Copper

I'm at the same point with my shoulder bridges. I found that it depends on how they look when placed on the chest plate. I thought I had trimmed down the shoulder bridges enough, but realized they were too wide when I taped them on for sizing/position. I trimmed of a little more and now they're fine. The Lexan scissors worked great. Good luck. Copper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Paul. I added some room between the back plate and the kidney with slightly longer straps. I still have the issue with the sides not lining up, but I think it's a size issue. I'll try adjusting the straps and "sucking it in" a little bit. Once I get that sorted, I'll get the shoulder bridges in place and post some pictures.

Another question - since I'm taller than the average TK, the space between the chest plate and back plate at the shoulders is more than the average. The shoulder straps/bridges cover the gap, but only with a couple bumps on either end. Is it allowable to glue the elastic to the under side of the shoulder bridges? The shape doesn't match the elastic so the elastic will be easily visible and the CRL requires white elastic. I know they need to be free-floating over the back plate, which I can still do. Thanks for the advice.

A little more progress: Boots ordered from Imperial Boots Rivets and flexible hand guards ordered from justjoseph Neck seal and holster ordered from Darman Torso is all strapped and this is my first fitting with straps and not tape. Thighs should be ready to go tomorrow: Can anybody suggest something to get better alignment on the side seams? Maybe just tighter elastic where there's a gap? Not so many potato chips? The return edges aren't 90 degrees, so it doesn't seem like I can just line them up and pull them tight together. Bucket has been stripped of straps, lens, and foam and prepped for black lining. Still deciding which route to go for that. Any suggestions are welcome! I've read that Plastidip is not good for breathing in confined spaces. Rustoleum spray paint? Thin, dark foam layers glued in? Not sure yet. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Making some progress. Snaps and elastic strapping are coming along. I found the answer to my rivet question (should be 5/16 diameter head). I'll need to order those on Trooperbay. Drilled the holes for the belt snaps. Luckily TM has the location marked. It's still nerve-wracking drilling into the armor though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went to the hardware store today to get the split rivets, "Chicago" rivets, and TD screws. Research has told me 5/16 split rivets. The only thing they had were 1/8" x 5/16", and the heads looked very small compared to everyone's photos. Can somebody tell me the proper head diameter, or is that the 5/16 measurement? The Chicago rivets and TD screws are good to go. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The overlap was just for sizing and the photo. Everything I've done so far has been butt-jointed (hoping for Centurion down the road). Thanks for the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the photo the two raised halves of the joining strip are overlapped. I haven't trimmed them down yet, so I still have some flexibility to have a little more room. I don't want a really wife raised part behind the joint strip, so I'll have to play around with the width of the joint strip too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's my left leg. (The shorts are running shorts, so they're thin and won't change the fit). My thigh is against the ABS, but not too snug. I still have to trim the top and raised joint edges so it's even. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback and tips, everyone. Struck out on finding anything larger than a 10-pack of Tandy 24's in stores. Ended up ordering 50 on Amazon for $25. No 2" nylon strapping either, so I'm trying the double-snap method with 1" strap turned sideways and cut in 2" lengths. Hopefully it has enough surface area to stay glued to the ABS. I used the old pliers, nail, and a candle-trick to make holes for the snap posts. First 4 sets of snaps are glued into the kidney and butt. I'll measure and cut elastic, add snaps, and see how they work tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sizing and gluing the thighs. TM kit should be a good fit for my runner thighs without too much trimming. My wife isn't happy about my commandeering the kitchen counter, but that's where the hot water is! Needed to bend the tops of the thigh backs to get them to line up. Shopping trip later for elastic, snaps, straps, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Two snaps on each side of a joint (4 total) on the same piece of elastic? Can you share a photo?

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If you're using E6000 for the first time, like me, here's something I learned quickly: when you have excess E6000 squirt out of the joints, don't try to wipe it off right away. It makes a worse mess. Let it get tacky for a couple of hours, or even for several hours, then peel it off. It comes off like the glue used to hold a new credit card to the paper when the bank sends it to you. Question - I'm looking ahead to the snaps for connecting the pieces. What thickness of ABS do people use for attaching the snaps to the inside of the armor? I'll need to order some from somewhere. TM sent some spare pieces with my kit, but I needed to use some for a forearm strip. Thanks!

Made my first real cuts for sizing, other than cutting off the vacuum form edges. Biceps and forearms are ready for gluing (clamps here are just holding the strips on - they aren't glued yet). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tips. So far I've only trimmed off the vacuum form edge. I've started to fit and tape the forearms and biceps and it looks like I'll need to trim them down more, so 15mm should work for those. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can anyone give me a breakdown of the correct widths for all the cover strips? I've seen different numbers in different places here. Thanks.

Got my BBB from TM and I'm diving in...slowly and apprehensively. I'll be using TM's Hero build on FB as photo references, and GodofLibra's build thread and TK1386's videos on YouTube for reference, along with lots of feedback from the FISD I hope. First night at it tonight and I trimmed the shoulder straps and shoulder bells. A long way to go, but I'll get there. I don't think my wife knew what she signed up for when I got the blessing to order my kit. -Copper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PART RT-MOD AM Length of Thighs 13 13 Length of Calves 14 14.5 Length of Bicep + Shoulder Bell 18 15 Length of Forearm 11 10.25 Circumference of forearm 14 16 Circumference of Thigh 26 29 Circumference around Calf Muscle 18 21.5 Circumference around Bicep Muscle 18 18.5 Waist 41 42 Cod and abdomen pieces combined height 21.5 20.5 Kidney and butt pieces combined height 20.5 19 Chest Height 12.5 12 Chest Width 18 24.5 Back Height 11 13.5 Back Width 16 23 This was posted back in 2011. I know RT is on to version 7 now. Does anybody have updated measurements AND does anybody have measurements to compare for TM armor? (TM is a busy guy, otherwise I would ask him directly.)

I emailed TM today asking about ordering a kit. Thanks for the info everybody. Tony, I'll be following your TM build for tips!

So, I've read a bunch of posts about armor and how the originals were made for 5'10" actors. I've looked at submissions for EIB and Centurion approval, and asked several people about different armors. Finally, I'll post my question here: Which armor is the best fit for a 6'3" (190cm) 190 pound guy? I'm looking for a kit to build myself and, like everybody else, want it to look as good as possible with no gaps. Any help is appreciated. If you have photos of your own kit and you're about my size, I'd love to take a look. Feel free to send me a message or post to the board. Thanks for all your help!!! -Copper