TrickyT81

Good news, my armour has been cleared. What a journey and massive thanks to all who has contributed on my thread (especially you Glen). It’s taken a while but never would have thought I would be able to build my own stormtrooper when I joined the 501st in 2021. The journey isn’t over though. I’ll be submitting my Expert Infantry pics soon and hopefully Centurion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I cracked it! [emoji1320] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it’s mainly a UK product. It’s used a lot here given there are E6000 knock offs but has similar properties, albeit a little tougher (as I’m finding out). I remember the end caps being difficult to remove without the glue when testing the fit but I’ll try the hot water and see if that helps loosen it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Chemi. That’s what I was thinking (remove the end caps but not push on all the way) but they’re not for budging. I glued on with Gorilla glue which is similar to E6000. Is this going to stop me from reaching levels 2 and 3? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As an additional question, I’m looking through the Centurion CRL and struggling to find anything referencing these TD measurements. If you can point me in the right direction on this that would be great. I’ve tried to be so meticulous with getting my armour correct for L3 it would be a shame to fail over a few mm. Sent from The Empire

Thanks for reminding me on this, Chemi. I’m a few millimetres out on this. Only one small problem, I can’t get the end caps off. They’re glued on pretty well. This is an RS kit and one thing I would say is that the tube part of the TD is pre-cut with the clips already screwed on. The end caps and front piece was cut by me to the trim lines. From what I can see of the measurements, the tube is a little short on what RS provides. Any suggestions on how I can get the end caps off and I’ll glue back on and not push right up to the clips. Sent from The Empire

So, aside from a few adjustments (tighter elastic to hold down shoulder bridges and kidney/ab overlap) I think I’m pretty much ready for basic clearance. Thoughts and suggestions welcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Morgi/Glen. This is making more sense to me now. Just one additional question regarding general strapping length. Is there a general ‘rule of thumb’ for this? For example, should I aim for the strapping on the left side to be short and tight or a similar slackness to the right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Glen, Just a few questions on the locking system. 1. Do I only need to add this to the right side? 2. If yes, are there any adjustments I should consider for the left side e.g., shorter/longer strap connection? 3. It appears the locking system keeps the ab/kidney aligned at the top, how does it prevent the overlap? I ask this because there doesn’t appear to be a ‘stopping point’ that prevents the kidney pulling over the ab too far. Thanks, Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glen to the rescue! I think I’ll try the foam padding again first as I may have been adding it to the wrong place. I was trying to add it near the ab/kidney seam and wasn’t making much difference Do you usually add the foam to the front of the ab i.e., around the stomach? Thanks, Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, I’m hoping to get some guidance on my ab/kidney overlap issue which is starting to frustrate me a little. So far I have tried: 1. Different lengths of elastic. 2. Different widths of elastic. 3. Adding padding From what I notice when I put on the armour, my hips are pushing the lower part of the join out, resulting in the top part overlapping. Before I go any further and waste more materials, any suggestions would be really appreciated. Below are pictures of my issue and my current interior strapping. Thanks all, Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi folks, I’ll be submitting my approval photos in the next week. Having kept my armourer up to date through my build, he is confident it will get through. I am aiming for Centurion so I’m assuming I need to be cleared as Expert Infantry first before submitting for Centurion? Thanks, Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was at the RS studio a week or so ago when they were working on the DLT-19 and it’s impressive [emoji108] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nearly there…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Empire, Depends what ‘look’ you would like. PVC is usually associated with the ‘idealistic’ look as it’s sparkling white and doesn’t discolour over time. Downside to PVC is that it’s more prone to cracking than ABS. In regard to ABS, this is the original plastic used in the film, more flexible (although can still crack) and what you would go with for the ‘accurate’ look. Downside to ABS is that it will disolour over time. I’m my opinion, accurate look is what I would go for but hope this helps. Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Glen, Did you use the heat gun just on the side that is sitting lower? Also, are you able to breakdown: 1. Which areas of the shin did you apply the heat to? 2. Best approach on applying heat without bending/warping the shins too much? I don’t have a lot of experience with heat guns so don’t want to over heat and ruin my armour. Thanks pal, Tim Sent from The Empire

Hi folks, I’m currently faced with a challenge with my left shin armour and have decided to go back a couple of steps to try and correct this. Just to remind, this is an RS build and both shins are right legs and I’m finding that the left isn’t lining up at the back as show in the pictures below. My own theory is that the sniper knee is almost acting as a bracket and causing the misalignment. As a result, I’m forcing the back to align. Should i take the sniper knee off, hold the back alignment in place with clamps and then glue the sniper knee back on or are there any other methods I can try? Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

Hi folks, So I’ve received my new lenses and a foam mount today so want to make a start on fitting them to my helmet. I’m a bit unsure of how best to do this. 1. In terms of which way around they need fixing, should it be lens first (against the actual helmet) with the foam on top, or the other way around? 2. Should I fix in place with E6000 or strong double sided tape? I need to make the eye holes a little bigger and cut some space for the nose but really pleased with the quality. Any additional advice to the above is appreciated as always. Thanks, Tim Sent from The Empire

As always, thanks, Glen. Sent from The Empire

Ok, so I got my heat gun to start making my V tabs. First and foremost, more for my own curiosity, could someone explain how the V tabs work when they’re in place and how they prevent the butt plate sticking out. I’ve drawn out where I intend to place the V tabs (in blue) as well as where I will need to move my strapping to make way for them (in red). My second question is around this, will moving my strapping from the outer edge mean that the butt plate has a greater risk of moving out of position, even with the V tabs in place? Sent from The Empire

Thanks chaps. Yes, I should have mentioned I haven’t painted my split rivets yet but thanks for the heads up all the same. @glen, just a question on the V tabs, how high would you recommend making the ‘V’? Sent from The Empire

Hey guys, Below are some images of my top half for you to give me some feedback on. In terms of my own observations: 1. I think I need to shorten the elastic between the shoulders and the biceps a little so the biceps sit a bit higher. 2. I think I’ve pulled the shoulder bells to the front too much Also, just a few things for you to keep in mind when considering your feedback: 1. I’ve not added the white elastic to keep the shoulder straps down yet 2. I haven’t got my neck seal on 3. I haven’t got my holster yet 4. At the moment, there is no padding in my helmet so that’s as low as it will sit. Conscious it’s a bit bobble head but not sure how I can get the helmet any lower (short of removing vertebrae in my neck haha) As always, I welcome your thoughts and suggestions. Please judge me at Centurion standard. Thanks all, Tim Sent from The Empire

Thanks as always, fellas. Good to see you back, Jospeh. Sent from The Empire

Hi all, So I’ve trimmed out the ammo belt, drilled out the holes and aligned this to the canvass belt (the centre hole placement aligns to the centre of the canvass belt). As this is RS, it’s not completely symmetrical. My intended approach is to fix the ammo belt in place first and then cut off the corners so they line up to the canvass belt correctly. How does that sound? Thanks. Sent from The Empire

Thanks, Mario. I’m just doing some additional glueing on the sniper knee and will send some more photos once the clamps are off. What are your thoughts on the shoulder bell elastics?