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87ninefiveone

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Posts posted by 87ninefiveone

  1. The T/MC bucket should have come with a piece of green acetate that can be used for the lenses. For my lenses I made a paper pattern by tracing the opening then added about a quarter inch all around. I then put the lens over the pattern, made some dots with a non-permanent market and cut two lenses to fit. Mine are just hot glued into place, a single blob on the inside and one each on the top and bottom outside corners. The other option you have is to go the screen used route. Purchase a dark green acetate safety face shield (about $10), cut about a 2-3" wide strip and mount it under tension by drilling a few holes in the face shield which will drop onto the screw posts leftover from bucket assembly. Both options are fine as long as the lenses are flat. Don't worry about having a slight opening between the lenses and mask as it will provide a bit of extra ventilation and is screen accurate.

     

    On to the requested photos. ATA bucket is for comparison purposes and painted in ANH style, T/MC kit is partially finished and ESB.

     

    hUO7OUn.jpg

     

  2. I'm finishing up a T/MC bucket in ESB style now, don't have a pic readily available, but the fourth tooth on each side wasn't too bad to pick out on the one I have. I think the T/MC kits are made from 0.090" ABS though which is why they have a bit less detail. I can post up a pic tomorrow if you still need it.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  3. For what its worth if you're considering ATA, I got on the list for a kit and it was 13mo before i got an email that it was about to be made. Good news is there's plenty of time to save up, bad news is that there's a 13 mo wait. He's apparently quite popular these days.

     

    Might want to consider the $350 Anovos preorder if you want a good deal on something that will ship in a shorter period.

     

    As for build threads just do some digging there's a ton of WIP threads for each type of TK.

  4. The steer I've seen posted before is that the front cover strips should always be 15mm and the rear strips can be whatever thickness is needed to make them fit.

     

    During my build I did the biceps first as is so often recommended and what I found was that being fairly tall my initial placement of the biceps was too high (as in the biceps may not necessarily be right on your biceps). If you move the placement down closer to the elbow where they should be on the final build you'll likely find that you can take 5-10mm off of the rear cover strips due to the reduced circumference of your lower biceps. I think I went from a 25mm cover strip in the rear to having 15mm front and 20mm rear with that adjustment.

  5. Be careful of ordering plastic for cover strips from a random vendor. You may get lucky, but you may also find out there are 421 distinct shades of white. For instance the cover strip material I was supplied with came in two colors of white, one that matched the suit for the outside and one that was more of an off white which was marked for inside cover strips.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. Hate to bring a thread back from the grave, but....

     

    Anyone else order a kit from Doopy Doo recently and have issues with the seller being unresponsive? Ordered a Hasbro conversion kit about 2-3 weeks ago and it's never been marked as shipped on eBay and repeated emails haven't produced a response. I don't mind waiting a bit for hand made goodness, but it would be nice to get a reply so I know what's going on at least.

  7. I'm 6'2" and have the same issue. Calves are a solid 2-3 inches too short which makes for a lot of black around the knees issues with the boots not staying put under the calves. I did as spycee noted and put some Velcro on the front of the boots with a tab that sticks up and connects to the shin. This minimizes noise from Velcro when walking and seems to work okay but still tends to let the boots slip out when you do a lot of walking.

  8. I would try heating or cooling it. Stick it in the freezer for half an hour or so then take it out and immediately try to scrape it off, the cold might make it just brittle enough that it comes off a bit easier. If that doesn't work you might try a blow dryer as heating the material for a bit might make it a bit more pliable and easier to remove. Good luck and be sure to let us know what worked for you!

  9. Interesting topic. Short answer is probably yes...but so what? It might not be socially acceptable to prance around in a costume pretending to be a character from a movie made 30+ years ago, but dammint its fun and kids like it. And in the end that's what its all about, having fun and raising some money for charity while spreading the love for some movies that are universally liked. Sure you'll get some weird looks, but you can't please everyone.

    • Like 3
  10.  

    • Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
    • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
    personally I'd pass on those boots.

     

    much better to get a proper pair of jodphurs anyway?

    Better yes, but its not always practical to spend another $70-80 and have a months long wait if all you want is basic approval. The ones posted looks a lot like caboots which are fine from what I've read.

  11. A bit late to the party, but I'm 6'2" ish and 205lbs with a slender build and just finished with a t/mc kit which is screen derived. I'm definitely pushing the boundary of screen used armor as far as height goes and had to add 2" side shims on both sides to get closure. There's also a large gap between the upper chest and shoulders to deal with as well. If I did it again I would have gone for one of the larger kits suggested above. Both the ATA and T/MC helmets fit fine though and don't look out of proportion.

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