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dereferenced

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About dereferenced

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philadelphia, PA

Standard Info

  • Name
    Brian
  • 501st Unit
    Carida
  1. The Dave M style are 15 -16mm long, I could not find my standard set I must have organized it into oblivion. But I believe they were around the same length just each strip was wider and evenly spaced. Pictures below to reference the scale.
  2. I have a spare set of the standard stencils from trooperbay that I did not use. I can measure them when I get home tonight. I can also measure the lines on my helmet that I made with the hand painted stencils from trooperbay also know as the Dave M stencils. This is because they are nearly exact copies of the stripes from the Dave M helmet pictured below. I will post the numbers with pictures tonight. Pictures from http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm
  3. No you only want to cut out 4 on each side of the frown. The 8 teeth in the clr is referring the the holes that you make. Edit: It actually seems like some of the originals have the 5th hole cut out when I was looking below. However a lot of them also do not. Maybe someone else can chime in. As for the frown take a look below for some helpful reference pictures. If you have a file set they are very useful for this. I picked one up for around 10 dollars and it had square and flat files that were very helpful in smoothing out the teeth and giving them a more rectangular look.
  4. Trimmed the shoulder straps tonight and was planning on gluing them on ... but that led to more messing around with the harness lengths for the torso. And eventually I thought it best to just wait to glue the straps on until everything else is sized up properly. I did however come up with a better way to adjust the sizing as I was getting tired of retaping . It works on the same concept of adjustable staps on laptop bags / purses. All you need is some tri-glides, I got them from amazon as an addon item for 5 bucks. In the last picture you can see that when pulled the tension keeps the lengths from changing. The T indicates the top and B would be the bottom of the connections. These would be where your snap plates are, what I did was just tape the triglides to the armor and taped the bottom part of the elastic to the other end see below. So you can adjust everything easily and then get the measurements to make the proper straps later. No one else was around tonight so I was not able to get everything together as its hard to do by yourself. I might actually use these triglides for the actual strapping system that way I can change the lengths later if needed. At least for the chest to ab, the backside connections are all short enough I am not sure it would make sense to use this sort of system. If I did use it I would use binder clips or something to stop the strap was being pulled through.
  5. She does really hate the costume, I fear we are to become enemies as ewoks seldom like stormtroopers. Glad it can help, just remember to wait 1 day for the white to dry even if it seems like its dry to the touch when the other paint gets on top it starts to mix. Thanks. I will be working on this more this week, so hopefully more progress updates soon.
  6. + 1 for trooperbay stencils. They are really really really worth it, I would say get the hand painted look, I switched when I redid my tubestripes and I like it much more. The left is the hand painted look and the right is the standard. The right placement is far too low, but I was just showing the curve of them here. Here is a link to how I redid my stripes. I used Testor's Easy Lift off after searching on this forum and therpf.com for what is safest to use on plastic. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23509-dereferenced-stunt-build-tmc/?p=309271
  7. Update: I have been pretty busy with work and other things on the weekend. But I did go to the fabric store to get material for the belt. I also worked on my helmet a bit more, putting in the padding and some screw covers thanks to a tip from Tray. I tried serveral hardware stores for the screw covers and finally found them at lowes. I really like the look they give and keeps you from snagging your ear on them. I also tried placing the fans but broke one of the connectors on the battery pack trying different positions, so I will have to re-solder that connection before I can finish mounting everything. Bonus cat ewok costume my girlfriend made today for my sisters cat. She is less than happy about the ordeal.
  8. These are actually sold on the boards here by TK6294. He also sells the icomm and aker amps. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23826-fs-flexible-posable-full-size-mannequins-%E2%80%93in-black/ You can get a bit more information there. I bought one and am happy with it. I had been looking on ebay for other options before buying it and I could not find a cheaper flexible mannequin. Though with enough patience and luck you may find one.
  9. You can check here for information on the different kits. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ As for the wait times you will have to contact the different manufacturers. The wait times can be many months to as little as a few weeks. As for the armor for a shorter person, most will work but you will just have to size them to fit. You will probably just want to avoid the kits easier for larger troopers to modify but even those can be trimmed down. There are a lot of helpful build threads you can look at to see smaller people trimming the armor to fit them tighter. Pandatroopers's comes to mind, but there are many others.
  10. Also you can mask off the area you will be gluing and sand with a rough grit which lets the glue adhere better. I sand both items put the glue on to sit for 3 minutes or so and then put the two pieces together and apply clamps/magnets.
  11. Nice job on the reflective barrel. I would be interested to see more pictures of how you did it. Overall looks like you are making good progress. Keep it up!
  12. Yeah it was definitely the most time consuming piece so far. Those ears took me forever to trim. I did not post much on the building of the helmet here but I have lots of pictures here http://www.flickr.com/photos/dereferenced/sets/72157633486516080/ . I know they are different kits but it may help.
  13. Here is a shot of the shins. You will see on the left I cut a bit too much off the top. Luckily this will be covered by the knee plate so I did not bother trimming the other side to match. My right shin I can not tell if I should have the inner side moved down (inner when on, its on the outside now. I thought it best to have the tops sit flush rather than the bottoms. I think they are good enough as is though. I was a bit worried before that I would need to shim the backs however for the most part they fit relatively well. They are tight on the upper of my calves but still close. Playing around with the height they sit on my leg seems to help. I will get shots with the under-suit and boots later this week. I did not feel like getting them out last night. Right shin Pictures on
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