MissionTrooper

I'm finding the thighs very restrictive. If I had to chase any rebel scum and they ran up a flight of stairs, they'd get away for sure. The new Centurion CRL for the lower leg armour states "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges.", but I don't see anything for the thighs. I am thinking about cutting them out something like this. Opinions?

After reducing the size of the biceps, I found that they looked too small in relation to the forearms. I've taken them apart again and opened up the bottoms a little bit where they meet the forearms. I'll have to fill a little on the inside, but that won't be noticeable. I'm trying to meet the requirements for the new Centurion CRL. I figure I might as well try and get it right now rather than have to make modifications later.

I wasn't happy with the gap between the shoulders and the chest/back plates which should be minimal, as per the CRL. I have tightened the shoulder bell elastics and I am reducing the biceps a little to try and bring the shoulders in closer.

The shoulder straps are done. I'm at the point where I'm finding I need to redo a couple of things because I'm not quite satisfied with the fit. I made the elastic shoulder straps a little shorter. Next I want to take apart the biceps and make them a little smaller.

Good point. I guess I could use the magnets to make sure it is always aligned the same and velcro to keep it secure.

I was worried I might get it in the wrong position and be asked to move it for approval. The magnets on the armour are attached with 3M double sided tape, so they can be easily moved. I figured if it works for car trim, it should hold up.

Thanks. I think it will work, but time will tell. If I pull it out of position, either up or down, it wants to pop back into place.

Rather than drill holes in the ab and use snaps, I used magnets. I made little pockets using the extra fabric from the belt and used fabric fusion to glue them to the belt. I glued magnets on the inside of the ab piece. The belt just pops into place.

I did some more painting on my bucket. I have it loosely assembled to see what it looks like, but I don't want to mess with it too much for a couple of days to make sure the paint has cured completely.

Thanks guys.

Which bar should be painted black on the ears?

The frown is painted. I always find painting a little fiddly. Does it look like I stopped in the right spot? I noticed that one of the mistakes that gets brought up for Centurion is over painting the frown.

Cool, thanks. Off to buy gloss white . I thought I had some, but just 3 different brands of flat white. Lol

so, I know the three pairs of rivets on the ab plate and the two on the ammo knee should be painted white, but what about the one on the bottom of the ab?

It's been a week since I reinforced the shoulder straps. Some of the E6000 was trapped in airtight pockets and never cured and it softened the HIPS to the point where I was able to put holes in it with my fingernail. Luckily, it came off fairly easily. I'm sure glad I didn't glue them to my armour right away. Lesson learned!

Excellent, thanks!

Board schematic, BOM and code are available here. https://github.com/BipeFlyer/Troopduino I will be updating as I make improvements.

I'll be installing my own homebrew voice changer and I've bought an Aker amp. I see that most people seem to install the amp in their chest, but I find it is a little too thick to fit comfortably. Are there any other ideas? I'm starting to think I may have to design my own amp and put speakers in the bucket. Maybe I should buy Tony's hovi tips and amp, but I like doing things myself when I can. It's more fun that way. Tony; will your hovi tips meet Centurion approval, or are they something you swap in after approval?

I had intended to use Sugru, but when I saw Alay's post I liked the idea of being able to easily change the lenses if they got scratched.

I made the visor removable using Chicago screws, like Alay and TKZombie did. I used this green grinding screen that I saw on another post. Sorry, I can't remember who originally posted it. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003X3UAMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I made EVA foam grommets to help keep the Chicago screws in place and reduce some strain.

I used this elastic. It is very stiff laterally and doesn't pull to the side. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002XNQNNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R3b4CbCYZJ2EM

Thermal detonator is done.

Ab buttons. I made vinyl masks with my Cricut. The edges of the vaccuum forming aren't sharply defined, so I tried to judge where the edge transitioned.

I didn't have any ABS wide enough, so I used HIPS to reinforce the shoulder straps. They feel pretty skookum now.

Belt is done. My local hardware store didn't have any washers the right size for the rivets, so I had to make some. They are ugly, but they'll work. I had to put the washers on the back side because the buttons weren't deep enough to cover them. Drop boxes are aligned with the edges and there are no gaps.