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Khazid

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Khazid

  1. Curing is the critical piece. If the paint is cured the toxins are essentially gone. Yes, the paint itself is toxic, but the amounts of cured paint you would have to ingest to have issues is significant; as in doing it purposely. Once the paint is dry to the touch take a fan and point it towards the bucket to promote airflow. Leave it running for a few hours, then tilt the bucket opening on a 45-75 degree angle and let sit for several days in a well ventilates area. Take a sniff, if you smell the paint, continue letting it cure. If there is no smell, you should be fine.

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  2. Build Log – 9/13-9/27 – Strapping & Bucket

    Picking up right where I left off it was time to finish the snap plates. In their current condition, the snap itself prohibits the plate from making contact with the armor. To fix this, I used the tried and true method of a heat gun. I quickly made a press by drilling a 5/8” hole in a scrap piece of wood trimmed from a 5 gallon paint stir stick. A piece of scrap oak was my heat barrier to the workbench with a folded over piece of painters tape to hold the snap plate in position while heating.

     th_Armor-152.jpg 

    Apply heat to one plate at a time until a sheen is just visible on the outside edge. Use the stir stick scrap to press down and flatten out the plate. Transition to a cooling plate, which for me was the back of my tabletop vise. Here is a picture of a treated plate (left) versus a plate that was just assembled (right). The treated plate will now sit flush against the armor for mounting.

    th_Armor-153.jpg

    Snap plates were now installed in the kidney, back plate, crotch and shoulder bells. It was also time to add in the elastic to hold the biceps in place. I used a cloth measuring tape to get the length of elastic needed. This was measured with the bicep in its place. I then added 2 inches to this measurement, giving me 1 inch per side to mount into the shoulder bell. The mounting position was traced lightly in pencil so that I would know where to stop when gluing. For photo taking purposes, I used a sharpie for one edge so that it can be seen easier.

    th_Armor-166.jpg

    Glue both sides in with E-6000 and clamp in place for dry time.

    th_Armor-167.jpg

    Snap plates were aligned on the bottom of the back plate and the bottom of the kidney using the Cohag diagrams. Each plate was positioned about 1” from the return edge. Here is what the back plate looked like (this is the inside view).

    th_Armor-165.jpg

    I repeated the above for the bottom of the kidney plate (butt plate edge) and for the crotch. Then all of this was left to set.

    th_Armor-168.jpg

    After the try time had passed, I used painters tape to hold together the back to kidney, and kidney to butt plate. I was then able to mark the armor on where the opposite snap plates will go for even alignment. I don’t have a final picture of that drying, but here is how I lied the three pieces up.

    th_Armor-169.jpg

    Now it was back to the bucket. First up was installing the cap and front plate with pop rivets. The MTK kit comes with the needed rivets and washers. Here is each side with the riveting completed. I decided to use 2 rivets per side to hold the edge close to tube in place.

    th_Armor-155.jpg

    th_Armor-156.jpg

    An interesting side note. Once the MTK cap and front is installed the right hand side does have a gap. I would have panicked, if a fellow squad mate that already has a completed MTK didn’t warn me about this. A combination of the ear and then the S-Trim cover this up sufficiently. Mike, if you are reading this and can change that buck a little to give a better pull it would sure help the builders out.

    th_Armor-157.jpg

    Now for the dreaded ears….I will not bore you with how I did this, instead find Gazmosis’ Tutorial. It saved me a ton of work and I am extremely happy with the results. Yes, there are gaps on each side, but I like the gaps and I tried to keep them as screen accurate to some of the screen shots we see for the death star TK’s. In total, I spent just a little over an hour on each ear to get to the following.

    Rear Right

    th_Armor-158.jpg

    Front Right

    th_Armor-161.jpg

    Rear Left

    th_Armor-159.jpg

    Front Left

    th_Armor-160.jpg

    Rear View

    th_Armor-163.jpg

    Front View

    th_Armor-162.jpg

    With the ears done I could finally install the Hovi Mic Tips. Getting closer now, the bucket is starting to feel mean.

    th_Armor-164.jpg

    I now needed to shorten the screws for the ears. I used a sharpie inside the bucket to mark each bolt for trimming.. Make sure that when you do the actual trimming to leave enough length to start the nut on the bolt. Here is one of the bolts in my vice ready for trimming with the Dremel cutting wheel.

    th_Armor-170.jpg

    I made sure to keep track of each bolt on where it would return once I was ready to do the final attaching of the ears. The bolts were then pushed into a cardboard box so that I could prime them with a satin white metal spray paint. Here are the bolts after priming.

    th_Armor-171.jpg

    After primer dried the bolts each got two thin layers of gloss white paint. I took the opportunity to paint the thigh ammo pop rivet heads as well. I did not prime the pop rivets. Sorry, no picture of these steps. I did get a picture of the velcro being clamped to my boot straps. I do this to give the adhesive time to cure, which takes about 15-30 minutes depending on how hot/humid it is.

    th_Armor-154.jpg

    I wish I could say it is getting close enough to set a dead line, but it just feels like all the details are taking soooooo long. However; each brief piece of progress is one less thing to be done. I even get to mark some things off this week.

     

    Updated Final Checklist:

    Add Velcro to boots. Going to use the hooks on the boots and the loops on the inside bottom of the calves.

    Install split rivets in left joint of Kidney & Ab plates

    Glue shoulder bridges to the chest plate

    Make snap plates for strapping.

    Strap armor to fit.

    Paint rivets on armor:

    Ab & Kidney rivets

    Thigh ammo pack rivets

    Assemble Bucket:

    Cap attached to Front

    Ears Attached

    S-Trim attached

    Install Bucket interior:

    Install Fans

    Install EAS

    Complete electronics to external battery

    Paint bucket:

    Traps

    Tears

    Vocoder

    Ears

    Interior

    Submit photo’s for TKID, then EIB and lastly Centurion.

  3. Brandon this is awesome. Nice to see another techie try his hand at the Anker battery supply. And the vent fans, you're doing what I've only dreamed of. Cool!

     

    Very nice build so far. Great detail :jc_doublethumbup:

    Thank you Tony, I love the Anker thread in the electronics forum and it seemed natural to go for it.

    The vent fans scare me. Progress is good, but I am still nervous about it all stating camouflaged.

    Your encouragement means a lot.

  4. Ya I'm just wondering with all these people recommending DD's why no one has one for sale or pre-assembles them. Seems odd to me.

    Depending on where you live there are a lot of legal restrictions on prop weapons of this type. Sale and manufacture of them can be complicated and a real hassle. I would think this is at least one reason why you don't see assembled versions available.

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