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Everything posted by Mar2D2
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Mar2D2 Requesting Pre-Approval Review (RS Propmasters).
Mar2D2 replied to Mar2D2's topic in Request TK Pre-Approval
Thanks for the advice. I will trim them down to look more like the second image. My personal opinion is, if I cut the trim any shorter than that (although screen accurate) I think it looks unfinished.[emoji16] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk -
Mar2D2 Requesting Pre-Approval Review (RS Propmasters).
Mar2D2 replied to Mar2D2's topic in Request TK Pre-Approval
Just let me know if you need other angles etc. Many thanks, Martyn. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk -
Mar2D2 Requesting Pre-Approval Review (RS Propmasters).
Mar2D2 replied to Mar2D2's topic in Request TK Pre-Approval
Thank you. If I get my basic I will be putting in for my EIB asap. I want to be one of the 1000! [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk -
Mar2D2 Requesting Pre-Approval Review (RS Propmasters).
Mar2D2 replied to Mar2D2's topic in Request TK Pre-Approval
Got the all clear from my UKG armour (CableGuy) yesterday afternoon.[emoji1303] My Application for basic went in last night. [emoji1695][emoji29][emoji1695] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk -
Looks amazing so far mate. Loving the details comparing it to the screen used suits. I know that you are already a member of the 501st. Are you not concerned that this suit may not pass future approval? The reason I ask is related to your arms. I personally love the detail and screen acuracy (again this amount of detail is down to individual personal preference and can be clearly seen in the original movie) yet, I see a lot of build threads where builders are advised to have straight, matching, lined up cover strips. Just putting it out there. Again great job Dan! [emoji1303][emoji122][emoji16] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I would like to go for EIB once I pass basic. I may aim for Centurion in the future, but one step at a time. INFORMATION Name: Martyn Scully. Future garrison: UK Garrison. Armour maker: RS Propmasters. Helmet maker: RS Propmasters. Cloth belt maker: RS Propmasters. Neck seal maker: RS Propmasters. Boot maker: Imperial boots. Interior strapping: original (RS Propmasters) and snap method (own hybrid). Blaster maker: Doopydoos (own customisation). Height: 5 foot 11 inches. Weight: 14stone 13lbs. TK Type: ANH Stunt. Name of troopers who helped: Justjoseph63, Chemi, TKSpartan, Rob.T., gmrhodes13, but mostly CableGuy. Cheers, Mar2D2. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thanks Dan. [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thank you for your kind words T-Jay. I have loved every minute of this build but couldn't of managed it with out so many troopers, like yourself, Dracotrooper, CableGuy, Triumphmark's (to name a few), putting great builds out their to inspire us newbies to have a go. Such a rewarding feeling to complete such a great piece of Star Wars memorabilia. Thanks troopers. (Troopers helping troopers)! Cheers, Martyn. (Mar2D2). Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thank you Dracotrooper. Building this blaster has been great fun. [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Thank you Dracotrooper, means a lot. [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I filled and painted the stock hinge bolts, added counter numbers with clear cover and filled the scope lettering with white crayon. Please let me know what you trooper think. I have also posted a constructed before and after paint pics. Cheers, Martyn (Mar2D2) [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Following advice from Triumphmark over on the UKG, I decided to go with: Handle: black gloss. 'T' tracks: black gloss. Everything else: Flat Matt black. And Silver for the trigger housing, various screws and weathering. I wanted my blaster to look used (Loyaly served the Empire for many years). For the scope, I went against drilling out the sight, as I have been only using items I could find at home. I used CD disc foil on gaffer tape, with red film and clear plastic to try and create a better that silver foil ended scope. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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With all pieces constructed, filled, glued and primed. It was time to paint. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Looking at other blaster images, I decided to make, from scrap armour plastic, the magazine clip. Not sure about actual sizes, but I think it will look ok once painted. I also added a push button from a done nut, a small copper tube, a spring and a screw. The button works, but my skills in being tidy need some work ("off" letters could be neater)! And I made the perspex piece for the back of the counter. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I then decided to work on the power cylinder to try and achieve a more movie accurate appearance. I dremmiled out the moulded cylinders and fashions my own from odd pieces of coloured plastic with green stuff on the end, holding in the wires. I added the side wings from scrap PVC. Created the rear wires from boot laces. I know they are not red, but I thought that this wouldn't matter as I was going to paint them black. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Using more greenstuff, I increased the size of the inner notches on the back cap as well as tighten the gap when the end cap is fitted to the main body of the blaster. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I found the Doopydoos resin kit to have rather a lot of small air bubble holes in it, so I filled as many as I could using green stuff. I added more real screws and created the counters plug pieces from scrap armour cuttings. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Made a scope rail and bracket from a piece of strip aluminium and added some more real screws. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I added small glasses screws to the scope to give that little more of an authentic look. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I added grub screws to the magazine housing and attached to the blaster. Then a magnet to the inside of the magazine to make it removable. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I attached the handle to the main body of the blaster using screws hidden inside the handle. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I made my own trigger guard from aluminium as the doopydoos supplied one seemed rather small. I also used a small spring behind the trigger to allow it to move. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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I sanded and attached using gorilla super glue, the casing and flash guards to the body of the blaster. I made a "D" ring from some wire and cut out the back to accomodatectge ring and holding piece, flush and glued on the rear sight. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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Next I cut out the holding stock and drilled out the holes, I removed the in station fixings from the hinge part of the stock and found that if I use 2 bolts and the thread from kitchen cabinet connectors, this worked really well as a moving part to attach the stock to the gun. I used a small metal pipe from an old lamp (with an opening in the side cut out), a spring from a cheap garden ornament, an Ikea flat pack screw (cut down with hole drilled for attaching another smaller screw. All made it so the smaller screw fits in the barrel inset on the front underside of the gun so it can be pushed back to release the stock from the body of the blaster. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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After lots of sanding, I inserted the barrel, spring and made a cocking handle from a small piece of wood that I attached the handle to using a small screw. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk