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Falciform13

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by Falciform13

  1. I thought I had access but I guess not. https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26402
  2. My armor is nearly complete. I'm trying to build towards Centurion from the beginning. I bought my rubber gloves but also have nomex for trooping. I also have the ABS hand Guards and latex. I know that Centurion status could take a while so I'm curious what anyone troops with. I know that most don't troop with the rubber gloves so I'm wondering if people are out there with the latex or ABS hand guards. Right now I'm leaning towards gluing the latex to the nomex gloves. But I don't want to be the odd man out if I'm the only one doing that. Thoughts?
  3. Here's what it looks like. I'm not sure if you can tell but I but a 1" piece of black nylon webbing. I decided not to double up the elastic but I do have a piece of webbing on top and bottom. Basically it's a triple layer. I just need to test it now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks everyone. I did make the holes just big enough to fit the post through. The pictures are a little misleading, the holes look bigger because I took them after the elastic stretched over the snap. My bad, I didn't heat the hole as I didn't think fraying would be an issue under the snap. I like the webbing idea because I don't really like the way the abs looks.
  5. I've doubled the elastic for every snap. I didn't use a soldering iron. I wonder if that could be the problem? The ends didn't fuse? I thought of a square of abs too. My thought would be female snap, abs, two layers of elastic, then the post. Does that sound about right?
  6. I'm using the Tandy line 24 snaps Here's a pic of the shoulder bell strap. You can see the hole and the snap next to it. The snap bend as I tried unsnapping it. Here's the white shoulder strap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I'm over halfway through my build and just ran into a huge stumbling block. I chose to use the no sew snaps from Tandy. I'm now finding out that since they're so strong, they're pulling through the elastic straps (shoulder bells/shoulder straps) when trying to unsnap them. Did everyone else choose to use the sew on? Or did I do something wrong. I've even doubled up the elastic. I'd hate to rip the whole thing apart and start over. If I have to, I'm glad I used E6000.
  8. Great I just ran into another problem. I chose to use all non sew snaps. Today I added the snaps to the 3/4" black elastic strap on my shoulder bell. I tested it by snapping it into the white shoulder strap. Unfortunately, these Tandy snaps are so heavy duty that the snap pulled right through the elastic. Has anyone experienced this? I wonder if I can strengthen the snap with E6000. Thoughts?
  9. I added more gray to the frown so hopefully it's a little better. Now I have another problem. Today I finally drilled the 3rd hole for the right ear. I must not have drilled it properly because now it's "bunched" up causing a big gap. I'm not sure what to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. To me something doesn't look quite right with the frown. Anyone have any ideas? Or is it just me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks Brad and Jorge. I've been putting the shins off for a while. I'll work on those next.
  12. So I started this post because I was worried about the return edge/brackets on my chest plate. Well, I took the plunge and finally drilled the holes after putting it off for so long. Happy to say it's ok (for now). Working on the elastic loops. That will be the real test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks Tony. I wanted to keep all these questions in my build thread but no one seems to see it.
  14. I've been searching and can't seem to find it. Is there an approved color for the det? Is it the same gray as the ab plate buttons and/or helmet?
  15. Ok. I started sizing the shins. I put on the boots and tried dry fitting the shins. The opening over the boot is way too small. I'm thinking that I may need to use a heat gun to widen it. Any suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I got a chance to work on the helmet while pieces are glueing. I shaped the ears which is a pain in the butt. I got them on but I think I need to shape a little more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I trimmed the biceps down to 20mm. I think I'm going to keep it that way in order to stay proportional to the forearm. I'm keeping the forearm at 20mm because as of now I'm squeezing to get it in. I won't be able to get my hand through if I go smaller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks Tony. I can probably trim my forearms a bit more. Not sure about the biceps though. How do you think the biceps look? Do you think 15mm strips would be ok on the 25mm (total) butt joint?
  19. Here's what I have so. Right now but the biceps are trimmed with the butt joints at 25mm. My right forearm is also trimmed to 25mm. The left forearm hasn't been trimmed yet. How does it look? What do you guys think about sizing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Randy, it does, maybe I'm overthinking it but it seems like all the parts would be so small/narrow. I just hesitant to cut too much.
  21. Thanks Guys for your input and I apologize if I'm a little dense. My body type is close to the those of the original actors used - 5'10" about 160 lbs. Right now I have the biceps and forearms trimmed a slightly bigger. In order words not trimmed to 15mm. When I started cutting my cover strips and putting them against the pieces, I wasn't sure if it looked quite right. Most pics that I'm seeing from other builds do not look like they are using the 15mm strips. I understand that it's probably because of different body types. So, I guess I revert back to my original question. Is it "ok" to glue the 15mm strip onto the flattened joint that is more then 15mm? Or should I trim it down to 15mm so the strip covers the entire area. Also, from what I'm understanding, the front and back joints should be uniform and shouldn't differ greatly.
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