jeffnorth86

Thanks so much! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone, and for the tip on the S-trim. Here's a better picture. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Jeffrey Northman FISD Name: jeffnorth86 ID 33729 Garrison Tyranus - Inferno Squad EIB #770 EIB Link: Armor/Helmet: WTF Blaster HfX Changes from EIB: 1. Strapping/Fit modifications to back and shoulder bells 2. Replaces TD screws 3. Alignment of Drop boxes Submission Photos: Front Back Left Left Detail Right Right Detail Ab Detail Butt Kidney Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Front Shoulder Bridge Back Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment Right Thigh Pack Attachment Left Knee Plate Right Knee Plate Left Drop Box Back/Holster Attachment Cod/Butt Attachment Interior Strapping Kidney Plate Notch and Ab Snap Forearm Wrists Helmet Front Helmet Left Helmet Right Helmet Back Hovi Mic Tips Lens Color S-Trim Blaster Right Blaster Left Blaster D-Ring Neck Seal TD Back

Thanks so much! I'll be fixing the minor things you brought up this week, so look for my Centurion application soon. Thanks again! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot. Good to know what it looks like. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Yes, sorry I'm going for stunt. I'll be sure to post those pictures tonight when I get home from work. What do you mean by inside waist belt connections? Is that the snaps attaching the canvas belt to the ab plate, or something else? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Jeffrey Northman TK-33729 forum name: jeffnorth86 Garrison Tyranus Armor Maker: WTF Helmet Maker: WTF Blaster: HfX E-11 Front: Back: Left: Left Detail: Right: Right Detail: Abdomen Details: Action Shot: Cod/Butt Plate Attachment: Interior Strapping: Helmet Front: Helmet Left: Helmet Right: Helmet Back: Hovi Tip Detail: Lens Color: Blaster Left: Blaster Right: Neck Seal: Thermal Detonator: Holster Attachment:

TK 33729 requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=22574

I had to shim my thighs a bit, and the ABS paste isn't all that technically challenging. It's just time consuming. Cut up some of your scrap trimmings into small pieces in a glass container and add 100% acetone until the pieces are just covered. Cover it with foil and let it dissolve. I lightly stirred it after an hour or so to separate some big chunks. Do more of a slow folding motion though to avoid air bubbles. Once it's the consistency between marshmallow fluff and mustard it's ready. Brush it onto the seams making sure to fill the cracks completely. Try not to put too much on as you're just going to sand it back off. Leave it to dry for a few hours and start sanding. I started with 150 grit to even out the edges and moved my way up to wet sanding with 800 grit so it's nice and smooth. That's really the only way to hide the seam. And the beauty of ABS paste is you use your scrap trimmings so the color is matched and there's no need to paint it. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks so much. Looks like I have a nice plan of attack now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks so much for the help. So it's okay for the straight edge and shim to be running at an angle on that left side compared to the rest of the piece? Would I then just use an iron to make the return edge on top even with the rest of the piece, or should there actually be an upward flare on that side? Also, when you say add shim from behind, do you mean that's the only shim added? Shouldn't there be one running even to the cut line with a second behind the seam as support? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all. I posted this over in the ANH stunt forum, but I'm not getting much traffic over there, so I thought I'd try here too. So I'm about a 1/2" short on each side of my kidney, and I'd like some advice for adding shims. First of all, my armor came with a little extra ABS on the sides which definitely reached, but I didn't like the look of it...it was thinner and had a pronounced ridge to it. I originally tried sanding down the ridge knowing that if it didn't work I could always cut it off and add shims. Surprise surprise...it didn't work. So what I'm left with is a nice even ridge and a little bit of the molded notch on the right side, and on the left the molded notch and only some ridge at the top. This is where my dilemma is, because I need a straight edge for shimming, and the left side is curved. So I'm left with three options as I see it. A) leave the edges as is and make sure the ABS paste passes the ridge and try to sand it smooth. Cut kidney notches where they currently are and retain their return edge. cut the left side straight down from just behind the ridge and remove an equal amount from the right to keep the sides even. That will be about 1/2" from each side and enough to remove the molded kidney notches, so I'd just cut my own and they wouldn't have a return edge. C) cut up to the ridge on the right and cut the ridge on the left following the curve. Then trim the left shim to match that curve and have a not straight seam. Keep the molded kidney notches. So which option do you think would be best? I think I'm probably partial to option B, and just having kidney notches without a return edge, but I'm totally new to this and don't know if that's a no-no. I should say I intend to take this armor to Centurion level, so kidney notches are a must for me. Thanks for any and all help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's Walt's Trooper Factory. The problem isn't with the pull though, it's just that I'm just a shade to big for the piece. I'm going to have to shim it regardless, so why not just shim what I have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm about a 1/2" short on each side of my kidney, and I'd like some advice for adding shims. First of all, my armor came with a little extra ABS on the sides which definitely reached, but I didn't like the look of it...it was thinner and had a pronounced ridge to it. I originally tried sanding down the ridge knowing that if it didn't work I could always cut it off and add shims. Surprise surprise...it didn't work. So what I'm left with is I nice even ridge and a little bit of the molded notch on the right side, and on the left the molded notch and only some ridge at the top. This is where my dilemma is, because I need a straight edge for shimming, and the left side is curved. So I'm left with three options as I see it. A) leave the edges as is and make sure the ABS paste passes the ridge and try to sand it smooth. Cut kidney notches where they currently are and retain their return edge. cut the left side straight down from just behind the ridge and remove an equal amount from the right to keep the sides even. That will be about 1/2" from each side and enough to remove the molded kidney notches, so I'd just cut my own and they wouldn't have a return edge. C) cut up to the ridge on the right and cut the ridge on the left following the curve. Then trim the left shim to match that curve and have a not straight seam. Keep the molded kidney notches. So which option do you think would be best? I think I'm probably partial to option B, and just having kidney notches without a return edge, but I'm totally new to this and don't know if that's a no-no. I should say I intend to take this armor to Centurion level, so kidney notches are a must for me. Thanks for any and all help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Besides the arms, I did a few other things on my first weekend of work. I sewed up my canvas belt, attached the holster, trimmed the belt ammo box, and constructed my drop boxes. I haven't attached the ammo box to the belt yet as I need to put on the snaps to attach the belt to the ab plate, and I'm not ready to take that plunge yet, so I just mocked it up as it would appear. I also cut out the button panels for the ab plates. I still have some trimming to do on them, but I don't want to take too much off and lose my gluing surface. Another issue is that the middle button plate has a slight bend to it, and also has visible bubble on the return edge I left for gluing. How can I fix this?

Hello everyone, I received my BBB from Walt last Thursday and I've made a decent start, but I have some questions, and I'd like some input from the community before I proceed. I started with the forearms and biceps. I took off all of the return edge on the wrists and left about 1/4" return edge everywhere else...I figured I could always take it down more. Here are a few pictures wearing the armor: Now here's the first thing I wanted to check. Only one of my biceps has the "thumbprint". That matches up with the "curvy" forearm, correct? And those two pieces go on my left arm, yes? As far as fitting goes, both the thumbprint bicep and curvy forearm are fairly snug, but the other two pieces, especially the right forearm, feel big. Here's a picture of the gap in my right forearm: Is this fixed with padding, or heating and shaping, or something else? I left a little bit of extra room on each piece for where the cover strips go...I trimmed each side to 3/8" so that'll add up to 19mm under the cover strip. Will sanding that down to 15mm take care of the fitting issues? Should I take off more of the return edge? Another issue is on my curvy forearm...the two pieces don't line up correctly at the top: How is this fixed? Is it okay since the cover strip will cover it up? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks guys!!