a little higher
For the record, I'm aware that the ear needs to be lined up better with the trap above the brow, but for now I have it in the holes that Mark (AP) had pre drilled. Going to figure out fixing this at another point.
Obviously I have to do the lines still.
On the left side I used tape, and was not very happy with how it came out, right side was free hand, and outside of a bit of paint that pooled in the top right corner, I feel came out much better. I actually started with these two, and after this, I'm painting the rest freehand (maybe with the exception of the tube stripes).
Not 100% if I really need to go further up with the paint on the teeth. Obviously the goal was to stay away from the gums.
Will likely continue painting later today. I actually have the trooper Bay tube stripes masking set. Any tricks to applying them? I know they have to be pencil width away from cheek, and I'm stuck at my work clinic at the moment so I'm too lazy to find/link the picture that shows which side to use on which side of the helmet. Just trying to see if there's a trick to actually applying it so there's no leaking like I had with the painters tape.
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I've also finally got around to putting the thigh ammo pack in. I was actually going through one of @ukswrath's Anovos builds as a guide as he has an amazing attention to detail and really explains everything with not only pictures/descriptions of what he's doing, but all the reference materials he uses as well (maybe next time I can be half as organized!).
Now I'm assuming that there's a difference in the distance we used from the back of the thigh to the back of the ammo pack because of size and different makers and all that. He went with 1/4", and I tried to get that, but it wasn't happening, so I did 5/8" as the distance on both sides.
And voila! thigh ammo pack. I will most likely get it to go up just above the cover strip and get a little glue in there to hold it in place around the time I go to paint all the rivets on the outside that need painting.
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47 minutes ago, revlimiter said:
That one bit of info is absolutely key for getting the AP sniper knee to align well. Boiling it helps reshape it correctly and get rid of the leaning issue, but that bottom edge needs to float above the cover strip. I filled mine in with 4 layers of cover strip plastic to give the knee bottom a base, just as Glen said.
So this is how it sits on the shin piece. I'm confident i can get the top edge of the sniper knee to be a little more on the ridge of the shin piece If i were clamping that down too (was just trying to see what I could get with just these clamps). Think that's enough?
I'm fine with stacking cover strip pieces underneath the bottom to give it something to hold on to.
Also, yesterday I was working on putting the silicone hand plate on, and it was an absolute disaster! The E6000 (on the left side) had never adhered to the silicone at all. Then I saw a post where someone said Mark from AP had said to put a little bit of CA glue and use the activator to get it to stay, unfortunately the little bit i put spread EVERYWHERE and then I tried adding more to see if maybe the heat from the activator would do the trick, and no luck!
Had to order a new set of gloves. Lesson learned!
I think this time I'm going to try to find an old shirt, and glue that to the silicone so I have an established base to be able to stick it to the gloves.
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Another issue i've been running into is the sniper knee.
The problem I'm experiencing is that I can get it to be flush against the cover strip in front, and get it to barely line up with the knee of the shin piece, but only at the edges of the sniper knee. If I really try to get it to be flush with the shape of the shin piece, the whole thing leans to one side, and the other side is basically coming way off of the armor.. not sure how to go about that one.
As you can see in the 3rd picture when I try to get the sniper knee to sit flush with the shin, it comes way off on the other side. I know i could clamp it down, but it's also way off center
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Okay, so I'm going to put some more progress photos up, but i've hit a snag that i'm confused about how to proceed.
With the canvas belt, Mark from AP had put 2 holes in the belt to attach the ammo belt. While that may not seem too bad, those holes in the belt also line up with the holes he made on the ab plate.
Now I know that normally the belt is attached at 3 points, with the 2 snaps inside of the outermost box as shown below (thanks @revlimiter I'm using yours as my example since I'm aiming for Centurion)
So at this point I guess I have to set the holes for the snaps on the belt and drill new holes in the ab plate?
I didn't see anything in the centurion requirements that actually specified it had to have this setup, so before I do anything, just curious what input you all had on this
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Thanks! Sounds like I'll be trimming down the thighs. Also, what are you using to draw out the dotted lines on the pictures?Glad to see you back at this, Mark, and even more glad that you are feeling better!
As for the top/bottom alignment of the thighs, that is not a biggie. Trust me. What I would do is to trim the top(s), eliminating some (or all) of the return edges. Those sharp angles can get mighty uncomfortable when walking, and you take the risk of snagging your under suit. The same is true for the tops of the biceps.
You are doing the perfect thing by posting up lots of detailed pics, but when in (even the slightest) doubt, always take a few moments to post up more with any issues before gluing.
Side note: You are going to be VERY happy you took the time and effort to go with the "double snap" system. Keep up the great work!
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Okay, so it's a bit of a photo dump here..
Covid hasn't been kind to me and most of the work i've done on the forearms and biceps has literally been in bed at like 2 in the morning when I couldn't sleep, so unfortunately i've been pretty sloppy with documenting things (and the room i'm in is a bit of a mess).
I've gotta take a picture with most everything laid out that i've finished so far.
I've been trying to work out the strapping, going to try to do double snap as much as I can.
Putting the forearms and biceps together has actually been pretty fun, i've found clamping a right angle metal ruler has been very helpful for the cover strips.
My only real problem area right now has been the thighs. they actually dont match up on top or bottom and i'm kind of stumped as to how to proceed.
The problem is that it's actually too long on one side on both the top and bottom. Is this something that just gets solved with a cover strip?
Next up is the left shin with the sniper knee, as well as the helmet. I've put it together just to see if I could make sense of things, and so far im pretty happy with it. Will start getting more picture happy with things going forward now that I can actually stand up in the rest of my house!
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9 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:
I noticed your coverstip looked a little wobbly, not sure if they came that way or you cut. Use a very sharp blade and metal rule, score 3 or 4 times then fold and snap, you can then sand the snap edge as it leaves a little ride. Also when gluing coverstrips make sure you rough the glue side and armor with a little coarse sandpaper, gives the E6000 something to grip too
9 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:Dang, i just realized the piece i used for this picture was one of the end pieces that had a curved edge (wasn't planning on using it), I appreciate your attention to detail!
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Okay so this being my first build, I was planning on using the workspace in my garage to lay everything out, plan, and get everything sorted. As luck would have it, big brown box day arrived, then I immediately got COVID, so I've been sleeping in my guest room which has been doubling as a storage room, and is now for the most part my build room. I'm having a terrible time being able to link any pictures, so I'll try to work that out going forward.
So my AP armor came already trimmed (I actually forgot that it was ordered that way) and this has brought me to a few questions.
So I figured I'd start with the biceps and forearms. When I went to see how they fit together and on me, I noticed they were very snug on my arm. This isn't much of a problem of itself, but as I understand it the cover strips are supposed to be 15mm on the arms, and at 15mm the cover strip doesn't really cover the raised area where the pieces butt join (1st picture). I would like to have the cover strip the same length as the raised area, but if I trim anymore away I probably won't fit my arms in it (darn these muscles!).
Second issue I've seen is the curve of the inside piece of the forearm ends like a good inch or more away from the end of the outer forearm with the divets. I'm not sure if this is not a big issue and I just cover it with the cover strip, or trim a bit of the outer forearm to match the curve of the inner section.
Once I figure out how to get these pictures to properly insert, I'll fix it here so it's not just links!
Unfortunately I'm limited to my bed, and when I'm able to, sitting at my computer desk for all of this at the moment, so bare with me if my picture game is terrible for the time being.
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I'm just curious while I'm waiting for everything to come in, if there's anything I can realistically do while I wait. The only thing I can think of that isn't directly part of the armor is the straps, but I probably don't want to do any of them without the armor present because I would want the straps to be a particular length so that everything fits the way I want to. Then again, I could probably make some of the smaller straps that attach the chest/ab/kidney, and just place them accordingly I would think? I'm done with fire school for the year and I don't have anything in particular to do while I wait so I'm probably just overthinking things
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I thought about this, but since AP provides the decals, I might just cut out the stripes and use that as a stencilI bought stencil templates from trooperbay and they worked great.
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On 6/17/2022 at 1:38 AM, CableGuy said:
Hey Mark,
Welcome aboard! Sounds like you have your hands full in life. As with many of us, you’ll be juggling TK stuff in amongst the daily grind.
Regarding the paints, all of mine for TKs are Enamel. I find that these give a very authentic finish.
If you’d like any tips on hand painting an ANH Stunt helmet, please feel free to check out my recent video series:
Regarding Snaps (commonly referred to as “poppers” in the UK), I found this video very useful. This maker uses single snaps, but there is no reason why you couldn’t double up if you need to. (I’ve never felt it necessary, but, many choose double snaps).
Great to have you join the forum and great to see you’re asking lots of questions. You’re on the path to the dark side, for sure.
Best wishes,
CableGuyAwesome, thanks! I'll check them out. I spent a bunch of time over the years painting Warhammer models, but my only weak spot is freehand painting, so those tube stripes are gonna give me a bit of a pause, but I'm sure they'll come out great once I figure out the angle.
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2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Yes the enamel gives you a more full gloss finish, the acrylic paint dries dry/matt in appearance. With the enamel you will need to apply a couple of thin coats as if you go to heavy it can wrinkle when drying, also give a day between coats just to make sure the first coat is fully dry.
Great, something to consider for sure if I use the enamel paint!
I haven't seen much discussion on it, but is there a preference as far as screen accuracy?
Most of what I've seen hadn't specified either which way, though being I've only been digging around a short time, it's totally possible I just haven't come across it yet.
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One question: I've been looking at the humbrol paints and I've noticed that they have a couple different versions. So for example humbrol #85 there's the enamel tin, and the acrylic bottle. Is there a difference between the enamel and the acrylic?
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So 2 will be the plan then!
Also @DoggydocI actually have your build thread bookmarked from when I was looking at reference builds, so thanks in advance!
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Thank you, will do!
I had checked out a bunch of the strapping threads, I guess it's just being nervous because it's that new territory and reading helps, but reading can only help so much until you actually start doing.
Appreciate the support!
Any thoughts on 1vs2 snap straps? I assume it just lessens the weight load per strap? Or does it help keep things in place better?
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Hey everyone,
For the longest time I've wanted to build myself an ANH set of storm trooper armor, and years ago I started doing some research, but wasn't at the point in my life where I could justify taking the dive. Today I'm a garbage man (so you know Ive escaped a trash compactor or two), a firefighter, and have myself a family, so of course now is the perfect time, with all that free time I totally have now haha. I enjoy being active in the community with the fire department, and I feel being a member here and doing troops would be a great opportunity to do more.
I've read through the forums and checked out a bunch of the EIB submissions and whatnot and finally ordered my ANH stunt kit from AP, now waiting on BBBD!
The AP kit seems to come with most everything to get me to centurion, and I've been working on ordering a neck seal, boots, possibly an E-11, and a cold and hot weather undersuit, and as I get closer I'll start a thread on https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ I believe it's the right place.
Probably my biggest concern at the moment is the snaps and rivets, because that's something I haven't worked with before. Any recommendations on how to go about doing the snaps/rivets or what tool(s) to use? Is it much more beneficial to do the 2 snap method? With the way everything gets attached together, I will probably do a belt garter for the legs, or possibly suspenders.I want to be able to practice straps/snaps before BBBD so I've got all the trial and error out of the way and to know how I want to attach all the armor (maybe I'll build a box costume for my daughter as practice).
If there's anything you think I'm missing let me know.
Thanks for having me, and I'm excited for this build and to join the legion!
Zsleagth's first TK build (stunt)
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
I think it's because the trap is set pretty deep and I was trying not to paint up the curved portion of it towards the front.
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