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pewpewpew

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by pewpewpew

  1. SlyFox's ANH Stunt Build [*AP]

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    That's really good advice thanks. I'm probably going to have to get rid of all the return edges, round them out and they should fit. Problem is I've already cut most of one forearm to make the 15mm strips the desired goal. Whoops! Measure once cut twice, right?<br><br>

    Just got some magnets to get gluing, so we will see how this goes.

    • Like 1

  3. Vexus's AP Build Thread. Road to the 501st

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    Thanks Sentry. I hope so :D

     

    Pew,

    They are all around the recommended widths. ~15mm for arms. ~20mm in the front of the legs and ~25mm on the back. Give or Take a mm or 2. And YES. I did remove most of the return edge from my wrists if that is what you mean by "top" I left some return edge near the elbow.

    I'm working on an AP kit now as well. I'm sizing my forearms to be 15mm also and they seem really tight. I don't think I have very large forearms. I'm not really a big guy. Are your forearms really tight to get in and out of? I'm thinking I might need to remove a lot of the return at the elbow and reshape them. Just comparing since we seem to be working from the same kit.

     

    Great thread btw.

    • Like 2

  5. What defines a good snap?

    in Hard Armor (General Discussion)

    Posted

    I found a supply at zackwhite.com. I don't like the Tandy snaps because they are $$$ and have the Tandy name stamped all over them. The ZW ones are plane and cheap.

    I have used them all over my TK armor and they are very good. The usual tool with anvil used with a hammer works well. Just watch as you tap down the part so the center shaft roles down evenly. I have messed up a few snaps hammering them down but, I have never have one fail on me. 369b9c276c1916ba24c8f0427e34e564.jpge1ec0e306fe89beb8634708cc8ff2627.jpg87a95f26a269178681484062f6ef4e12.jpg

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Now that is some sexy looking snap installation. Doubled over the webbing for extra strength and even hit the plate with the heat gun to counter sink the snap. Looks like it's actually been moulded into the plastic. I plan on using webbing for my snap plates, but that does look pretty sweet.

  6. What defines a good snap?

    in Hard Armor (General Discussion)

    Posted

    I have used both Tandy(Line 24 Canada) and FASNAP/DOT (Line 24 USA).

     

    The Tandys are very popular and a reliable snap at a decent price, but i find that the Eyelet is not flat and makes using abs snap plates a pain.

     

    The FASNAP or DOT brand is perfectly flat at the bottom of the Eyelet and works great for ABS plates but they are expensive compared to the Tandys. I have used the FASNAP or DOT in my armor and have found that pulling a strap off is quite difficult.

     

    Good points. I was going to make my snap plates with webbing so I'm content that ones I've found will sit flat. Thanks.
    • Like 1

  7. What defines a good snap?

    in Hard Armor (General Discussion)

    Posted

    I've had a few fail from different makers, I came up with this to help them hold http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28934-howto-make-snaps-hold/?hl=snaps

    That's good. I guess the idea is to really look at them closely when you're done. Don't just simply follow the manufacturers procedure and hammer them together. In regards to the ones I've found, they come with a tool that flares them out in six tabs. I will be sure to squish those even further into place with a bolt like you've shown.

  8. What defines a good snap?

    in Hard Armor (General Discussion)

    Posted · Edited by pewpewpew

    I hear everybody recommend Tandy, and to make sure the snaps are a 5/16" post, and marked as heavy duty, but what defines good snap quality for the purpose of armour building and trooping?<br>

    I came across some that are made by a company called H.A. Kidd, and seem easy to use, assemble and seems to stay fastened in my tests. They only really come apart when pulled at the angle you'd use to purposely do so. After doing them up and taking them apart repeatedly they don't seem to show any signs of breakage. <br>

    Does that seem like a good snap?<br>

    Also, does the colour of any audience facing snaps matter?<br>

    Thanks!

  10. PPP's AP ANH Stunt BBB WTF LOL

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Your thigh pieces should sit as high and possible. Hold off on trimming them before you can wear your torso. That'll really show you how everything fits together. Return edge can be removed and still be approved Centurion. A lot of people trim out the bick of teh knee area to improve mobility. Check some Centurion threads for examples. You can hold off on gluing the front cover strips before trimming. I actually assembled my legs last!

    Thanks for the wisdom. I had my cart before my horse. Cutting the back of the knee would probably add a lof of comfort as well.

    And this might seem like a silly question, but are there strips on the insides of all seams as well? I'm guessing it'll add extra strength and make assembly easier. I just wasn't sure.

  11. Adder's ANH TK Build Thread [TM]

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    Bicep and Forearms cont. Ok, so I've actually advanced quite a ways but I'm lagging on my updates here. Here is the second forearm/vambrace...I tried adding the coverstrip to one side. let it dry and then added the second half of the vambrace and I wasn't pleased with the results so I'm gonna stick to the way I was doing it before. I butt the halves together and tape the joint on inside. Then I apply E6000 to the length of the joint, on the other side, and apply the cover strip, taping it down as I go starting from one end to the other. _DSF4380_resize.jpg To make the joints tight, as I think I explained before, I flex the joint and then pull the wings of the tape into place. The tape sticks very well to the ABS and the elasticity of the plastic acts as the clamp._DSF4392_resize.jpg And here is forearm two, all taped up. _DSF4389_resize.jpg As you can see the flex makes the joint very tight._DSF4390_resize.jpg So, yeah, blue tape. Love the stuff... almost as much as gaffer's tape. :) I've largely eliminated the magnets from my clamping inventory. I feel they may have their uses but for the cover strips, the tape method works very best for me. You'll see later that the shins worked out perfectly with the tape method also.

     

    Just so I understand your technique here: you're flexing the joint so that when released it pushes back on the tape, and this pressure keeps the coverstrip firmly in place until the glue dries?

  13. PPP's AP ANH Stunt BBB WTF LOL

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted · Edited by pewpewpew

    I've taped each pair of thigh pieces together and gave them a test drive. <br><br>

    Even if I hold them as high up as possible, to the point where they're really close to my ...ummm... twig and berries...? The backs of the thighs bite into the areas behind my knees quite a lot, and the idea of climbing stairs is impossible. Walking is more of a forward wobble.<br><br>

    Needless to say, I've got to take some off the tops of each thigh. <br><br>

    What's the recommended way to do this? Should I glue the pieces together first and then get chopping? For that matter, should I glue most of this stuff together first and then trim it to fit? I noticed this is what Pandatrooper did with his, but that guy is on a whole other level when it comes to this stuff. Should I follow the existing contour, or try to go for something more specific to my body type? And, is a return edge at the tops of thighs required for higher levels like Centurion?<br><br>

    Finally, should I get fries or onion rings with my burger?

  14. zv288bot's AP ANH stunt build! Whoop Whoop!

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Basically. I really didn't understand it either until I suited up. On one side you have the two pieces held in place by multiple rivets and straps, on the other side it's just one strap place on the very top so I wound up having two pieces trying to butt up against each but would ultimately overlap each other. I am sure there are many ways to combat this issue. For me, creating the Tab from left over pieces was super easy and quick. The tab helps keep it more in place.

    To be completely honest I spent since Oct of last year reading as many build threads as I could and seeing all sorts of great ideas but there was quite a few "hurdles" that didn't translate until I was actually faced with it, if this makes any sense.

    Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

    That's a really good summary of what I have going on right now. Until you have all the pieces of a puzzle in front of you and can begin pushing them around for yourself to fit a proper solution it's pretty difficult to fully grasp what others have going on. Great explanation though, thanks!
    • Like 2

  20. PPP's AP ANH Stunt BBB WTF LOL

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Thanks Luc and Mark. Good to know about the neck too. Seems kind of like an annoying place to have a return edge rubbing on somebody. <br><br>

    I know the wrist and bottom of the shins don't have returns either. Is there anywhere else? Perhaps the neck of the back plate doesn't?<br><br>

    If I get this done in time we might get to meet at Fan Expo in Ottawa if you're going to be there Luc. I should be the one dressed like a Stormtrooper...

  25. PPP's AP ANH Stunt BBB WTF LOL

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    From all that i read, remember that the original suits were hand made. They're supposed to not be perfect.

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

    Growing up in an age where everything is mass produced and these little individual quirks and differences don't exist, this is a nice change. It takes some of the pressure off having everything "perfect" and gives us a bit more breathing room. I will be content with the little "imperfections" in my armor once it's complete.
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