Linus

OK Results are in . Hot water bath was a success. For those worried about their first time doing this, as I certainly was , here's some details. Since my shins are the XL length and I don't have a pot or container big enough, I searched about for alternatives and found a rubber made tool box my Wife uses for craft paints that fit perfectly. I took the lid off, tested it to be sure it wouldn't give way with so much boiling water in it and away I go! I boiled the water for about 3-5 minutes to remove impurities before dipping my precious plastic in there (also boiled the twine I used to hang it) and set off on a number of attempts. This is a big container so I ended up boiling three large kettles worth of water to fill this thing with enough to submerge the calves. Because I was a bit nervous about the cover strip areas being effected by the heat (I had read a thread last night where he indicated he had to redo some), I only submerged them right up to - but not including the return edge for the cover strips. The first two or three attempts seemed to be working but only by a small amount. After the first round of water started cooling, I learned that I had to ensure the water was fully boiling and without delay, quickly submerge them. Additionally, I found the 25-30 seconds others has posted as being sufficient time, wasn't enough for mine. I'm guessing because TM is a bit thicker than some (1.5 mm), I needed to leave them in for about a minute or so before it started making a difference. Next step was to quickly remove, overlap the back calf ends by about 3/4 inch on both ends (tried a bit less at first but it was not enough), tape them in place and swing them over to the sink where I ran cold water over them. Here's the results. They're nearly touching now which is quite an improvement over the two inch gap they previously had! I'm pretty happy and relieved now. Whew... Thanks to Paul (TM) for the slight overlap tip and to Tony for the confidence boost on the hot water bath method. For those with similar concerns, it really wasn't that risky or difficult once I got set up and had a few runs under my belt. The biggest challenge was getting all that water to boil at the same time and smoothly as well as quickly transitioning through each step in the process. I think I'll reserve the heat gun method for a future build Onward to sniper knee!

Yep, figured as much. I'm all for the extra work hence the questions on reshaping. Honestly, my intent is merely to shape this armor as though it was made for me. I did not make them overly snug but I am a bit tall and lean (at least in the limbs ) so I guess that's the trade-off. Thanks for the input Paul! Good to know Tony. I was planning on the Velcro method and I did buy the Industrial Velcro so I should be good then. If it won't hurt, I think I'll do some hot water bath testing starting with the shoulder bridges and the TD plate and if I feel good about what I've learned from that, try a bath or two to shore up the shin gap just a bit. Thanks for the reinforcement!

Shins continued... For the calves (and possibly the thighs?) I've read a lot about the benefit of having inner cover strips to reinforce these pieces, especially the shins as they are the one piece that will have to be expanded to fit over the calf every time you suit up. To that end, I purchased some additional ABS in 2x4 sheets and cut extra inner 20 mm cover strips for the fronts of both shins. Below is the method where you glue 1/2 the cover strip width under one half at a time. Very time consuming (especially if you only have 2 dozen pairs of magnets) but I think it will be a benefit in the long run. Once I had the inner cover strip glued to both halves, it was easy to position the front cover strip. I taped the cover strip in place so I could mark it for final cut length (there's a rounded shape to that end where the ankle area is). This also allowed me to verify one final time, that my cover strip is centered with that slight 2 mm margin equally present on either side, in the middle, where it's the most narrow. Here's the final glue job on the front cover strip. I was intentionally very generous with the glue on both inner and outer shin front cover strips. A look at the finished front of the shins. I have the sniper knee trimmed, fitted and ready to glue but I'm awaiting some shaping input (see next pic) before I glue it on. Below is a pic of my shin gap in the rear. As you can see, they have a gap between the two halves after gluing the front. I've read on a number of build threads that it's wise to give these a hot water bath and bring the two edges together so there is less strain on elastic or Velcro (depending on which is chosen). I'm not going to try a heat gun because that makes me much more worried about making mistakes. I'm hoping some with experience in hot water baths can weigh in and give me some advise. I have a few questions: 1) If I bath them, will that effect the E-6000 glue in any way? 2) The water in our area has both Chlorine and Fluoride additives. I'm thinking I can buy distilled water to avoid this. Any thoughts on whether those will be boiled out or, of not, whether they'll discolor the ABS? 3) Once out of the bath, do I just hold them where I want them? or should I tape them? Any advise on the shaping would be much appreciated as this step has me nervous about making a mistake. Thanks in advance for any/all input!

Confirmed they're currently processing orders (you can now select options and add to cart). Just a note for those attempting to achieve higher levels of TK. Be sure to select the "Classic421" under the Shoes menu. Don't be enticed to select the "T7" as these don't meet CRL's for Basic and Level Two certification due to seam on forward portion of boot and they have a zipper (as opposed to small U-shaped elastic). CRL Quotes specific to this: Small U-shaped elastic section on both sides of ankle There is no seam present on front of the boot

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Shins continued... Started with trimming the rough mold away from the ankles. You can likely see within the Pic, the pencil marks method for marking a cut line using the 90 degree angle between the shin surface and the return edge. I like having a visual line to cut from because the lighting and view angle on this ever so shiny white plastic can cause me to lose sight of the return edge and easily run astray. Here they are all rough trimmed along return edge. Note that any length trimming will wait until I've tape fitted them over boot (and likely finished thigh as well). No hurry on the length as yet since I can fit them over my boots and adjust as needed for circumference trimming. I found an old Protractor within the tools I inherited from my Father and used that with trusty pencil attached to define the cut-line/distance for trimming the upper shin, return edge. I had seen this method used within a few of the pinned build threads and it has served me well (versus trying to free-hand it in some of the more defined areas). Here's a pic of before (left) and after (right) trimming upper return on Shins. You can see I left about a 3/16, 1/4 inch return which is pretty consistent with the movie reference pics I've been able to find. Inserting a step I had forgotten. A note on this inserted step: It's important to start your measurements, fitment and cuts on the front of the shins first. Once you have your front cover strip - 'ramp' measured per the size of your cover strips (mine are the standard 20 mm) to include sizing for larger cover strips if you have to due to having a larger calf or to avoid making shims?, you can then tape up the front and size/measure and cut the rear. The reason is, most of the final sizing is best reserved for the back since that's where the most material is. Another note on the front shin cuts and sizing. You'll notice in the below picture, I have my score-line (trim line) going vertically down the 'cover strip 'ramp'. Yet, the return edges of this cover strip 'ramp' are not straight. Rather, they flare outward at the top and bottom. My approach to this was to center on the middle portion of the calf and make two equal measurements (about 3 to 4 inches apart - where the edge is the most narrow. I measured inward from that cover strip return edge about 1-2 mm and that mark was my outer edge for the cover strip, leaving a slight margin between the edge of the cover strip and the edge of the cover strip 'ramp'. I noticed some prefer to take the cover strip straight to the edge. My reasoning was, I thought it would look a little cleaner and more uniform to leave a bit of a margin on either side of the cover strips to more more or less match the upper and lower margin-appearance. After tape fitting sessions with my Wife being kind (and patient) enough to measure the overlap between top of shin and bottom of shin while I modeled them, I made my marks for cutting the circumference. The ankle I left fairly snug over my TK Boots (more on this problematic area later on). The top is a "snug but not too tight" fit so my calf can feel the armor but it's not overly pressing. The Pic shows a slight change in my clamping strategy. With previous parts such as the Biceps and Forearms, the length was short enough where I could clamp each piece directly to the table under my metal ruler and score (the cut line) in a very secure way. Not such with the Shin parts. Given their length and curve, there was too much stress on the plastic so I used yet another method learned from various build threads on this site and "floated" the ruler and clamps onto the plastic itself. This does not make for a very stable work area so be sure to follow the wealth of advise on FISD and make very slow - light cuts at first. I found that I needed to run about 4-6 score lines atop one another to achieve a decent score and snap of these curvy pieces. Additional note: For the upper ridge area, I used the Lexan scissors to cut around those edges (rather than attempting to score with knife). More to follow in the cover strips and gluing of the shins...

Well now, what's this? A neglected build thread? Yep, guilty. You may recall me referencing a summer task of building another retaining wall in my yard this summer? Well, turns out I got all the major yard upgrades done this summer, minus the retaining wall. Apparently there's this key tendon in your shoulder called the "Supraspinatus" which is one of two tendons in your shoulder (Rotator cuff) that can be torn... Turns out, I have a partial tear. Yep, those retaining wall stones are heavy and yes, I over did it. After about 4 weeks of pain, I go in to see the Dr. and She diagnosed it as Tendonitis and prescribed exercises. After a week of excruciating pain, I return and tell her I can't perform the exercises properly because I can't raise the arm, it hurts too much and seems to be getting worse. Then comes the MRI, then comes the tear-diagnosis. I guess you have to have more of a tear than I do to rate surgery (which I think is a good thing for me) given it's 'minor'. I gotta say, I'm no stranger to pain and my tolerance is pretty high but, oh man does this tear hurt. An example of what little it takes to aggravate the shoulder; I can sneeze, causing the muscle to involuntarily tighten and that will bring tears (of the watery persuasion and yes, also involuntary) to my eyes for a full minute after... No fun at all! So, I get a cortisone injection next week. Hopefully, that promotes the healing. From what I've learned so far, Rotator-cuff tears take a long time to recover. Be that as it may, it will not prevent me from progressing my build, 1 1/2 handed or not. Onward with the Shin progress.

Roger that, appreciate the clarification. Thanks Daniel!

Yep, thanks Tony. Seen those and I'd add a wider view of the one you have above with a few more standing to the left which really calls out how much the gap varies in the movie. From left to right: Trooper #1 has significant gap on left leg, #2 has minimal gap that looks the best (and probably hobbles about a lot), #3 has significant gap on both legs, and #4 has a very nice minimal on both (but probably rubs pieces together every time he walks). With your input, I think I'll wait to trim the length and determine positioning on the lower leg until I can get the thigh and sniper knee in place, then pick the position that allows adequate movement - walking and climbing steps with as minimal gap as possible. On another note. I forgot to ask about fitment. circumference-wise. I haven't been able to find much referencing the fit on the calves, unlike the arms, thighs and torso. I know to fit the pieces on my leg and shore them in to my size and shape using tape, then measure the excess the needs to be trimmed (I actually use the ukswrath-anovos method of overlap-measurement-divide by half-cut) so to be clear on fitment, I'm looking for how snug or loose the piece should be not the contour to my leg - shape. I'm guessing I can have the calves a bit more snug as compared to other pieces? or should it be loose and leverage the boot to somewhat hold it up leaving a finger or two gap and shore up inside with foam. etc. ? Sorry if I see to be beating this one to death. With each component, I go back to my list of build favorites and scour through that section, taking note of any significant influences and tips. If I don't find references (and I dig a fair amount) I like to call them out in my build with the hope of filling in gap on topics not often discussed and of particular interest to a newer builder (like myself).

3. Shins/Calves: A note on Shin Pieces. I ordered an XL Shin with my TM kit which is 17" giving me plenty of length to trim if needed and I'm 6'2. I'm well into the left Shin/Calf trimming and measuring but I don't want to go much further without clarifying a few things. I'll attempt to frame up the question(s); For length's sake, how low should shin/calf sit on the upper calf leg to allow for movement and bending of the leg as I walk? I'm attempting a tape-fitting, with under armor and boot on and my preference is to move the calf up into the bend behind my knee but then I have to drop it some in order to actually bend my knee. Is there a rule of thumb on how far back your lower leg should be able to move? I noticed in a few references, there is a fair bit of black showing behind the knees between the thigh and calf. In fact, a number of the movie photos show the left thigh to be a bit shorter than the right to make room for the sniper knee (which also seems to have them shifting the calf downward to make room for this too). My instinct is to minimize this gap but not to the point of compromising movement. So, what's a good compromise between minimizing black and being able to bend far enough to walk decently without looking like C-3PO hobbling about? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or insights!

ThankYeSir!

Yes he has! Lovin it so far! Thanks Dan, truly appreciate the praise given your work and experience! #BigFan

Here are the finish pics of forearms. Overall, I think they turned out pretty well. I had the cover strip on the left-front forearm, upper portion shift while drying. Figured out why; the 7/8 magnets were just a bit too wide for the left forearm - inner cover strip ridge (which is ever so slightly slimmer than the right forearm) and this caused the magnets to push the two pieces apart within that raised ridge area, leaving the cover strip offset on the upper portion. While it's not absolutely necessarily, I'm going to add inner cover strips as well to reinforce and fill in that inner ridge area opposite the outer cover strip. Top View: Wrist View: Outer Forearm: I love the tapered shape of these molds! Inner Forearm: Forearms lessons learned: The cover strip area (where the upper forearm has a ridge of sorts for the cover strip to run along) having been trimmed down to align with 15 mm cover strips, is too narrow for my 7/8 magnets to fit flat. On the second forearm, this resulted in the two halves spreading a part underneath the cover strip due to the magnets pushing outward on the narrow channel. If I were to glue the narrow areas such a forearm again, I'd look for square magnets (or smaller round ones) that fit within the 15 mm / 1/2 channel. Note: Found some! Bought 16 - 1"x.5"x1/8 square magnets (which I'll likely use on the shins).

Trudging along a bit slowly of late with other things distracting me from my true goal *coughs the word armor* but I did manage to progress a fair amount on the forearms this week! A note on trimming and tools. If you ask someone or read their build thread on their trim process for getting from out of the box to final finishing, you're likely to get six different answers from four or five of them. That obviously changes a bit with which pieces your working on but I'm no different with my growing arsenal of tools in that my answer is growing and diverse... While I am only two components into my build, I've developed my preferred process which so far, based on the biceps and forearms size - cutting needs, has been: Rough trim with Lexan scissors, score n snap (if it's a straight edge since I'm not too comfortable with the curvy stuff as yet) and follow up sanding. On the follow up sanding I use a folded square of sandpaper for small or narrow areas of work, a flat piece on the workbench surface, a small file set for tight work, a handy sanding sponge for cleaning up edges and rotary sanding tools for the larger areas needing removal. On the rotary sanding tools (see the big bench model I posted a pic of earlier in my thread), it just feels more natural for me to have the sanding device mounted and steadfast while I move the armor piece about on the tool (as opposed to moving the tool over the armor). This seems to afford me more control and I can take off very small amounts whereas, when I've tried the dremel in-hand, I don't feel as comfortable or confident (or practiced). To that end, the curved areas of the forearm armor are a bit smaller than the biceps so I was looking for sanding drum size options to allow me to handle slighter curves and found the following inexpensive kit: These drums come in the normal dremel size 3/4?, 1 inch, 1.5 inch and a 2 inch drum with both 80 and 120 bit sand paper. The only problem I had to overcome, given my preference for static mounted sanding tools was, the larger drum bits were too thick to fit in the dremel so I had to attach them to a drill. My cordless drill would have mounted to something just fine but I found the RPM to be a bit faster than what I need for plastic work so I pulled out an old workhorse of a drill I've had for years and mounted that to a jig. I was able to leverage the smaller drums to form up a finished return edge for the upper forearms and fine tune the lower forearm - wrists without taking any length from them. Works great! 2. Forearms: Started off already having trimmed the forearms with Lexan scissors (removing the extra mold plastic). Next I used the 2 inch sanding drum to sand down the upper forearm return edge. I ended up leaving about 3/16 or so return which is pretty uniform with what I did on biceps (no pics of the inner-upper half but I'll show a finished product pic further down in this section). Here's a picture of the upper-outer forearm half. This was a combination of 2 inch drum and small file set for the bridge area, curves. On the wrists, I experimented with that "no return edge" requirement for Centurion a bit. I wanted to see if I could leave a slight knurl-edge that would not show as a return but perhaps leave as much length as possible, have a nice rounded edge that would not be rough on the wrist and strengthen the wrist edge too. Unfortunately, all that work was for not because it still showed up as a return edge, however slight (see below). In the end, I ended up removing the return edge. That 2 inch drum made both processes pretty easy. Prepping the "Knurled" edge: You can still see a slight return edge on the finished product (left hand side of pic), preparation using rounded files (on right hand side of pic): Final cuts to circumference was using the score n snap method with a slight difference in how I did the biceps. Instead of clamping to the table, because they're longer and have a bevel-curve to the shape, I "free-float" clamped them to the ruler. I learned this from another build thread and it was very helpful - sorry I can't recall the reference: Next was to cut 15 mm cover strips for both front and back of each forearm. A little note on cheating the cover strip size here. The upper edges of the forearm that will join together have that ridge that the cover strip sits on and, as it's likely with most kits, that ridge gets wider as it it goes up the forearm to match the overall width and shape of one's arm. Since I didn't want to modify the width of the upper forearm here and risk a more 'cylindrical' look I was hoping for that ridge and the cover strip edge to be pretty uniform for a nice clean look so I cut my 15 mm cover strips ever so slightly wider on one end. They're 15 mm at the wrist and gradually go to 16/17 mm width at the upper forearm. This only partially accomplished what I intended because there is still a greater area between the ridge-edge and the cover strip edge but I knew any more than 2 mm and it would be noticeable (and deviate from cannon) so I decided to compromise with a slight imperceptible alteration. Not sure if it's much of an improvement. My final photos, soon to follow because the inner halves are still drying, will hopefully tell that story Last step was to glue em together. I'll upload some pics of the gluing and final product shortly.

Time to wrap up the bicep section with some lessons learned. On a side note, I left the 3/16 return on both upper and lower edges of biceps but I'll likely do one of two things to those return edges as I gain more experience wearing them and moving in them; A) Remove the upper returns if they, in any way, impede movement, comfort or add to the gap between shoulder bell and chest plate, reinforce the return area gap where both pieces come together with some ABS paste. Otherwise, in the interim, I'll attempt to maintain some level of uniformity by doing the same on the forearms. Lessons learned: When using the score and snap method, depending on how deep you go, the edge of the cut line can flare out resulting in a nice little raised ridge along the length of where the blade ran. This seems more likely to occur as your blade gets dull. Don't underestimate the length of the cover strips. Measure multiple times and even when you cut, do so ever so slightly larger, then re-measure before gluing. A very thinly spread layer of glue is in fact enough to strongly secure the ends. After handling the biceps and forearms quite a bit, I'm pretty confident in the strength of these joints. I continued to use a flat edged Popsicle sticks to spread the glue pretty thinly (on both surface and cover strip). The glue gets perfectly tacky in the few minutes that it takes to spread it on and this makes applying the cover strip nice and easy. The added benefit is, I had minimal glue squeezing out from the ends. Note: I'm using the "High Viscosity version of E-6000 glue but I'm really not sure if that is making a difference in the run-factor or ability to spread it thinner. I just know it's staying where I spread it!

That makes perfect sense Joseph. I also left a slight return on the bottom of my biceps to provide the thickness illusion/thicker look and I'm equally of the mind that the bicep upper returns will not be of benefit from a visual perspective. Although the upper bicep is not a good example in that the return edge will actually increase the circumference and as a result, push shoulder bells further out, here's some insight into my additional rationale for leaving returns where I can, merely for the purposes of debate All around uniformity That illusion of thickness Can add a bit (however slight) to the overall length of that piece if, for instance, a person is taller/longer of limb than what the piece was intended. The benefit being, to reduce or minimize some of that black area (gap) between pieces, providing overall fit-symmetry. and, of potentially benefit which is the (admittedly debatable) centering effect on the limb. Now, I'm not sure, having no applied experience wearing the armor as yet but my thinking is, it can help to fit the limb more symmetrically as an outer layer, conforming to ones shape if there is a return edge thus enhancing the fit-appearance on the person. To be clear, I'm not sure how much this 'centering' aspect is a benefit as yet but I can say I've seen examples of loosely fit armor 'hanging' to one side or the other like a straight pipe on ones arm where a return edge might have at least centered the pipe preventing it from leaning against one side of the limb or other... That, however, is treating the symptom versus the cause (too loosely fit armor) right? In the end, it's how you indicated, mostly personal preference as related to comfort and fit except where removal is required, just providing a few more considerations for thought...

Bought some more magnets so I can do more than one joining edge at a time. Here are pics of the finished biceps. I can show pictures angles of where the return-edge ends and the cover strips begin if needed because I'm a little unsatisfied with how the upper return edges kinda stick out at odd angles where the joining sides meet. I realize these won't even show being under the shoulder bell but I was considering whether I should take a hot iron to those return edges to perhaps mold them down to a slightly flatter angle or contour that is closer to the cover strips. Thoughts and opinions are appreciated. Thanks in advance! Biceps - Front: Biceps - Back:

Recommend you read from a number of build posts (particularly the pinned ones in green cause they're quite good) to get a feel for how and what people present. Then you can decide on your particular style and how you want to present. As Wook indicated, by far the most important thing - post lotsa pictures and pose any/all question you have. This will remove any doubt because the folks here are great at helping.

1. Biceps: Finally found some time to progress on the biceps this weekend. I took equal portions (nearly 20mm) off both inner and outer halves and not surprisingly, the upper edges came together quite nicely. I was a bit curious if that would be the result and although I wasn't planning for them to match up so nicely, it confirms that the molds are fairly symmetrical. Used the score and snap method with a straight edge to make final circumference cuts: Used the scissors to cut into the return edge, meeting up with score line. Ended up cutting a 'V" shape out so that I could snap the plastic away from the core line and not stress the rounded corner so much: Here's a front view of left and right biceps with final tape fitting and 15mm cover strip sizing: Here's a rear view of same. Note the unexpected/bonus alignment on top! Don't know why I'm so pleased about that... heh. I roughed up either edge with 100 grit sandpaper making sure to not score the surface beyond where the cover strips would cover. Did the same with the glue side of the cover strip. Here's my first glue attempt. Positioning-wise, I think it turned out really well. All edges of the cover strip are making nice contact and there are no gaps in the two halves as all edges came together pretty well given I used a straight edge to make cuts. I used a mini wood Popsicle stick to spread the E6000 evenly onto both surfaces. My only concern is, did I apply enough glue? I spread it fairly thin so as to avoid it squeezing out and making a mess. By the time I put the pieces together, it was pretty tacky, I just hope it was enough to form a good bond. Time will tell Going to have to buy some more magnets if I'm going to glue more than one joint at a time. I'll likely have to put these in a hot water bath to provide a bit more oval shape to fit my biceps but I want to see how they fit with shoulder and forearm in place first.

Yep, I was looking for fit/fitment feedback. I'll try to be a little more clear in the future on look versus fit. About the only "look" factors for the biceps are, as you both mentioned (above and in TM's Hero build on FB) ensuring both halves are aligned at the bottom as well as how much return edge one decides on. I may remove the upper return edges entirely based on comfort and movement and leave that return at the bottom as I mentioned above. Yep, I plan to take off equal amounts from the inner and outer halves making sure it's symmetrical (no mismatch) and parallel with that outer ridge so that the cover strips retain a nice vertical alignment with the overall bicep. I'll try the "lift your arms up to remove your helmet" tip and see how they move. I had not given movement much thought as yet so I'm really glad you brought that up! It's not like I'm making this for a mannequin lol. Thanks for the guidance gents! I feel much more comfortable with the next steps in trimming for fit.

Thanks Tony! Yea I'll likely leave the offset length as is and bring the cover strip up to match the lowest point of overlap. Does the fit look ok in terms of the diameter at the bottom and top? About 1-2 finger gap at bottom and easily two fingers at the top. Not too snug?

OK, I'm back. Had to step away for a good portion of the summer and focus on some yard tasks (tearing down my back deck, removing a portion of the retaining wall, all to make way for a new 1000 square foot stamped patio that was poured two weeks ago and then standing up a storage shed and starting another/new retaining wall on the side of the house). Busy and tired, all the while thinking I gotta knock out the to-do list out so I can get back to the armor! I finished trimming and sanding the top and bottom of both biceps. I decided to leave a minimal 1/8-3/16 inch return on both top and bottom edges for now to provide that thickness illusion. I may remove some or all of it depending on comfort and shoulder bell impact. Now I'm attempting the fitting/sizing. I need some help determining if the sizing is right. I took a couple of photos with it taped up. As far as overlap, there's currently about an inch of overlap on the bottom (both sides) and a little over an inch overlap at the top. I had to loosen it up on first attempt so I could slide it off because it was too tight to slide past the forearm. As far as gap between armor and bicep, I'd say there's a good two fingers gap at the top and perhaps 1-2 fingers at the bottom of the bicep. Tried it with forearm straight/un-flexed as well as forearm bent/bicep flexed and it feels pretty good, albeit without any other armor on. Want to be sure I'm not making them too tight though. In this pic from the top, I can easily fit two fingers in the top gap. I did shore it up slightly more than what it was when top and bottom were evenly overlapping but when I put my arm to my side, the upper portion flared out such that I fear it will push my shoulder bell outward too much so I moved/overlapped the top in a bit more: In this pic, you can see it's pretty well fitted to the bottom (one finger gap when I flex) and a bit more gap at the top: Since this is my first component fitting, I want to be a little cautious and avoid any mistakes. Please lemme know what you all think.

That's true. I don't know if you've watched the TK1636 youtube video series for building TK armor. That guy is a score and snap and belt sanding beast. Makes me cringe when I see him bending that armor about and taking pretty large swaths of armor away on each sander pass but he's admittedly well practiced. I take it very slow, precise swipes which takes a fair amount of time but that's because I sand, check, sand, check again, sand a little more, etc. As long as patience is the rule, it seems to be working well. That won't obviously work for the smaller areas but it's definitely saving me time on the larger surfaces.

I think you're right on as far as the degree of weathering. Less is more. There's a few pics where it looks like these guys were engaged in a mud wrestling which I can't see as realistic. A professional soldier, such as an Imperial Stormtrooper, is not going to walk around for long with a a huge amount of mud splotches on his armor. Either he or is peers/superior are going to remark on his sloven appearance and demand that he police that *%#*.

hehe, I'm on it thanks Tony! Just got another project (putting up the foundation and a 8x11 ft yard shed) I gotta knock out then I can afford to focus on armor Trimmed the biceps to about 1/16/1/4 (minimal) return using a larger belt sander versus rotary tool. I've found that the rotary tool takes a faster bite and harder to control whereas the larger 2" belt affords me a more forgiving sanding surface for finishing the edge after a cut. Just gotta take it nice and slow... I'll post pics later this weekend.