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Cody42

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Cody42

  1. A lot of soldering of components and crimping connectors later, the main electronics are done.

     

    IMG_20191120_234656.jpg

     

    To have easy access to the battery, I printed a new mag. There is a small spring in the bottom, which holds the battery in place. Here you can see all the parts of the new mag:

    IMG_20191120_235235.jpg

     

    There are connectors glued in place inside the main body and the mag, which connect once the mag is fully inserted. So

    IMG_20191120_235306.jpg

     

    Glock closed with all electronics inside:

    IMG_20191120_235108.jpg

     

    Unfortunately the sound is not very loud from inside the blaster. But if it is not too loud around, you can still hear it go pew pew. For such a small blaster, I am satisfied with the result.

     

    Blaster fully assembled and operational:

    IMG_20191207_122015.jpg

     

    IMG_20191207_122041.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. After some iterations on the pcb and the new slide and some failed prints the slide is now successfully printed.

     

    IMG_20191110_115749.jpg

     

    I made a lot more space inside, by making it a single piece instead of having a separate ejector and barrel end. Inside you can see the mock pcb mounted with a single screw.

    IMG_20191110_115814.jpg

     

    Fitting test of all components. Everything fits in. B)

    IMG_20191110_120355.jpg

     

    Finally a screenshot of the final pcb design. It is currently being manufactured and should arrive sometime next week.

     

    SE-44_Board_smd_Leiterplatte.jpg

  3. 22 hours ago, tkrestonva said:

    Nice! Yeah, not a lot of space to work with. I've love to see the result of this. Better yet, I'd like to know how they did in in TLJ since you can clearly see the indicator light on in Phasma's SE44-C along with the one that Rose used during the hangar scene onboard the Supremacy.

    Yes that would be nice to know. However, I doubt that we could replicate that. With a professional workshop and access to more advanced materials and electronic components it probabily is a lot easier.
    I'll just use a regular 5mm square led as the indicator light. Not the most accurate solution, but at least it will glow nicely.

     

    20 hours ago, T-Jay said:

    Curious to see this thing in real life... ;)

    Of course you will get to see it. Hopefully quite soon.

     

    18 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

    Nice work I also added some electronics to my blaster, although I just hacked at it with a Dremel ;)

     

    That looks and sounds great. I'll be quite happy if my results are similar.

     

    I've also got a tiny update. The printer is currently printing the new slide:

    IMG_20191101_170924.thumb.jpg.31d94a2cd6d20f2004bc93376d21e64d.jpg

     

    This morning, I already printed and painted the muzzle led holder:

    IMG_20191101_170946.thumb.jpg.ea1225c5e34a98dd5a480d39d0fc215c.jpg

     

    ...just to notice, that it is too large and I won't be able to assemble the blaster. So, back into blender and adapt the model:

    2101069899_Anmerkung2019-11-01171821.thumb.jpg.eb5c22b8f81259393c77f09243c0dee0.jpg

     

    That's it for today.

    • Like 1
  4. Back when The Force Awakens hit the cinemas I built my own SE-44C Blaster. It is still the only blaster I have that goes with my First Order Stormtrooper.

     

    IMG_7202.thumb.jpg.349f50032e090ec3ef59bab756bf2d23.jpg

     

    A few days ago I got the idea to build electronics that fit inside the small blaster. I printed it hollow, so there is some room for electronics. However, space is very limited inside. I will reprint some parts to maximize the available space. Additionally I'll get a pcb made which will hold the main components and keep things clean an organized. Having a mess of cables inside the small space would make things even more complicated.

     

    photo_2019-10-31_18-13-16.thumb.jpg.60386b1f00574eb2a331329f07d57563.jpg

     

    So this is where I currently am. From left to right:
    Mock up of the pcb to test sizing, current Glock sled with new hollow end cap behind it, Glock receiver with microswitch for the trigger installed, electronics on a breadboard.

     

    Currently I'm finalizing the new sled to fit all the main components:

    764061831_Anmerkung2019-10-31181840.thumb.jpg.104377d1847c128638e9ecb46252bc4c.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  5. I must have stopped the movie a dozen times trying to figure out how the front strap is secured in the front. Best shots are when she's scaling the base wall. It almost appears to be secured under the folding grip. Not sure

    I've already posted the answer somewhere around this forums... You can clearly see the attachment in a sequence right after Chewie captures Phasma.

    http://caps.pictures/201/5-starwars-force/full/sw-force-awakens-movie-screencaps.com-11516.jpg

  6. None of the two helmets is completely accurate. I have to agree with Dan, the supposed original looks very much like anovos and not like an actual production used helmet. The angle of the mic tip on the anovos standard line however is quite accurate, though the shape and positioning is still a little bit off.

     

    Look at this helmet for example: http://cdni.wired.co.uk/1920x1280/d_f/EP7_IA_117198.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. Which Anovos helmet are you refering to? The standard (plastic) and premier line (fiberglass) differ quite a bit. While the standard line has the cheaper materials and looks "cheaper" than the premier, my current impression is that the standard line helmet is more accurate. The _/\_ is much more pronounced on the standard line (at least my impression). I will get some side by side pictures of the front this weekend, if no one else is faster.

     

    For now I have one side by side comparision of standard line (left), movie (center) and premier line (right). Please note that the image quality of the premier line is a bit inferior, so it looks worse than it is in the small details.

    post-21098-0-31158400-1462994818_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. I just returned from thecinema where I rewatched the movie and paid special attention to the TK variants:

     

    I haven't noted any trooper with vest and pauldron and only one with a Backpack (see the screenshot posted in this thread. But other than that there seems to be every configuration in the movie.
     
    What is fairly consistent: Most (not all) troopers wearing a vest have an F-11D with the extended stock. Most standard troopers carry the F-11D and no sidearm.
     
    Notable examples:

     

     

    There is at least one trooper with the tonfa seen briefly during the raid of the Jakku village. I haven't had the time to check if he also carries a shield and/or blaster.
     

    There is a trooper without vest taking a heavy blaster (FWMB-10) from a weapon stand. He prepares to fire at the TIE fighter with Finn and Poe on board but gets blasted away before he can do so.

     

    The trooper who takes Chewies Bowcaster after they are captures in the ruins of Maz place wears a vest but is only armed with a standard F-11D (without the extended stock)

     

    The stormtrooper fighting Finn with the tonfa carries shield and F-11D, but drops both and then draws the tonfa from his holster when he notices Finn with the lightsaber.

     

     

  9. The trick there is that the HWT isn't the only trooper with a vest. If you don't carry weapons, it becomes difficult to say whether it's HWT or just the guy with the vest and rifle.

    I can't recall that there was any trooper wearing a vest armed with something smaller than an F-11D with mounted stock (like Phasma's blaster). I'll pay attention to that when I re-watch the movie tonight.

  10. Two CRLs will give rise to consistency problems and more "housekeeping". If anything changes on the base trooper, then the HWT has to be updated too. The only benefit I see is that the base trooper CRL is "cleaner".

     

    Also, you missed that the riot gear trooper carried a blaster. The trooper drops blaster and shield before drawing the tonfa from the holster.  ;)

  11. I'd love to have FN in front of my number. Who stops me from calling myself FN-4172? Nobody I assume. As long as FN ist not an official designation for differen 501st costumes I don't see a problem. Just my official costume designation is and will be TK-4172. When trooping in theaters since the premiere it made sense to me to answer children who ask me "What's your name" with "FN-4172" as a direct reference to Finns FN designation which is mentioned prominently in the movie. Also the box where I keep the armor has a label that says FN-4172 just because I didn't want to reuse the TK-label of my old stromtrooper (now sandtrooper) armor.

     

    As for the official designations, Clint's arguments make sense to me. A lot of extremely different costumes already share the same identifier and for everyone who wants to build a stormtrooper this should be the place to go to and not yet another forum.

    • Like 2
  12. Your gaskets look like fabric to me... but yeah, the Anovos ones are definitly to short. 

     

    I just compared your pictures to mine and tried to measure the distances. I'm only about 5'9" and my shins and thighs are about an inch further apart than yours. My initial impression was wrong, you are absolutly right: you need longer gaskets. Higher boots, like the TFA boots from IB, might also do the trick. To me it looks like that is where Tony gets his extra height.

  13. Amazing! Looks great.  :)

     

    I'm not sure if you need longer knee gaskets. Just play around a bit with moving the leg pieces around a bit to find a position where it looks good and is comfortable.

    Also, if the shins don't want to slide over the boots, try to put some white tape around the very top of the boots to tighten them up. That might improve the look a bit if you have a problem there.

  14. Looks great!  :duim:

     

    You might want to fiddle a bit with the position of the shins and forearms, small adjustments make big difference in mobility on this one. I wear the shins a few inches higher and most importantly I rotated my forearms so that the cutout on the coverpiece (the one with the rail greeble) lines up with the elbow crease. I managed to reach my helmet that way.  :D

    • Like 1
  15. Here are my thoughts how you could improve the fit:

     

    1. You are missing the detonator in the back  ;) That should push the back plate up and forward, rotating around the arm. I'd line up the edge of the chest plate under the arm with the rear edge of the rectangle on the sides of the back plate. Then the chest should line up way better with the contour of the yoke. The neck hole should turn out square.

     

    2. See above, should fit better once you lined up back/yoke and chest. Most people have a strap connecting the two yoke parts across the chest with a snap in the center, that connects to the chest.

     

    3. I don't have perfect fit there yet. The butt plate should be a little higher, relative to the kidney plate. The belt sits on the "step" of the but plate and overlaps the kidney plate just a little bit (1/8" or so). Also, I'd mount the cod plate onto the extension of the ab plate, not below. I have adjustable suspenders on the ab/kidney assembly, adjustable straps on the thighs and now experiment where it looks best.

  16. Don't be too scared of the glue, but scared enough not to rush things  ;)

     

    1. Had the same problem. I left it the way it was and just filled it a bit with abs paste and bondo. The side box mounting area will be covered by the box itself.

    2. Yes, I had to force some parts to fit or heat and bend them. But be extra cautious if you heat the parts up, it is dangerously easy to screw up and have them lose shape!

    • Like 1
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