Ragtooth

Pretty obvious question but is the "bridge" the elastic strap that connects to the two shoulder sections together? If so, the strap connector from the shoulder bell is already pulling the elastic bridge out from underneath the plastic shoulder straps (the corrugated straps, sorry I'm just leaning the nomenclature). I don't think that it's merely an issue with bringing the shoulder bells closer via the strap connector but the issue is more that it I can't physically bring the should bell closer because it's too narrow. Just look at mine (above) vs. the pic of Imperial Attache's above. The later's look so much wider that mine.

Thanks to all for your replies!! Looking forward to trooping as a HWT!

Understood! I do know that there is an edge on that lower portion but since it is outside of the bicep armor I didn't think it affected the fit much.

I guess what I'll do is take off a bit of the bicep return edge and see what that does to the shoulder bell fitment. The bicep armor feels to tight anyways so that may relieve a bit of that issue. If that doesn't work, I'll go boiling water with the shoulder bell.

Doesn'tlook like there's any return edge on the shoulder.l bell itself.

Thats brilliant because I always thought that the bicep was too tight as well. Is this too much return edge? thanks.

Hello All My shoulder bell is too narrow and doesn't allow for it to come closer to the chest amor thus it is pulling on the shoulder strap and there is a larger than ideal gap. What are some techniques to make it wider? I could obviously bust out my heat gun but that's a lot of area to heat. Hot water maybe? Much appreciated Thanks

Just got my TK Stunt 501st approval over this weekend (TK 99427) and moved swiftly to send my Garrison GML my HWT pics.

TK 99427 requesting access! Thank you http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=25749

Thanks. Ukswrath's thread on the pack build is excellent. The tube literally takes about 30 seconds to install. Not much compared to all else. Since the tube hangs off the side of the pack, I thought that eventually I was going to walk into a doorway and knock it off. That was my initial thinking for using bolts to attach it off the side. Now I like the idea of it being removeable. I'll start a thread when I'm all HWT'd out!

Thanks for your response. I just bought a large Husky to try it out. The HWT pack (as designed by Ukswrath) does fit in the bottom of the case but WITHOUT the PVC tube on the side. It just so happens that I'm finishing up with the build of the pack and decided to attach the tube to the side with a bolt/nut mounting system (See pic). Fortuitously, I'm backing into a system whereby I can drop the pack on the bottom of the case and install the tube on the side when I troop. I epoxied some 1/4" T-Nuts into the side of the tube (ie., inverted so that the shaft fits inside the tube). The idea is just to use a bolt/washer or maybe a thumbscrew on the inside to attach the tube. I'm thinking of creating a shelf system on the inside the box whereby I can place a 1/4" piece of plywood on top of the pack (supported on the internal wall sides) so that the armor can be placed on top on a flat deck. My DLT-19 fits as well as it breaks down into 2 pieces. I'm hoping to find a spot inside for that as well as E-11 blaster (so I can strap it to the other side of the pack ... looks cool) and the helmet. I'll post some pics when I get it all done.

When trooping as HWT, how do you guys transport all of the gear (including backpack) to the events? Does it all fit in the larger Husky rolling case? I have a DLT-19 that breaks down into 2 parts. I'm hoping that I could fit everything (including maybe the helmet) into the larger Husky case. Thanks

Don't think there's much to it. I'm going to try to find a waterproof pouch that fits in the back plate and attach it using Velcro or snaps. Since I'm working towards HWT, I may even try to use one of my HWT mag pouches for storage. I'll remove the threads that divide the pouch into three compartments making it one big one. Obviously this may not work for higher level approvals but may work for trooping.

Thanks for your responses! After I posted the thread, I was able to work out the problems and make it fit a lot better. I ended up not only heating and bending the shoulder blades to where it is flatter but I also had to lower the chest armor in relation to the abs armor. I kept the same brackets but made longer tabs.

Sith's come forward as well!! Nice addition to your home! Lol.

I really appreciate you posting that. That's exceptionally helpful. I'll let you know when I conquer that task!

Thanks for your collective input thus far. These rivets were installed by RS Propmasters and they are hard as sh** steel. --Prying it is tough because as you mess with the legs, it torques the head from side to side which causes the head to dig in and start damaging the armor. --The heads are flush on the outside so it's impossible to get a set of plyers to hold the head without scratching the armor. Plus there's barely any surface on the side of the rivet as it is a dome shape. --I was able to pry off the one set of legs that I did manage to cut into with my dremel but there is just remaining metal to prevent the rivet from popping out. I'd have to drill it out - which may cause more heat/melting issues. --I've also tried bolt cutters but can't get the teeth to grip onto the legs. AAAARRRGGGGGHH!!! I'll try those side cutters but don't think that it will cut through the rivets. If that doesn't work, I think I'll leave "well enough alone" and work around it. My understanding is that for Centurion level approval, it doesn't matter what mods or hacks I do to the inside as long as the outside is "canon". Thanks again!

Trying to remove the six split rivets on the Left ab and kidney armor to replace the straps with slightly longer ones. I've tried messing around with pliers, etc but found that that's fatiguing the plastic around head. Also tried cutting with dremel but the heat was starting to melt the plastic. I may just cut the straps, install new hardware (on the inside so nothing visible outside) and be done with it. That way at least the six rivets will still show. Thanks

Could this be the problem? I think the shoulder "blades" coming up for the back amor is too curved in an should be a flatter curve. If so, could I just a heat gun to very gently bend it back?

Is the solution maybe re-contouriung the back piece to where it's a bit flatter?

I need some TK help! I did a "photo shoot" with my armor a few days ago to upload to my GML for 501st admission and the chest plate was hitting my neck which limited my helmet range as well. Super uncomfortable! (This is from a full RS Commission, BTW) I thought that maybe the shoulder straps were too short. So I took them off (fully prepared to make/glue new ones, etc.) and am now trying to line up the ab and kidney armor and determine the approximate length of the elastic shoulder straps. The problem that is see is that either the chest/ab piece is too long AND/OR the back/kidney/butt plate is too short. I'm placing my chest piece to where it's just under my neck and the plastic shoulder (corrugated) straps are naturally curving over my shoulder. Now if I raise the back piece to where it fits the natural contour of my back with the curved plastic (showing no gap in the back armor) ---- the kidney and ab plates are way out of whack. HOWEVER, if I lower the back to where the kidney armor aligns to the ab armor, it pulls the back plate way down and I get a huge gap in the back as you can see in the pic (which is more noticeable from my right side). I'm 5'11" So what is going on here and how can I fix it? Thanks (Any other comments or observations would be greatly appreciated - that was literally the first time I put the armor on). As H

That is brilliant!

I think this is a silly question but I'm new.... For Centurion level judging, does it matter what I do to the inside of the amor if the outside meets 100% of the specs? I want to place some velcro (about 2" x 2") on the inside of the ab and kidney plates for temporary purposes but don't think I want to run the risk of trying to yank it off as I may damage the armor. Thank you!

The rubber gloves that came with my RS kit are on the small side. I did manage to get them on for purposes of my "photo shoot" for the pics that I sent to my GML. But they are a nightmare to take off! The moisture inside the gloves creates a suction effect on the fingers and they don't slide off. I was really close to picking up a pair of EMT shears.... So what to do? If the solution is just to make a bigger set, where do you guys source Centurion level gloves? I checked TrooperBay and they only have mediums which are I think what I have. Does anyone use any type of glove liners? If so, which ones? Thanks!

Definitely makes more of a statement!