kupertrooper

Belt and Thermal Detonator clips are done. I used one inch wide aluminum strips. I will try to make the inner drop boxes magnetic so I can store stuff in there so I haven't attached them yet. Here's a pic of the strapping so far: Question Which end do I trim? A or B

Pretty much done on the trimming. I have a question though. What do you do if you are using the butt join method but cant afford to cut any off to align the ridges? I may run into that on my arms. Now that everything is trimmed I'm not looking forward to fitting everything. I've read this forum for a month now and I'm still pretty sure I will ruin my armor on this next phase.

My thumb is sooo sore right now..... I'm wanting to do a return edge on my chest, how do these cut lines look?

My build thread wasn't showing up correctly so I'm making a new thread.Please reply to this thread. This is the old thread: (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21041-anh-stunt-first-build-ap/page__st__20) Ok, so I've trimmed out everything but the greeves, ab, chest, back, thighs, and sniper plate. About to apply my second coat of PlastiDip to the inside of my helmet. It is not assembled yet, probably going to do that when I get into waiting on glue to dry. Should the ab/cod plate have any return edges on it? It has a cut line on it that looks like the top should have a return edge but that doesn't make sense.

Ok, I think I got the biceps figured out. This is almost like trying to visualize a staue in a block of marble... Todo tonight: 1. Paint inside of bucket - PlastiDip 2. Paint TD tube 3. Trim Chest 4. Trim Butt 5. Trim Ab 6. Trim Back By the way, I don;t see my build thread on the recent topics on the main page. O.o

Thanks. I'm working on the biceps now and getting pretty discouraged because these AP biceps don't look very similar to all the pictures I've seen.

Chookaboom, Do those cut lines look good to you?

IT'S HERE!!! My armor came in last night. I got off work kinda late so I didn't get to work on it as much as I'd like. This is what is done so far, looks like I lost my big toe too lol. I'm attempting the forearms next and I want toget some feedback on my cut lines. Left Inside Front Forearm (no return edge): Left Inside Back Forearm (small return edge): Left Outside Back Forearm (small return edge): Left Outside Front Forearm (no return edge): And here is me as Dark Helmet:

When I was test fitting all my components I had to hollow out some of the inside of the barrel for the speaker to fit. I plan on gluing it to the end cap. It's going to be tough once all the wires are in there.

While I wait for my armor I have been building my DoopyDoo's full resin blaster. I wanted to add lights/sound to it and I am somewhat familiar with programming the arduino. After drawing a ton of ideas from Skyone's post (http://www.whitearmo...er-effects-wip/) I ordered all my parts and started to get to work. I used alot of the same parts he did. --------------- I'm not planning on doing an ammo counter at this time. I may later on though I'm not sure. The biggest challenge on this so far has been the size of the barrel on the full resin kit. A pipe build would have been wayyy easier. I'm still early on in the prototyping phase and thought I would show my progress so far. Sounds: 1. Blaster 2. Stun 3. Jango Pistol 4. Boba Fett Flamethrower 5. ATST 6. Tie Fighter Thanks again to Skyone for his help on this so far. Here is my code so far: I used the library provided by this post (http://arduino.cc/fo...?topic=117009.0) //MAKE SURE TO USE PULL DOWN RESISTORS FOR SWITCH AND SELECTOR BUTTON //LED'S NEED AT LEAST 9V //PIN MAP: //RED LED = pin 9 //BLUE LED = pin 10 //GREEN LED = pin 11 //SELECTOR BTN = pin 6 //TRIGGER = pin 7 //RESET = PIN 2 //CLOCK = PIN 3 //DATA = PIN 4 //BUSY = PIN 5 #include <Wtv020sd16p.h> int resetPin = 2; // The pin number of the reset pin. int clockPin = 3; // The pin number of the clock pin. int dataPin = 4; // The pin number of the data pin. int busyPin = 5; // The pin number of the busy pin. const int buttonPin = 6; // the pin that the SELECTOR pushbutton is attached to const int RedLedPin = 9; // the pin that the RED LED is attached to const int BlueLedPin = 10; // the pin that the BLUE LED is attached to const int GreenLedPin = 11; // the pin that the GREEN LED is attached to const int triggerPin = 7; // the pin that the TRIGGER is attached to // Variables will change: int buttonPushCounter = 1; // counter for the number of SELECTOR button presses int buttonState = 0; // current state of the SELECTOR button int lastButtonState = 0; // previous state of the button int triggerState = 0; // current state of the Trigger int lastTriggerState = 0; // previous state of the Triger long time = 0; // the last time the output pin was toggled long debounce = 200; // the debounce time, increase if the output flickers Wtv020sd16p wtv020sd16p(resetPin,clockPin,dataPin,busyPin); void setup() { //Initializes the module. wtv020sd16p.reset(); // initialize the SELECTOR and Trigger button pins as a inputs: pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); pinMode(triggerPin, INPUT); // initialize the Barrel LED's as an outputs: pinMode(RedLedPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(BlueLedPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(GreenLedPin, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); //Start serial interface (for debugging) wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(9); } void loop() { // read the pushbutton input pin: buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); triggerState = digitalRead(triggerPin); // compare the buttonState to its previous state if (buttonState != lastButtonState && millis() - time > debounce) { // if the state has changed, increment the counter if (buttonState == HIGH) { // if the current state is HIGH then the button // went from off to on: time = millis(); Serial.println("Selector Button Pushed"); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(8); if (buttonPushCounter < 6) { buttonPushCounter++; Serial.print("Selector Button State: "); Serial.println(buttonPushCounter); } else buttonPushCounter = 1; } else { } } // compare the triggerState to its previous state if (triggerState != lastTriggerState) { // if the state has changed, do something if (triggerState == HIGH) { Serial.println("Trigger Pushed"); Serial.print("Selector Button State: "); Serial.println(buttonPushCounter); SelectorPosition(); } else { } } // save the current state as the last state, //for next time through the loop lastButtonState = buttonState; lastTriggerState = triggerState; } void SelectorPosition(){ switch (buttonPushCounter) { case 1: //BLASTER - RED digitalWrite(RedLedPin, HIGH); //Turns on Red LED Serial.println("BLASTER FIRE SOUND IS PLAYED"); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(0); delay(780); wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); digitalWrite(RedLedPin, LOW); //Turns off Red LED break; case 2: //STUN - BLUE digitalWrite(BlueLedPin, HIGH); //Turns on Blue LED Serial.println("BLASTER STUN SOUND IS PLAYED"); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(1); delay(1000); wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); digitalWrite(BlueLedPin, LOW); //Turns off Blue LED break; case 3: //JANGO - PURPLE analogWrite(RedLedPin,153); analogWrite(BlueLedPin,102); analogWrite(GreenLedPin,0); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(2); delay(1000); // wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); analogWrite(RedLedPin,0); analogWrite(BlueLedPin,0); analogWrite(GreenLedPin,0); break; case 4: //FLAME - ORANGE analogWrite(RedLedPin,255); analogWrite(BlueLedPin,0); analogWrite(GreenLedPin,102); Serial.println("Fourth Buttton Push"); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(3); delay(3200); analogWrite(RedLedPin,0); analogWrite(BlueLedPin,0); analogWrite(GreenLedPin,0); wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); break; case 5: //AT-AT - RED Serial.println("Fifth Buttton Push"); digitalWrite(RedLedPin, HIGH); //Turns on Blue LED wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(4); delay(780); wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); digitalWrite(RedLedPin, LOW); //Turns off Blue LED break; case 6: //TIE FIGHTER - GREEN digitalWrite(GreenLedPin, HIGH); //Turns on Green LED Serial.println("Sixth Buttton Push"); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(5); delay(900); wtv020sd16p.stopVoice(); digitalWrite(GreenLedPin, LOW); //Turns off Green LED break; } }

I've searched around and I can't find a good "how to" for weathering your E-11. Do you sand through your paint to get to the brass/silver underside?

Kyro, Did you prime it with anything?

I did. Thanks for posting it. Now I'm torn between Kyrlon black primer or Plasti-Dip.

Karin I swear I tried to search for this for like 20 minutes. I haven't got the hang of this sites search engine.

I know some people swear by this and some think it's stupid but I want to paint the inside of my helmet. What should I use to do so? Black spray paint? Flat black? I guess I should mask off the outside pretty good to prevent overspray.

I have a pretty cool setup on my breadboard. If I put a magnet about .5 inches away from reed switch A, The Imperial March plays. If I put it over reed switch B, it plays the 501st loop. If I put it over reed switch C, it stops whatever is being played. I just need my armor so I can go from prototype to functional. As Darth Furious pointed out, you could use this to turn your fans on and off. I'm going to work on this next using a relay.

Update: Mark at AP says my armor is en route to his partner in the US. Really hope my tkboots will be here before Halloween. Started on my duct tape mannequin and it's helped take my mind off of the wait. Doopydoo's full resin should arrive in the next few days so I'll hop on that to keep me busy. Worked on my functional ab buttons project to play songs/effects through my aker amp, all I need is the armor for that to be finished. I found a source for the garter adjusters I need: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150897586012&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

Just got back from Michael's and Hancock fabrics. Got my strapping, elastic, E-6000 (2 tubes), snap pliers (%50 off woot!). I'm trying to make a garter like Pandatrooper's but I can't find the pieces that you hang the V's off the belt from. Anyone know what they are called so I can get some online?

I'm a noob but I have some advice. When I started out I was like "Oh, all I need is to order some armor." Not the case. The tools, crafting materials, accessories, weapon add up FAST. I know you're more talking about the bulk of the cost being the armor but I would take this into consideration. Gradually buy the tools, crafting supplies, undersuit, boots, weapon, helmet, belt, neck seal, holster, gloves, etc then that will leave you with the just the armor.

I have a few questions that I can't find the answer to by searching: Do the shins/greaves attach to anything? Do they just sit on the boot? How much should the chest overlap the ab plate? It varies from all the pics I'm looking at. I'm reading in some posts that the shins are glued in front and back and then I'm reading that the shins are glued in the front and velcro'd in the back? What's the consensus?

Change of plans, I want to be a Centurion eventually so I'm not going to go the Hasbro route. After weighing the price difference on a full resin vs a diy barrel + doopy's addon it's like a 12 buck difference so I think I may just go full resin.

Are 'Line 24' snaps Centurion approved for the two male snaps on the butt plate? Also, I've been looking at a lot of belts and some of the drop boxes dangle down and some are flush with the belt. Is this a preference thing? - The visible portion strap is very short, about 1/4" to 1/2" in length.

But don't you miss the PEW PEW?