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The Captain

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by The Captain

  1. Good news guys: Just got approved! I am now TK-17042! Thanks for all of the help!
  2. TK-17042 reporting in from the Southern California Garrison. Legion Page: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=28552 Thank you! - WT
  3. It just makes things kinda hard after having an issue. Got followed around for about a year. It's not a hard set "show your face and you're fired", but rather "please don't make it easy for someone to track you". Once I officially become a member, I can explain it to them as a "I'm in a non-profit" so I'll get more leeway. But even then, I don 't have any social media, and I try to be hard to recognize on anything I do post. Believe me, its a huge pain. If I could, I wouldn't bother. Yup, I followed the page my garrison has, and they said to fill out the form and immediately send the pictures to the GML email address they had posted. I did both of those 12 days ago, so I was just wondering if any else had to wait a similarly long time. On the site it says that it can take up to three weeks, so I guess I'll wait until that time before emailing them again.
  4. Just a thing with my job. I need to try and not post my face/voice online if possible, so I'm only sending the unedited ones to my GML. Speaking of which, I submitted my application 12 days ago, but haven't heard back (save the auto-reply email from the 501st website). Should I send a "what's up" email, or wait the full 3 weeks before checking in again? - The Captain
  5. I don't know if you can see it well, but the metal is a little rolled up on the edges. At that angle, it makes it look like more of a gap than it really is. I'll take a more straight-on shot when I go for L2/L3, so it's not as misleading. Thanks for the heads up! - The Captain
  6. New photos with the basic approval stuff fixed. (Don't know why the first one is yellow ish) Please tell me what you think! - The Captain
  7. I actually had problems with my ab plate riding too high, and the thigh straps fixed that. Weird, huh? As for the knee cut, I definitely will keep that in mind, but I'll wait until after my first troop. If it doesn't cause me issues, I think I'd rather avoid doing it. Thanks for the image though! Thigh fixes are curing right now, so everything should be good to go tomorrow for new photos! - The Captain
  8. Oh, I do have one extra question; How does the belt look? L3 ok? Like I said in the info sheet, it is home-made so I wanted to check and make sure it was acceptable. I know it's fine for basic, but so was the super-flimsy Anovos belt from the stuff I was reading. My main concerns are that it is still flimsy in the back (where the velcro pads are cause I had to sew those on) and that the internal folds of the canvas are slightly visible. Will this cause any concerns for L3 later on in my 501st career? Thanks! - The Captain
  9. Sounds like a plan! I was wondering if there was any sort of "must be a legion member for 6+ months" or anything like that, but it sounds like its just getting the armor approved first. Yup! I mentioned the teeth in my notes (I have a set of files on the way) but I was really worried about the extra frown paint. I know it's not required for basic, but I assume L3 will want this, yes? The ridges lose most of their depth at the edges, so I'm afraid I won't know where to stop on this particular helmet. I'll most likely bring it to an armor party so that I can have a little help and side-by-side comparison. Hadn't caught that! I did take all of the return edge off (the backside of that plate is perfectly flat) but it appears that the Anovos pull is more rounded than original. I'm assuming that I can shave off 1-2mm worth from each side and end up with something more squared off. Again, maybe an armor party thing, so I can side-by-side compare. Now I get what you were saying! Sadly I can't make those bottom cuffs of the thighs any smaller because of how my leg has to fit in and how flat they are in the back, but I did just try something. My thighs connect via straps from my Ab/cod piece, and this seems to be why they pull in like that. I added a pad to the outermost sides of the internal thighs, so that it pulls it away from my knees. This seems to get it to line up much better. When I post my "Take 2" pics, I'll showcase that in detail. Looks like it fixes the problem though. If not enough, I can run a second set of straps from the outermost sides which should even up the pull. Cutting out the knees? I didn't know that was allowed! Do you have any photos of other Anovos sets which have been modified for that? I'm going to stick to the scrap and fill for know, because my mobility was pretty good. But that sounds a lot easier.... Thanks for all of the help guys! Again, second set of photos to come probably tomorrow or Thursday! - The Captain
  10. Sorry for not responding right away! Got busy after posting. So... Ouch. So, besides the aforementioned back plate and shin, does everything else appear to fit correctly? You specifically mentioned thighs, were mine OK? (besides the back gap) Yup, I figured these issues would render the photos unusable. Shin is an easy fix, and I already adjusted the back plate to sit better. Do you think that this would be enough? What would you suggest for the back of the thigh? I was looking at just running a strip on the inside of that ridge to close it until I can get some ABS paste in there to fully seal it off. Actually, I was looking through the L2 definition on the costuming database, and it appears to me (after I get my fitment/spacing issues fixed) that I would qualify. I know I didn't post images showing off everything in detail, but when I do my second set I'll include those shots. Would it be possible to go straight to L2 after approval, or is there a waiting period? New set of pics coming probably Wednesday/Thursday Thanks! - The Captain
  11. 1. First/last name: Winston Thompson 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area: Southern California Garrison 3. Armor maker: Anovos 4. Helmet maker: Anovos 5. Cloth belt maker: Home-made 6. Neck seal maker: Stormtrooperundersuit.com 7. Boot maker: Totally Killer (TK) Boots 9. Blaster maker (if applicable): HFX Productions (Hyperfirm – ANH E-11) 10. Gasket maker (if applicable): N/A 11. Height (optional): 6’ 1” 12. Weight (optional): 195lbs 13. TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.): ANH Stunt 14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build: Joseph (@justjoseph63) for answering my plethora of questions, Tony (@ukswrath) for an awesome Anovos guide! Photos: (First set. See 2nd set below) Front Back Right Side Left Side Ab Close-up Helmet Front Helmet Right Helmet Left Helmet Back Extra Photos: TD Top-down View (Because I know the positioning has come up in the past on these posts) E-11 Left E-11 Right Headshot (Blurred because I don't want to include my face until I get approved. Won't blur for actual submission) Action Pose Things I already know will cause concerns or are issues for L2/L3: Helmet Frown needs less return edge between teeth, and maybe slightly less on left eye. Helmet ears are R1 style (ridge around the circular part) Back Plate came a little loose on the left side, creating a gap. (Already fixed, but not until after photos. Will this create basic approval problems if I still use this photo?) Left thigh has gap on back-side at bottom. (trimmed to be a bit larger, haven't yet shimmed the bottom edge/ridge) Left side kidney-to-ab strapping popped when I raised my arm, hence the gap you can see almost covered by the belt. This is not normal, but I know that L3 will want to see a cleaner, more even connection there. Will the current gap cause basic approval problems if I use this photo? The neck seal appears to flare out at the top. This is actually a cover for my upper neck+chin, which I slipped down for the headshot. Not actually a problem, just looks a little bad in this photo. My left shin came undone. Whoops. Will this photo cause basic approval problems? I know some of these points are in the "Well you could've just fixed those as you were taking pictures" category, as well as adjusting the lighting/background. But my "helpers" weren't very helpful... Looking forwards to your feedback! - The Captain 2nd Photo Set! Front Back Right Left
  12. It was covering about half of the button. I know it's accepted, but I just didn't want to cover up any. I adjusted it so it sits right at the base of the button + ridged section on the plate (and not at the bottom of the plate itself).
  13. I actually just did my ab-piece belt snaps today, and I found that Ukswrath's guide put my new belt just a touch too high (over the edge of the bottom button on the plate) Luckily I remembered to check the measurements with the new belt, and avoided having to re-drill or re-set any snaps. I adjusted it to sit right at the base, just like those reference pics. And here's those pics I promised: This is right after installing all of the rivets/fasteners. As you can see, the split rivets actually worked quite well, and they were easy to cover with a piece of foam to avoid armor scratches. Here you can see the finished belt (with protective plastic still mostly stuck on). The drop boxes are both set to touch the bottom of the belt, even though the left (viewer's right) box looks like it has a gap, but that's just because the elastic moved a bit. Tomorrow I'm going to secure the elastic to the belt (to keep it from slipping around anymore). I don't have a pic of the belt on the armor (because I want the glue to cure overnight first) but it sits right at the base of the button plate, just like the reference pics show. Also: here's a pic of that crotch strap I was asking about before. All installed and ready to go! Just want to say, thanks a ton. I was able to get this put together right on schedule because of all the quick replies. It looks like I might have my whole armor set done on the 4th. Here's hoping for the application to go in sometime around friday/saturday! - The Captain
  14. Ok then. Thanks so much for all of your help, it's made things much easier on me. I got my better cloth (with plastic inside) belt today, and have been working on drilling/gluing. I'll post pictures tomorrow when I am done, so that I can make one last verification for everything. - The Captain
  15. First off: Thank you so much! I definitely wanted to get the info "straight from the horse's mouth" if possible, hence my comment at the end there. Great! Being that the black snap heads will be between me and the armor, it sounds like I don't need to replace them with chrome ones (as you can't see them) Being that I have a ton extra, I'm probably going to go with heavy-duty split rivets or Chicago screws then. As for borrowing a tool, I mostly wanted to avoid pop rivets because I wanted something easier to undo/replace, as well as that I'm putting all of this together tomorrow (trying to be done on Sunday). Due to the time crunch, I didn't ask around. But I'll definitely keep that in mind for any other tool issues I might have going forwards! One additional question: To avoid scratches on the ab/cod plate, I was going to put a cover over the back side of the belt rivets. Like a spot of glue, or even a little piece of fabric. Being that it will be on the inside of the belt (not seen), will that affect L3 approval? Fantastic! And I am very familiar with the drop box placement. I already have everything measured out, I just wanted to wait till I heard back! Thanks again for your help! - The Captain
  16. Hey guys! I am about to wrap up my ANH Stunt armor and have a few questions to ask regarding if certain rivet/snap types are required for centurion. I have an Anovos kit, which comes with instructions that I know aren't L3 ready (I'm trying to follow Ukswrath's guide), but most of the materials are correct. I would like to make an outwardly accurate costume, but I'm only shooting for L3 Centurion approval and not going above-and-beyond to make it as similar to the originals as possible. Crotch Strap: Anovos provides a strip of elastic with two snaps on the end; female, popper type with a black cap. To install it, there's a single split rivet (for the codpiece) and two male snaps (for the butt plate). I know that the split rivet and two males snaps are L3 correct, but I was wondering if the elastic strip to connect the two had any special requirements, and if the number of female snaps or that they have a black heads/caps would be an issue. (Other L3 build threads I have seen always show the crotch strap with a single female snap and it's fully silver/metallic) Belt: For the belt kit Anovos provides three pop rivets to connect the plastic ammo belt to the cloth belt (to be covered by the three square button pieces). I don't have a pop rivet gun, and would really like to not have to buy one just to do three rivets. Are pop rivets required for L3, or do any similarly-sized rivets work here? Additionally, Anovos did not provide any rivets for the ammo drop boxes. Their instructions say to simply glue the white elastic to the backs of the boxes, but most threads I see use more pop rivets (which I would like to avoid). The CRL doesn't specify how the elastic straps are attached to the boxes, but will simply gluing the straps on cause an issue when going for L3? Thanks for any help you can give. I know that the CRL doesn't specify on most of this, but I also know that Centurion inspections can go a little beyond what the CRL specifies (Like how I have to replace the Anovos cloth belt because it is flimsy, or adjusting how the armor sits). So if any of you out there do Centurion inspections and have any input, it would be greatly appreciated! - The Captain
  17. I see Rat has already told you about a few things, but here's a few more answers to your questions: 1) Yup! It looks like they've been increasing the quality a bit. Most of it is good, but some things (like the above-mentioned ears) are maybe too good. 2) Honestly, there aren't any modifications to the guide, it's more about finding what you don't need to do. For example: the hovi-tips got fixed, so you don't need to go through his centurion update steps for those. Like Rat mentioned above, the belt is a kit so jump straight into the build section. IMO, it is still the best guide for Anovos armor. If I find any major deviations as I go through my build, I'll be sure to mention them here as a "new kit, new steps" kind of deal, but that has yet to happen. Response to your edit: All the paint on the helmet is done, but the teeth are under-painted. (they used to have an over-painted problem.) To apply for centurion, the decals should be fine (they are done in the hand-painted style, not perfect lines) but you'll have to add paint to the teeth, and possibly remove some return edge. The white and black won't be needed for the helmet, but you'll need the grey for the teeth (and your buttons!). The white and black will mostly be used for painting the rivet heads (white) and the Thermal Det screw heads (black). As for which colors you need, I use this guide (from the top stickied post in the build section of the forums) Hope this helps! - The Captain
  18. Update! The thigh armor is considerably thicker than the other leg/arm pieces, and it appears that the biceps are the same. I'd say its about 50% thicker, and not just in edges/corners. The whole piece.
  19. Just a few things I'm seeing: Your holster is on the wrong side of your belt and the ammo boxes are just a touch too high. Both easy fixes: just undo the Chicago screws on your holster and make the switch. For the ammo boxes, you might want to let out the elastic just enough that the boxes sit flush with the bottom of the plastic piece, and not slightly behind it. Here's ukswrath's pic for reference: As for the belt itself, just keep in mind that the Anovos supplied one won't work for L3 (I think it's ok for EIB though, but don't quote me on that), that's why I'm looking to reinforce/replace it. - The Captain
  20. Underspray is better than overspray! (And I'm already working on trimming back the return edge on the teeth) Honestly, that photo (angle/lighting) makes it seem more squared off than it actually is. Take a look at the straight-on shot, and the left ear (our viewing right) shows how rounded the ear bars are. As for the overall shape, it is a bit too clean. Might have to pop them off and find some high-quality low-quality versions. I'm using ukswrath's guide, and re-purposing it in mostly the same way he is. Not doing the same elastic-hinge system for the chest/ab/cod/kidney/back area (cause I don't trust the return edge and its not required for L3) So I don't plan to have much in the way of leftovers! Glad to hear you like the kit though. Did you reinforce the belt, or replace it? - The Captain
  21. Like I said, it appears as if its the same. Not having an example I can hold up side-by-side, I can't say for sure. It does appear however that most bends/joints are thicker than the flat sections. Maybe they buffed up all edges and corners, but left the flat parts the same? You and me both! - The Captain
  22. Hello everyone! After over 14 months of waiting, BBB Day has arrived! This kit is the new style Anovos kit, which is basically all of the same molds/casts, but how they assembled them is actually a bit different from what I've seen of other's posts (like ukswrath's awesome building guide that you can find here). For this topic, I'm just posting pictures and answering any questions about the new changes to the kit itself, and I'll make my personal build thread separate and in the right section of the forums. First off: everything is dirty. As in, actual filth. I know it got delayed (by sooo long...) but it feels like these pieces were sitting out exposed in a warehouse for the full 8 months extra I had to wait. Luckily the built-in layer of protective plastic seems to have taken the brunt of it, but I am going to have to spray and wipe down most of these pieces. The helmet Some major things right off the bat: No more hard-hat style head insert, now comes with velcro pre-installed inside the helmet and foam pads Frown is painted very conservatively, so no overspray but requires extra filling in. (Personally I like this, as it allows me to do it correctly without removing paint!) Frown mesh is surrounded by a felt pad, so it doesn't hurt your face. (Nice touch, but going to remove it to paint in the frown) THEY FIXED THEIR HOVI-TIPS! I couldn't be happier, as they aren't putting in the super fine mesh that they have before. Still the hand-painted style decals, but the blue stripes are again a little off. (Instead of a pen/pencil's width away, they're more like a Sharpie marker's width away) Right ear (viewer's left) has a considerable gap, but not any worse than what I've seen of original reference pics. Lens material is very well-trimmed and firmly glued in place (with craft foam over top so no ear scratches). Not too happy about the glue job, but the trimming makes it so I don't have a reason to pull it out anyways. So far, I'm leaving it. S-bend trim on the bottom is actually well done, and only appears to be slightly glued in the back to make the ends meet. Easy to replace, but proper quality so I won't have to. Pics! * THE BELT IS A KIT NOW! No more drilling rivets and breaking off the circle covers! Each part (including both halves of the drop box plastic shells) is completely separate, allowing me to easily swap out the fabric belt and build a centurion-level piece. Belt fabric is actually better than before, but still flimsy. It is 3 inches though, so I'm considering popping the seams on one end and just adding a strip of plastic down the middle. Holster is still leather and shockingly high-quality, and now I don't have to cut off any unnecessary rivets! Pic! * Misc. Like I said above, it doesn't appear they changed any of their molds/casts. Still very clean and sharp. Other differences that I saw is that the main button plate comes pre-cut now, and appears to be fully correct. I had one shin-half come in some really crappy packaging, but it appears that the usable plastic underneath is in perfect condition. (Still gave me a heart attack) Due to the belt kit, they give you a greater assortment of screws/rivets, most of which I'll still be replacing. Still includes their Velcro strapping kit, but now all of the elastic/pre-made straps have some decent quality "hook-side" velcro on them. I'm thinking I can actually salvage most of them and make it useful, while replacing the "loop-side" velcro with my own heavy-duty stuff. Plastic thickness appears to be about the same as previous kits, but feels a little heavier than expected. Update: The thigh and bicep pieces are thicker (by about 50%) than the other leg and arm pieces. If I notice any other differences like this, I'll update the post. Pic * Final notes So, I'm actually really happy with what I got. However, in response to all of these changes, Anovos has basically doubled the price. No joke. I didn't have to pay extra (they honored original sale) but any new kits on the site are in the ridiculous price range, especially compared to the other good kits out there. So, while I would highly suggest this kit to others, I would highly suggest not buying it full price. Find someone who ordered it back in 2017 and has lost interest. (But not me. You couldn't get this kit from me unless you pry it from my cold, dead, imperial hands!) So! I hope this helps out anyone who is waiting on a kit, or is considering buying one. If you have any questions/picture requests, I'd be happy to help! As for me, I'm going to (slowly) get started on my build, starting with the helmet fixes. - The Captain
  23. Ah ha! I knew someone had to be working on it. Ok, so we all know of the E-11 from the May Newsletter, and all thanks to SlyFox740 for the upcoming accessory template. You guys have pointed out the DLT-19 has a new version too, which is good. This is actually the one I was most interested in, but it's not exactly prominent in the show. Well see how the discussion develops, as I doubt they changed the other two without changing some aspect, even a small one, of the T-21. So then, the question becomes how are they integrated into the CRL? I second this concept, but do we want to apply it to all of them? Have all OT style blasters (E-11, DLT-19, and T-21) be allowed for basic entry, but RO versions required for EIB and Centurion? Thoughts? - The Captain
  24. I know there was the huge discussion over the new E-11's, but has there been any discussion of the other blasters? Are they the same as their OT counterparts? I would think the RO versions are at least slightly different.
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