dirtydink

I'm sorry..... That is what I get for skimming the post. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=22748

Please add me for 501st access. Tk-57130 Tye Gehring Midsouth Garrison Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I work for a school system. As you know, school starts soon (tomorrow for us). Being in the IT Dept. we have been crazy busy. draggonhammer, I saw your message on facebook but was way tired, thought my response my have been really out there. I plan on hitting you up though, I would love to see how yours is coming along. Hopefully in the near future I will get some time to update this.

Yeah, I want to just make a mold to vacuum form with. Not making the actual chest piece... just the mold.

Just some updates. The armor that it is compared to is an FX recast, it has already had some cutting done. For instance, the neck has been cut lower to allow movement. The sides on my mold seem a bit longer. In the comparable pictures my piece looks like it was made for someone 100lbs. I have since spread it out and am in the process of fiberglassing it in place.

I will check it out. I used Dung0beetles because I saw many comments about how great the scaling was. I was want to brace the mold so the curves are close before I add a second and maybe even a 3rd coat of fiberglass. I want these molds to be as correct as possible, and also last a while. I am super excited though, so far it's looking good.

I am just looking for something to give a reference on the curve. Not so much the size, but if there is a tape measure showing, I can photoshop the curve a bit better, make that piece out of cardboard, then fiberglass.

Anyone? Please?

Okay, i have this baby fiberglassed. Now what I need to do is see some certain proportions. What I need: The Chest Plate facing up. Lay down on a table or whatever. With pictures, a tape measure measuring the bottom from point to point. I need pictures directly from the bottom of the piece, where the "holes" for the shoulders are, and where the "neck hole" would be. This will help me determine the curve of the chest plate. If anyone has a link they could share with reference? Or, maybe some pictures helping me out. This would be very greatly appreciated. Most of the reference pictures I have found show the plate on the Storm Troopers themselves. Since I am making these molds, I want to make sure the curve is very correct. Thanks in advance.

Not as awesome as your avatar.

touche.. I guess I was just thinking along the lines of keeping it once piece as the finished product. Was trying to keep any lines down that wouldn't normally be there

Cross my fingers, but so far everything fits really well. Once I get the back plate fiberglassed (tonight) I may cut the round piece out and the boxes out. Make my own out of something perfectly round and square. then fiberglass them into place. Seems like it will be a tough spot to get those looking good otherwise. Any ideas?

Yeah it did, I went ahead and started fiberglassing the chest last night with the mat. Much more stiff now. When I get the fiberglass work done I will update my progress. Hopefully tomorrow there will be picks up? Thanks for the response walt.

I have a question about the fiberglass resin. Hopefully someone has experience with this can help. If I add coats of fiberglass resin to the front of my chest and back, will it get completely hard? Or will I have to add the cloth fiber to do so? I plan on applying bondo and then sanding smooth, then primer, then bondo, rinse and repeat until I see desired results. Any input would be appreciated.

I look funny because I am tired. It will be okay, no drugs in my system.

It was raining all day yesterday, so while waiting on the chest piece to dry I started on the backplate. Here are some pics.

Here is my progress. The only thing I have done here is applied fiberglass resin. This is the second coat, I think I am going to put 4 coats on the front and 3 on the back. Once I finish this, I will make braces for the back to assure that it keeps it's shape.

I am not planning on fiberglass armor. I am making this pepakura into molds, For vacuum forming with ABS? I haven't chose plastic just yet. I believe i will be buying the helmet. So, what you see will strictly be a mold, and not the actually armor itself.

I know there are some cheaper kits out there. I live way out from any 501st members, so getting my eyes on a kit that I would be willing to buy is almost unreasonable. I do however want to make several kits from these molds. For instance I want a white carbon fiber suit (I thought that would look pretty epic). My uncle owns a sign shop, so I can get the plastic practically free. I am also an IT Specialist for a school system. The art teacher there is a huge costuming fan and has all the vacuum forming equipment. So I can't see having a lot of cost in this. Plus, my wife would love to see me have a different hobby than World of Warcraft or League of Legends. We are huge Disney fanatics so I would have to drop a large sum of money on a set of armor, when I could use that one large sum toward taking our 6 year old to Walt Disney World. I am a pretty hardcore perfectionist so I want it to fit right. So far this chest piece fits really well. I know buying a kit would be easier, but I really feel spending some money little by little, and putting some effort toward this would make me a bit more proud of it. I would love to hear from the sculpting guys/gals if they take a look when I get to that point. I appreciate all of the positive comments. Expect progress.

Edited below:

Hello everyone, I am new here. Have read quiet a few topics but never created one. I am aspiring to be in the 501st but, I lack the fund to spend a grand on an armor set. So, I have decided to make my own molds. I thought this might be a good time to share my progress and also show how I decided to go about certain things. Since I have just started my project this will make it easier for me to update this post. I hope my armor turns out great, and it will get me into the 501st, as I would love to do charity work. I think was the 501st people do is fantastic. Cost as of this moment: 50.00$ Time: 13 hours So, now that you know why I am here. I will start off by showing my progress and then explaining how I got to this point. I initially wanted to sculpt the armor out of clay/plasticine. It didn't take long for me to rethink that. Instead, you are looking at my pepakura chest piece. I went to college for Autobody, Custom Paints, and Metal Fabrication. This is a bit different, but the plan is to cover the chest in fiberglass resin, and then use body filler to get it where it needs to be. This pepakura model came from Dung0Beetle. I can not take credit for his work on the model. However, I can take credit on what you are looking at. This is my first pepakura project, and I haven't watched any videos pertaining to making this easier. I found what I started using to begin with worked for me. I have heard of people using hot glue to put this together. I thought that it would be to messy though. With the stringy glue and the fact that superglue seems kind of thick it wouldn't let the paper bond together closely. So I tried some regular super glue. That didn't work on paper, no stick. I went back to Walmart and purchased this. I was pleased with the results. But the next problem was trying to hold the paper with my fingers and glue it at the same time. I wanted some alligator clips but could not find any in the small town. So, I settled for these. http://www.dcv.gov.bc.ca/Content/images/products/m/7510362023.jpg I am a picture person, so I figure this adding some shots of these products would be easier than explaining. My process consisted of clamping the paper together. Then, where the fold met the secondary piece of paper I would put a dot of super glue. I would then move down each flap/fold that connected one to the other with a dot of glue. This stuff dries in about 5-10 seconds. Once I had a dot on each flap/fold. I would remove the clamps, and then put a line of super glue down the entire fold. The bottle of super glue in the picture is great. The green sides are what you squeeze to let the glue out. Giving great control of the flow. It took very little glue to ensure a good bond. Just make sure you have both of the pieces of card stock pressed firmly together so there are no wrinkles in the paper. This is my progress as of yet. I will keep you updated. I am going to put fiberglass resin on tomorrow and will at picks when finished.