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Interesting. So, you just pounded the female end of the snap right into the belt? And do these male ends hold well with the E6000?

Beautiful, just what I was looking for regarding Chicago snaps - thanks! As for the belt to armor... errr,... I don't know about snaps just yet. I think I'll try velcro and see how it goes. But, I do see your point - I am just awful at building, so the less drilling, the better.

Every time I feel like I am getting close, there's another setback! Building a TK Stunt, and I have question number 9,845... I do not have Anovos armor, so my abdomen plate does not provide any way to connect the belt to the armor. I know this is not required, but when trying on the armor with belt, the belt seems to be sliding around too much - and this is without the weight of the TD yet. Plus, to keep the belt on firmly, I have to tighten it so much that it causes the kidney and abdomen to overlap around the sides. My question is - is it a good idea to have a velcro connection between the belt and the abdomen plate? Another question - does anyone use Chicago screws to hold the belt face and canvas belt together? And what length?

I've posted a number of these little nit picky questions, but I need help, and maybe they'll help other nubes like myself. Anyway, I am looking to attach my plastic belt face to the canvas belt. I read on another post that someone used jean buttons. Has anyone used these, or a similar type of button? I want something to hold firm, but not too difficult to attach, or would scratch the abdomen plate like a rivet.

Thanks, fellas! I also found an old one I looked at in the beginning of my build - by Pandatrooper. Helpful, but yes, they all make it look so easy! I need a video made by a doorknob like myself who'll make it easier to follow

I am so geeked! As geeked as a 46 year old man who has had his kit for five years can be I am nearly finished with most of the body/arms/legs. I have an ATA kit, so the helmet is something I have to put together myself. I have a few questions about the helmet, as per my normal posts on here. 1. I am doing an ANH TK Stunt. From what I know, all of the markings need to be hand painted, correct? I have a stencil set already, but I thought I saw somewhere that the mouth can be cut every other piece with a black grill put in behind it - to allow for a little ventilation. Is this correct, or does the mouth have to be completely kept on and painted? 2. I am looking for the best tutorials that even the dumbest, least skilled builder can follow... ok, this isn't a question - it's more of a plea for help! 3. Who can put me on to the best place to buy the liner for fitting on the inside of the helmet? 4. I know I have another question that I have forgotten about, so if you love helping people like me, keep an eye out on this post. Thanks! You guys (and ladies) are the best, and so helpful on here!!! You honestly give me hope that there are more good people in this world

The metal is too strong to make any adjustments. And yes, the holes were already drilled when I got them. It will be just yet another friggin thing I have to do twice, but I think I can level it out well enough if I take off the panel, and level off that one edge. As for the second screw, I'll try to use pliers to screw the one in from the side. That part is a screw up by the maker I ordered from.

No, that's the problem - I've already drilled the holes, and when I screwed them in, it was way off. Plus, it is physically impossible to get the second screw into one of the clips where the hole is placed. The only thing I can do is take off the panel, maybe tweak it so the clips lay level. I took some better photos - I've circled and lined the difference in the level of the clips. My panel may not be perfectly straight, but it's not off by THAT much. I could maybe take off the panel and level it to make the clips hang at the same level. However, I know I am not crazy when this shows how the second hole for the screws makes it impossible to screw in that second screw. https://imgur.com/a/fLfozpz

A while ago, I ordered thermal detonator clips from a very reputable member. I do not want to mention a name, because I am not sure this is an issue yet. However, I did not notice until now, after I drilled and screwed in the clips for my thermal detonator, that they are quite asymmetrical. I lined them up correctly - this is not the issue - the issue is that I believe these clips are faulty. Plus, the holes for one of the screws is directly underneath the clamp, and I would not be able to get the screw in without bending the clamp. Please tell me I am wrong, or if this is an issue with the clip maker, and I deserve replacements. I am already a bit peeved, since there is a chance I'll have to do a whole new TD because of this. Images are on here to show the issue. Thanks!

Thanks! Your's aren't touching the end caps. Are they supposed to be a little off of the caps?

Since you've been so helpful, I wanted to ask another question - the first of many more I'll have in my stretch run between here and making my helmet. I have adjusted the snaps to close the gap between my back and kidney plates, and I'm waiting for the glue to dry. In the meantime, I am trying to finish my thermal detonator. I'm about to drill the holes for the screws. I know that I need to use the correct size bit, so that the screw grips the tube. However, is that going to hold, or should I put a little glue around the screw to help it stay in place?

Since you've been so helpful, I wanted to ask another question - the first of many more I'll have in my stretch run between here and making my helmet. I have adjusted the snaps to close the gap between my back and kidney plates, and I'm waiting for the glue to dry. In the meantime, I am trying to finish my thermal detonator. I'm about to drill the holes for the screws. I know that I need to use the correct size bit, so that the screw grips the tube. However, is that going to hold, or should I put a little glue around the screw to help it stay in place?

Thanks I actually have been putting on just the undersuit for fitting - I just got lazy this time when I wanted to take a few photos. The gap is the same in my t-shirt or the suit, so it's all the same - but, thanks for the info

Yeah, that's the one I was concerned with, as well. You were clear enough - I just like to double double check!

Yes, I do have another question - just to clarify. The part I circled in orange - that is what I need to close in a little more? I was worried about that, and it is already snapped. Another member told me it was fine, but I'd like it to look better. I can take those snaps off relatively easily and move them to make that a tighter fit. I am guessing that could make everything else move up, and I've already snapped the cod piece and tail bone together. However, that might be a bit loose, so moving up the kidney plate might actually work better anyway. https://imgur.com/a/x7B5Bm0

One other thing, Dan. I actually misspoke... actually, mistyped. I know that can overlap, but I mistakenly called it the chest plate, when I meant the AB plate and the kidney plate overlap. Someone else already said I need to butt join those two, and that was the question I meant to ask.

Thanks, Dan! I would love to have the skills to go Centurion, but honestly, I am absolutely the least handy person in the history of tools. My arms and legs are probably already closer to Sandtrooper level than TK Hero Centurion level. However, I do thank you immensely for the advice and encouragement.

1st question, probably the most obvious one I already know the answer to: Should the curve of the chest plate match up with the bottom edge of the kidney plate, the area near my ring finger? I am guessing that should line up. 2nd question: Can I overlap the chest plate over the kidney plate, or should I trim the kidney plate to go butt to butt against the chest plate? I am not going for Centurion, and just connecting them with snaps and straps.

Thanks all! Much better than mixing the paste for such a small thing. I appreciate the help

I had to re-size my upper body, and while removing the shoulder straps, one of them suffered this small hairline fracture (at least I knew the glue job was a good one!) Is this worth mixing some ABS paste as a 'nip it in the bud' kind of thing?

Ah, interesting. Going with both - I like that. I think that's how I will go. Thanks! I can always count on the good people here

What works best for connecting the arms to shoulders - one friend suggested the hook on the bicep to hang on the shoulder bell. Another says to simply glue straps from shoulder bells to biceps to forearms - all in one piece. Your thoughts? I am building an ANH-TK.

I was originally going to be an ESB TK Trooper, but I am switching to ANH. I bought an ESB blaster, but I've heard that I can add some things to modify it for ANH. Other than Doopy Doos (which is out of stock right now), does anyone know of where I can acquire the necessary parts to make this switch? Thanks!

Hello All! I originally bought a blaster to be an ESB Trooper, but I am switching to ANH. Can someone steer me to anyone who might sell the parts needed to modify my blaster to ANH? Thanks!

Forgive all of these posts, but people on here are so helpful, and I want to get this right! My question du jour is about connecting the shoulder bells to the shoulder bridge that goes between the back and chest plate, AND connecting biceps to forearms. I was just about to put snaps on the strap of the shoulder bell, but I just watched TrooperBay's video, and he glues the strap into the shoulder bell, AND glues the entire arm armor together. Of course, I know to snap the strap to the shoulder bridge between chest and back, but I was about to put snaps on the other end of the strap to snap into the shoulder bell, and snap the forearms and biceps. Is E6000 glue strong enough to hold the strap to the shoulder bell AND glue for connecting upper and lower arm armor? I mean, if TrooperBay did it, I'd think it's ok. Your thoughts?