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Addertime

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by Addertime

  1. TRIGGER - Completed

     

    To finish up the Trigger, I've been thinking about how to get a decent "E" and "D" onto it.  No way I was going to try and hand engrave it.  That would just look to sloppy.  My wife does scrap booking and makes things out of paper and has a device called a Cricut Explore Cutting Machine:

    61dWePiJuGL._SL1372_.jpg

    It's like a plotting printer that uses a razor instead of an ink pen.  So instead of drawing patterns on paper it cuts patterns into paper, plastic, vinyl, etc.  Using adhesive vinyl paper we made some tiny letters.  The green background is the cutting mat with 1 inch square grid pattern.

    IMG_20161030_211529.jpg

     

     

    These letters are tiny about 3/16 of an inch (4mm?) and hard to handle.  Also it is not that shinny in person, I angled the light to make them really show up in the camera. I might darken the letters a bit later on if needed.

    IMG_20161030_211549.jpg

    I bought one of these to make stencils for my builds also. :)

    • Like 1
  2. Hi Paul... you're well on the way. Now, I'm not an official reviewer for the EIB. I'm only here to offer some friendly advice... so... here comes some tough love...

    • Kidney plate looks to be too wide for your body. The ab and kidney pieces should create a form-fitting circle around your middle. The rear standing shot shows a lot of air on the sides.  
    • Biceps hang too low and at an odd angle. Add a hook to hold the bicep to the elastic on the shoulders and reduce the circumference of the cylinders.
    • Vambraces are quite voluminous. I think they also need to be reduced in circumference.
    • The greaves sit a bit high. An elastic stirrup can pull them down into the proper location.
    • The sniper knee shouldn't ever be under the thigh armor. If your thigh pieces are too big around, cut them down and/or add some foam across the rear to keep the front closer to you leg. This makes for less overlap with the shin pieces.
    • The seams on the greaves (shins) should line up better. Check the strapping to make sure it is doing what it is supposed to do.

    And if you want to take it to the next level

    • The crotch rivet and snaps should not be painted
    • Drop boxes should have a rivet each on the back

    The overall fit needs work. It looks as if the armor was made for someone larger than yourself. Slip three fingers into each piece of armor. That is all the extra space you should have for a good fit. Make those adjustments and it will look really good.

    You've got a good stepping off point by having an RS kit. A little more finishing work will help make it awesome.

    Happy Trooping!

    • Like 1
  3. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the elastic used for? I guess my real question is, why can't you use nylon strapping for those areas just as everywhere else? Could someone maybe post a pic of the inside of their shoulder bells or something so I can get an idea of what this is for? Also, I'll be the first to admit I didn't read all 9 pages. Forgive me if this has been answered.  :smiley-sw013:

     

    Thanks guys

     

    The elastic is authentic and a lot of the reason we do this is to attempt to create something very similar to the screen-used suits. I have seen nylon strapping used on the ab/back plate shoulder connections but the others are pretty much essential, either for movement or accuracy at EIB or Centurion levels. 

     

    I think it's common to come into this hobby thinking, "Why do all these people do it this way?!? I can so improve upon this! " I was right there myself on a few points... only to learn when I started trooping, that there really are reasons to listen to the way it's generally done. I had a few "a ha" moments on my first troop and 'fessed up to some of the guys after having an armor blowout and their knowing grins and nods told me that this is a common affliction. ;)

    • Like 2
  4. 3D printing is awesome... if used judiciously. My suggestion... Use the detail parts but build the rest from scratch.

     

    The barrel would look much better, be quicker to make and sturdier if made from a piece of PVC pipe. The pistol grip, rear cap, Hengstler and scope are the parts to print but in my opinion and experience, you'll get a much better product from scratch building the rest. The pistol grip in this model is overly simplistic. You can buy a real Sterling grip for 30 or 40 bucks, why spend 3 or 4 hours printing, filling, sanding, priming and painting? 

     

    Bottom line, tech is cool but don't forget that low tech works too... and often better, quicker and cheaper. :) Jus' sayin'.

    • Like 2
  5.  

    Hey Michael, thank you for your Centurion application, and thanks for the re alignment of parts and the Thermal det screws, excellent work. Well done    :jc_doublethumbup:

    CRL and EIB Application Requirements:

    All submission photos are present. Your armor displays all the elements required for Level 3. On behalf of Ukswrath and myself congratulations and welcome to Centurion!!   :salute:

     

    Other-Armor Fit/Assembly:

    Maybe just shorten those top straps of the shoulder bells so they toch the bridges and you will look perfect.

    Continue to make the Legion proud Centurion.

     

     

    Thanks so much! You made my day!

  6. PERSONAL INFORMATION
     

    Name - Michael Avina

    FISD Name - Addertime

    Height - 5'10"

    Weight - 165 lbs

    Legion ID - 11427

    Garrison - German Garrison

    501st Member Link - http://www.501st.com...hp?userID=22410

    EIB Submission Link - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38979-tk-11427-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-tm-642/

     

     

    ARMOR INFORMATION
     

    Armor Maker - TM

    Helmet Maker - TM  

    Blaster Type - E-11, Scratchbuilt (Link to my blaster build thread. The thread is still a work in progress)
    Boots Maker - Busse - Self Painted

    Canvas Belt - TKittell

    Hand Plates - TM

    Neck Seal - Darman

    Holster Maker - Darman

    IMAGES

     

    Full Body Front

    _DSC4885_resize.jpg

     

    Full Body Rear

    _DSC4888_resize.jpg

     

    Full Body Left

    _DSC4848_resize.jpg

     

    Full Body Right

    _DSC4853_resize.jpg

     

    Belt
    _DSC4897_resize.jpg

     

    Holster Attachment Detail
    _DSC4777_resize_1.jpg

     

    Drop Box Back
    _DSC4877_resize.jpg

     

    Neck Seal
    _DSC4747_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet Front

    _DSC4486_exposure_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet Left

    _DSC4489_exposure_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet Rear

    _DSC4490_exposure_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet Right
    _DSC4488_exposure_resize.jpg


    Lens Color

    _DSC4530_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet S Trim
    _DSC4904_resize.jpg

     

    Hovi Tips and Vocoder Detail

    _DSC4716_resize.jpg

     

    Helmet Detail - All Hand Painted 

    _DSC4708_resize.jpg

     

    Rubber Gloves with Latex Hand Guards

    _DSC4778_resize.jpg

     

    Hand Guard Detail
    _DSC4779_resize.jpg

     

    Forearm Return Removed
    _DSC4793_resize.jpg

     

    Bra Hook Strapping on Shin Armor

    _DSC4792_resize.jpg

     

    Sniper Knee Side
    _DSC4786_resize.jpg

     

    Sniper Knee Front

    _DSC4783_resize.jpg

     

    Thermal Detonator Screws
    _DSC4878_resize.jpg

    _DSC4880_resize.jpg

     

    Ab Plate Detail
    _DSC4755_resize.jpg

     

    Left Side Body Detail
    _DSC4761_resize_1.jpg

     

    Right Side Body Detail

    _DSC4763_resize_1.jpg

     

    Thigh Pack Rivet

    _DSC4748_resize.jpg

     

    Crotch Snaps and Rivet 

    _DSC4760_resize_1.jpg

     

    Shoulder Attachment and Elastic

    _DSC4765_resize.jpg

     

    Interior Strapping
    _DSC4769_resize.jpg

     

    Blaster Rear

    _DSC4688_resize.jpg

     

    Blaster Muzzle and Folding Stock Detail

    _DSC4699_resize.jpg

     

    Blaster Right 
    _DSC4682_resize.jpg

    Blaster Left
    _DSC4832_resize.jpg

    Blaster Detail Top

    _DSC4684_resize.jpg

    • Like 2
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