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Everything posted by dereferenced

  1. The Dave M style are 15 -16mm long, I could not find my standard set I must have organized it into oblivion. But I believe they were around the same length just each strip was wider and evenly spaced. Pictures below to reference the scale.
  2. I have a spare set of the standard stencils from trooperbay that I did not use. I can measure them when I get home tonight. I can also measure the lines on my helmet that I made with the hand painted stencils from trooperbay also know as the Dave M stencils. This is because they are nearly exact copies of the stripes from the Dave M helmet pictured below. I will post the numbers with pictures tonight. Pictures from http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm
  3. No you only want to cut out 4 on each side of the frown. The 8 teeth in the clr is referring the the holes that you make. Edit: It actually seems like some of the originals have the 5th hole cut out when I was looking below. However a lot of them also do not. Maybe someone else can chime in. As for the frown take a look below for some helpful reference pictures. If you have a file set they are very useful for this. I picked one up for around 10 dollars and it had square and flat files that were very helpful in smoothing out the teeth and giving them a more rectangular look.
  4. Trimmed the shoulder straps tonight and was planning on gluing them on ... but that led to more messing around with the harness lengths for the torso. And eventually I thought it best to just wait to glue the straps on until everything else is sized up properly. I did however come up with a better way to adjust the sizing as I was getting tired of retaping . It works on the same concept of adjustable staps on laptop bags / purses. All you need is some tri-glides, I got them from amazon as an addon item for 5 bucks. In the last picture you can see that when pulled the tension keeps the lengths from changing. The T indicates the top and B would be the bottom of the connections. These would be where your snap plates are, what I did was just tape the triglides to the armor and taped the bottom part of the elastic to the other end see below. So you can adjust everything easily and then get the measurements to make the proper straps later. No one else was around tonight so I was not able to get everything together as its hard to do by yourself. I might actually use these triglides for the actual strapping system that way I can change the lengths later if needed. At least for the chest to ab, the backside connections are all short enough I am not sure it would make sense to use this sort of system. If I did use it I would use binder clips or something to stop the strap was being pulled through.
  5. She does really hate the costume, I fear we are to become enemies as ewoks seldom like stormtroopers. Glad it can help, just remember to wait 1 day for the white to dry even if it seems like its dry to the touch when the other paint gets on top it starts to mix. Thanks. I will be working on this more this week, so hopefully more progress updates soon.
  6. + 1 for trooperbay stencils. They are really really really worth it, I would say get the hand painted look, I switched when I redid my tubestripes and I like it much more. The left is the hand painted look and the right is the standard. The right placement is far too low, but I was just showing the curve of them here. Here is a link to how I redid my stripes. I used Testor's Easy Lift off after searching on this forum and therpf.com for what is safest to use on plastic. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23509-dereferenced-stunt-build-tmc/?p=309271
  7. Update: I have been pretty busy with work and other things on the weekend. But I did go to the fabric store to get material for the belt. I also worked on my helmet a bit more, putting in the padding and some screw covers thanks to a tip from Tray. I tried serveral hardware stores for the screw covers and finally found them at lowes. I really like the look they give and keeps you from snagging your ear on them. I also tried placing the fans but broke one of the connectors on the battery pack trying different positions, so I will have to re-solder that connection before I can finish mounting everything. Bonus cat ewok costume my girlfriend made today for my sisters cat. She is less than happy about the ordeal.
  8. These are actually sold on the boards here by TK6294. He also sells the icomm and aker amps. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23826-fs-flexible-posable-full-size-mannequins-%E2%80%93in-black/ You can get a bit more information there. I bought one and am happy with it. I had been looking on ebay for other options before buying it and I could not find a cheaper flexible mannequin. Though with enough patience and luck you may find one.
  9. You can check here for information on the different kits. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ As for the wait times you will have to contact the different manufacturers. The wait times can be many months to as little as a few weeks. As for the armor for a shorter person, most will work but you will just have to size them to fit. You will probably just want to avoid the kits easier for larger troopers to modify but even those can be trimmed down. There are a lot of helpful build threads you can look at to see smaller people trimming the armor to fit them tighter. Pandatroopers's comes to mind, but there are many others.
  10. Also you can mask off the area you will be gluing and sand with a rough grit which lets the glue adhere better. I sand both items put the glue on to sit for 3 minutes or so and then put the two pieces together and apply clamps/magnets.
  11. Nice job on the reflective barrel. I would be interested to see more pictures of how you did it. Overall looks like you are making good progress. Keep it up!
  12. Yeah it was definitely the most time consuming piece so far. Those ears took me forever to trim. I did not post much on the building of the helmet here but I have lots of pictures here http://www.flickr.com/photos/dereferenced/sets/72157633486516080/ . I know they are different kits but it may help.
  13. Here is a shot of the shins. You will see on the left I cut a bit too much off the top. Luckily this will be covered by the knee plate so I did not bother trimming the other side to match. My right shin I can not tell if I should have the inner side moved down (inner when on, its on the outside now. I thought it best to have the tops sit flush rather than the bottoms. I think they are good enough as is though. I was a bit worried before that I would need to shim the backs however for the most part they fit relatively well. They are tight on the upper of my calves but still close. Playing around with the height they sit on my leg seems to help. I will get shots with the under-suit and boots later this week. I did not feel like getting them out last night. Right shin Pictures on
  14. Thanks Eric I'm really happy with how the helmet turned out.
  15. Hey Everyone, Figured I would post my information here with my own results. I started off in 2010 at 314 pounds I was 24, 5'11". I spent a year doing calorie counting and aerobic exercise to drop down to 191 pounds. Starting out my routine was as follows: Morning walk 2 miles, 1 mile out so you are forced to come back ... gives you no choice to get tired and stop like I would sometimes do when walking in loops. Breakfast 300-400 calories Lunch 500-600 calories Dinner 800-1000 calories After dinner I would walk another 2 miles. With calorie counting there are really no cheat days. If you want to extra or something bad for you you can compensate by working out more or being more strict the rest of the week. In general 1 pound is 3500 calories negative. Calories eaten - BMR (calories for just being alive basically) - calories from exercise = Net for the day Sum those up for the week and divide by 3500 and you get a basic plan for how much you would lose that week. Water weight and all that can throw things off but its a pretty good measure. For the first 6-7 months that is really all I did, as my BMR went down due to lost weight I started walking longer. Eventually I started jogging and got into running with the couch to 5k program. I recommend it to people once you have lose enough weight to be comfortable on your knees. Since my main way of dealing with this is longer time spent exercising I recommend book on tapes to people. I get tired of my music and it really helps take your mind off it. To track stuff I have a spreadsheet where I enter in my weight each week, that I made for one of those 90 day challenges. After the first year, I spent some time and get down to around 174, but I find it hard to stay at this weight due to eating patterns/vacations and holidays. Every 3 or 4 months I will refocus and get down to those low weights. Currently I am at 200 pounds and looking to get to 170 for my 3rd year anniversary of starting to lose weight in November. This would be the lowest weight I have been at if I can get there, my previous best was 172. Plan: Run 6-7 miles a day Calorie intake around 1600. This is pretty much what I did at the start of the year (197 jan 7th -174 april 14th) to get down to weight for a wedding. 3 vacations and a work trip later and I am back at 200 pounds, but I know I can lose it again. I may throw in some p90x which I have done in the past but running is my favorite as I can just zone out and listen to a good book. I will post weekly here just to check in on my weight progress and miles run, just to add a bit more accountability for myself. Earlier in the year I ran about 500 miles to get to that weight so I want to hit that number again as well. First week back on routine is usually pretty good results due to all the water weight. I started up again yesterday, ran 7 miles and lean cuisine for dinner. On a separate note: My stormtrooper kit is my reward for losing all the weight. I have been talking about it since I was in highschool. My goal for it is to finish before Halloween. I may switch from working on my armor to weapon until I am back down to 184 as this is a weight I usually hover around. Just so the fitting of the armor isn't much looser down the road. Currently I have been avoiding the legs and shimming the ab/kidney due to my weight gains. Pictures 2009 Christmas 314 pounds or around there I did not start weighing myself until I was trying to lose weight. 2009 Graduation 2010-2011 November Comparison April 2013 174 Current
  16. Just like your DVH thread, this one is great. Keep up the good work.
  17. Looking great so far. Definitely going to be getting an ikea leg for my build.
  18. Started working on the legs. I have the front of the shins glued. I opted to not do an inner coverstrip to start as it made it easier to glue if it feels like it needs extra support I will add one later as I already cut them. I have also roughly trimmed the thighs, dropboxes, and leg accessories. Then I started gluing the snap plates on but ran out of clamps.
  19. Painting the helmet Figured I would post a picture walk through of how I did it. Traps Mark off with 3m artists curves tape Then paint the black lines. What I would have changed here is to do the round corners manually. They look ok with the paint but would have been a bit nicer if I did not go up to the tape. Then paint the grey area after the black has dried. I did not tape off to paint the grey edges, just took my time. If you mess up and it drips down onto the black you can fix it easily enough my remarking your bottom line and just putting black over it when it dries. Marking off the cheek traps I tried using stencils I cut out of frisket paper but I had the hardest time getting them to go inside the area. Then I tried with that tape and it worked out well. You can also see how I did the ears. I used the blue tape to get the straight lines and free painted the bend. Painting the vents Again I thought about using stencils I cut out of frsket paper, but I couldn't get them too come out cleanly. I didn't think I could use the tape because the handpainted look should have wavey lines. I ended up stretching the tape to make it curvy. It takes a bit of time but I would not have been able to free paint the lines as well. Frown Again I used the tape. Chin T/MC Kit comes with stencils for this. Tube stripes I went over this in my earlier post. The pictures you see in this response with the blue on the stencil is with the stencil too far down the cheek. Good vs Bad placement, you can also see the difference between hand painted and regular stencils from trooperbay. Finished
  20. In other news I have been working on my build. I just have not had time to really write up as detailed posts as I would have liked. I have pretty much finished the helmet after having repainted the tube stripes. Initially I painted them too low and the stencils bled through a bit. This time i used the hand painted stencils from trooperbay. I am much happier with the results. Removing the enamel paint. To get the paint off I used Testor's Easy Lift Off. Steps: 1: Using a paper towel to soak up the liquid and then squeeze / dabbed it onto the stripes. 2: Allow it to set for about 15 minutes. You will notice it puff up a little first starting at the edges. 3: Using another paper towel with a bit of the testors, scrub the paint off. You do not have to use too much pressure and it comes off in chunks similar to an eraser on paper. Repeat the process as many times as it takes. It took me 3 to get it completely. You can see its partially absorbed and puffing up on the edges. This is the second time I let it soak and started to rub it off. Old vs New Below Notice how much that extra couple of mm affects the overall look. For reference this is what my stencil placement looked like. For me it was hard to tell what the overall look would be with the stencil on there. I guess I just do not have that artistic ability to judge from the negative. Another quick note, if you use the trick to paint white to keep the stencil from bleeding wait a day for the white to dry before painting the blue layer. Even if it is dry to the touch when you put the other paint on it will mix with the white and mess up the color.
  21. Yes Keith, I really regret having not done something like that on my forearms. I spent a couple hours tonight picking excess glue off my biceps and forearms. Went a bit overboard on the e6000.
  22. Worked on the helmet more this weekend. Man those ears are tricky! It took much longer than I thought they would, but they are looking pretty good. I think I need to trim the left side top piece so that the black strip appears straighter. I trimmed originally to the mold line, I dont know if I just have it slanted with the way I connected the front and back or people usually add the bow manually. But in the first picture it appears the go down to the right of the picture by the left eye. Either way I think it should be up 2 mm or so to match the other side and I think I can do it easily enough just sanding more off that line. Its too late to do anything else as I'm not changing those ear holes. I will trim a bit more on towards the bottom on the left ear (my left), that way when I pull it towards the S trim it will sit a bit more flush. You can see what I mean in these picture. Then I painted the inside.
  23. Glad it is helping you out some. I have finally got around to organizing my pictures on flickr. I put them into a collection and then they are broken out into sets for the different pieces. So you can see any extra pictures I take, usually its a lot of in progress shots or different angles. This weekend I was busy helping someone move and then home for mother's day. Hoping to get the helmet and harness finished by the end of this weekend though. Then I will make a more detailed post on the helmet construction and harness system.
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