Jedidad

I have both the original (inaccurate) and the Uber versions. They do require detail sanding on all visible surfaces, but that's the only hard part of the build. I used gorilla glue to assemble mine and have trooped a few times with it. I have the lights and sound kit on the Uber. It's great for pictures. I do NOT allow anyone else to handle my blaster. It can easily be repaired with super glue but I'd just as soon avoid that. This is not a blaster you kick around, throw into a bin, let kids play with...it's a display piece that can handle light trooping and picture ops easily. It is not indestructible. Pictures below are NOT photoshopped. This is the light kit that can be purchased (recommended for coolness factor). ----------

TK-90499 of the Carolina Garrison requesting access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=21127&costumeID=124 Thanks!

Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info and opinion I was looking for. If I drop my resin blaster, it's busted for sure...how embarrassing! If I'm not mistaken, Hyperfirms are solid rubber, right? I was considering modding a Hasbro but really I don't want to invest the time. Unbreakable is what I need with two young kids pretending to be Luke and Leia trying to get away from the stormtrooper all the time. I'll contact Slavefive. That'll be money well spent. Thanks for the help! Very much appreciated.

I was asking your opinion in hopes you would contribute to a learning situation. I know I'll need a different blaster to troop with. I see you'd rather not be helpful so we'll just leave it at that and that's ok. I'll keep researching on my own and you keep on doing whatever it is you do here. Cheers!

Wow. Yes, I'm new here. Thanks for the warm welcome. Did I offend you somehow? My apologies to you, then. Because I am new here with, as you pointed out, only 8 posts to my credit (been reading the threads for years, btw), I trust Veteran FISD Members to guide me in the ways of trooping and I've learned a ton here. But not everything here is positive or friendly so I stand by my comments. To respond to your comments; I looked carefully at the product before purchasing. I did my homework. I looked at the pictures on Ebay. I was not surprised, therefore I did not feel the need to return the kit. I knew what I was getting. The seller emailed me to inquire how I liked the kit and if he could be of any help. I thought that was good customer service. At that time I passed on the comments from certain FISD threads about the inaccuracies. He's moving onto other designs at the moment so another version probably isn't in the works. However, I think most people here are creative enough to be able to modify the base model easily enough. It's just plastic. I mounted my scope too far back and had my counter upside down the first time. Newbie mistake. Some friendly advice here corrected me and I felt happy that people in the FISD encouraged me to make my blaster better. We're all on the Dark Side together...unless your name is Finn. Troopers helping troopers, right? In regards to the E11 Blaster Reference not being around BEFORE the kits went on sale, the E11 Reference was posted July 6, 2015 and the blaster has been selling for over 12 months, so that's February 2015. I bet if the reference had been available before the 3D plans were created, the kit would be much more accurate. BTW, what kind of blaster do you use for trooping? Doopy Do's?Is that the best kit to assemble? I see lots of people here making them but it seems like you have to source a lot of parts or make parts. I'm sure the blaster I have now wouldn't handle trooping for long, so it's going to stay on it's stand most of the time. Any advice for a more durable one would benefit many of us newbies. Much appreciated.

No doubt a lot of sanding! But worth the effort. I see that you followed the instructions as I did. I was politely informed by others here that the scope was mounted too far back, which is an easy fix. The rear scope leg should be in line with the stock hinge screws. It balances the gun better. You can also move the counter forward while still using the mounts on the rail where they are now. Just cut and re-glue. I had to shorten the wire coils because they are stiff but again, an easy fix. The other item the maker has wrong is the counter "button", the part you would push to reset the numbers, is actually on the bottom, not the top as he instructed. I cut the top part of the counter off, sanded and reglued and repainted. I was trying for accuracy, as much as I could. The maker's instructions and video have it wrong. Picture below from the FISD ANH E11 Reference Thread. Kids and most people would never know. People can fault the product but a few tweaks here and there make it a whole lot better and accurate. Yours looks sweet the way it is. Nice job!

You can change whatever you want. It's called "customizing". I added a window and scope decal. The E11 Blaster Reference wasn't around when the kit was originally made. Thankfully it is now so we can fix the kit to make it more acceptable to people on these boards. I've seen plenty of positive comments for absolutely terrible looking blasters built from Home Depot parts. From your comment I must assume people who buy Harbro or Disney blasters have extra small cod pieces? Consider the motto "Troopers Helping Troopers", right? This kit is a decent base to start from, better than a Rubies, IMO.

My experience was very good and I really like the end product. I think he was nice and honest. Regarding the FISD, he wasn't greeted in the most respectful manner by members of FISD on his introduction page so you might want to cut the guy some slack. Lots of nay-saying, judgmental, know-it-alls around here. The maker is a disabled retired vet and likes to make 3D printed stuff. It's obvious it isn't the most accurate replica on the market BUT it is made in America and is easily customizable. It was a fun build. The spring is too thick and bolt cocking channel is too wide and low, for example. But it can be fixed easier than getting an incomplete DD kit and hunting down a real Sterling or trying to pass off a Hasbro blaster as the real deal. The hero kit, which I got, contains 100% of everything needed to make an E11. The trigger pulls, the bolt charges, the safety switch works, the stock folds as it should and it comes with a stand. Change a few things to get "screen accurate", whatever that means.