dm101
-
Posts
138 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by dm101
-
-
I placed an order for one, fingers and toes crossed that the wait is a short one
-
Craig,
I'm sorry for the delay but I'm back at it again....
Your build looks good but needs a few minor tweaks before I can approve it...
- I think you should reduce forearm gap with elastic but I'll allow it. Most of the time when we troop our arms are bent. Here's a photo from the lucasfilm archives showing the forearm/bicep elastic:
- Add a solid head rivet to the thigh pack on each side
- Align the sniper knee along with the angle of the top of the shin. I hear tell that the AP shin is notoriously annoying.
- Replace the fasteners holding your holster on with unpainted pop rivets or chicago screws turned around so that the screw head is on the inside and the tube with the hole in it is in the outside
- Photo of the outside of the butt and cod crotch (I love this hobby... I get to type "crotch" fairly often without irony)
- Photo of the return edge of the wrist side of the forearm
- Photo of the spring in your blaster
- Reduce the back/kidney gap by either lengthening your shoulder elastic and shortening the back/kidney elastic or somehow slide your butt/kidney/ab up. I think the latter would look better.
The one thing I'm undecided on is about the rivets on your ab and kidney. I need to confer with the staff but I think we generally ask applicants to put the rivets on the shim itself rather than have a wide gap between the rivets. They rivets should also line up. Please stand by on this point.
A seam is fine on the side shims but more hidden is better if possible.
Thanks for your patience,
-Eric
Eric-
No problem, and thanks for the feedback.
Good timing because I had some free time (first time in weeks) to take some additional photos.
1. Photo of butt to cod/crotch connection-
*
*
2. Photo of wrist forearm return (as in lack there of)
(also see the foam which I currently use to keep forearms in place)
*
*
3. Photo of ab and kidney plates-
*
I think I messed this up by not placing the rivets on the shim as shown in the screen capture below. (found this screen capture after the build was done
)I think I would need to remove the rivets from the kidney plate????
*
*
*
*
*
*
4. Photo of greaves, left and right-
The AP armor greaves are wonky. The plastics natural set (form) was to fall in the direction shown. Which left or right (if any) are correct. I think I can fix either one.
*
*
5. Blaster spring-
(do you want to see the spring out of my Doppys blaster?
I will work on the other comments as my time permits. May be several weeks. Still mad at myself for forgetting the knee pack rivets....argghhhh.
Regarding the AP armor sniper knee is a major pain in the rear to align. Majorly wonky. It took us a good 45 minutes of fighting to get it to this state.
-
I hope i won't sound to rough but i think there are many things to fix in order to be approved:
- Your elbow gap needs to be reduced.
If you add strapping between your forearms and your biceps it will solve the problem and also prevent your forearms from twisting too much outwards.
- Also, the gap between your kydney and back plate looks too wide. I think if you lower your back plate by lengthening your shoulder straps and also shorthening the strapping between the back and the kydney plate it should close the gap.
- Your ammo knee belt is rightly set but the rivets going through the upper corners are missing. i think you'll need to add them, even if they aren't functionnal. Just don't use pop rivets for that.
- Your left shin seems to close the wrong side. The inner half covers the outer half whereas it should be the opposite. However i read here from Gino, about the eFX armor, that the original Hero armor they had was assembled this way, so maybe Hero builds will be allowed to close them like that.
- Are your thighs overlapped in the back? Because the overlapping technique has been forbidden for Centurion. However as it's just been announced today so perhaps the DO will make an exception for you
- Are the inner drop boxes complete? Because flat covers are no longer allowed. Once again it's just been announced today so perhaps the DO will make an exception for you.- Your side rivets aren't really evenly spaced along the side nor facing each other.
- Your side shims might need some camouflage too to be less noticeable.
- Your biceps look really wide on you. Would be a good thing to resize them a bit.
And you need to post a pic of the crotch rivet and forearms wrist return edges.
Nothing impossible to fix so keep it up! Good luck !!
No problem. THANKS for the feed back.
I have been putting off this submission for almost a year. Needed to redo my side shims and a few other tweaks. Plus waited forever for TK boots to deliver.
It's always great to have another set of eyes look things over.
A couple of things (like the knee rivet) I completely dropped the ball on that. I am Such an idiot. I was just proud that I got the bloody thing to stay in place with glue.
Regarding forearms- I have never seen anyone add a strap from the forearm to the bicep. I took out my foam padding inside the right forearm for some dumb reason that day. I think my forearms are at the correct position. (except for the right one which slipped down) They start at the wrist bone. Yes my forearms do not have a return.
Not 100% sure what you mean by camouflaging my side shims.
-
-
I used Loctite brand Super Glue Gel to put my Doopy's together.
PROS-
1. It is not runny like water.
2. You have a few seconds to move your parts around before it sets.
3. A year plus later I have had zero parts fall off.
4. It does not take long to cure.
CONS-
1. You can stick your fingers together just like Super Glue
2. A bit $$$$
3. I am sure there are more...
-
This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.
-
As I always say "A picture is worth a thousand words"
-
OK sorry for the long delay.
This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.
-
Hello all. I figured it was about time I get it in gear and and get set up here. I've been putting away cash to get my kit and get started.
Just out of curiosity, is there any other 40+ year old troopers here or am I the old man here?
Don- Welcome to the FISD and to Carida and the 501st. Yep I am 40+.
-
OK - so the three photos I picked of Han, Luke and Leia all use the M19 scope. I thought as much, but wanted to check.
Dradts !!!
.
So back to my original question/statement.
The doopy's comes with the M38 scope (see massive close up shot below).
Would the M38 rear scope foot align with the folding stock hinge?
-
the rail is 3/4" wide and the rear foot on an m38 aligns with the folding stock hinge.
for an m19 scope the rear foot is aligned just a 1/4" farther back than the hinge.
han is holding an m38 scope version while luke and leia have the m19
Thanks
OH so the scope that comes with a Doopy's is an M38
-
OK you experts. I am attempting to come up with a scope mounting location for the Doopy’s resin kit. I figured my location by using the three photos of Han, Luke and Leia holding their blasters. I know how wide the rear sight is. I measure it at 1-1/32†wide. So it looks to me like the end of the scope is three rear sights up the gun (see the Leia image). I looked around the FISD forum and was only able to find a reference at this thread-
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14817-advanced-anh-weaponry-e-11-blaster/
-
MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-
MOUNTING FOLDING STOCK (optional)
I was a bit paranoid at just gluing the folding stock to the main barrel. My resin stock was a bit warped and did not sit square, without some major torque/twisting. I decided to screw the folding stock to the main barrel.
Step #1- Drill hole completely thru the folding stock. Hole diameter should be clearance hole for your screw threads to pass thru.
Step #2- Drill another hole in first hole. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc…
Step #3- (YOU WILL DO THIS STEP TWO TIMES, or ON BOTH SIDES) Drill pilot hole in the round part of the main barrel. (This is the pivot point for the folding stock) ((if your stock was able to fold)) Drill small hole for threads to pass thru in folding stock. Drill another hole on top of the first hole in folding stock. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc…
Step #4- Align your folding stock holes to the pilot holes in main barrel. Insert your mounting screws.
Step #5- I used JB Weld Steel - Stick Putty to fill in the holes. I also used this to build up the two pivot points or what I am calling buttons.
Step #6- Sand, Paint and FINISH
-
PLEASE add me to the wish list and make it fot TWO sets.
Any guess at the ETA?
-
-
anodized green bolt?
the color green.
there are many people who don't have green bolts.
otherwise you've done pretty well close to how I trim out my charging handles.
YEP it is green.
My photo shows the color pretty accurately.
Don't forget- This is one bolt out of a thousands.
I have also seen the color to be dark gray to a black color, and a brown color.
Any of these color combos woul be good.
I have not seen any bright chrome colored bolts. (chrome as in the color of a cars bumper circa 1970's model car)
-
OK the object of this post is to clear up my earlier error.
The goal is to have the Doopy’s bolt (or lack of) look more like a Sterling’s sub-machine gun bolt.
Here is a image of my de-milled Sterling.
MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-
BOLT -----UPDATED---- January 04, 2013
My bolt is made from:
1- A wood dowel (could also use a plastic tube or pipe- if you can find the right diameter)
2- A sheet of .25†thick clear plastic (you can also use colored plastic or wood)
3- A #6 wood screw
Step #1- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE and drill a clearance hole for the wood screw to slip into. Sand CHARGING HANDLE flat on two sides. Finished thickness of flats to equal less than width of Doopy’s charging handle slide slot.
Step #2- WOODEN BOLT- Measure the inside diameter of your gun at the butt end (with End Cap removed) I subtracted about 1/16†from that diameter to give some clearance. I used a belt sander to sand down the outside diameter of my wooden dowel. After a few test fits I made sure it would fit easily inside the gun. I measured up from one end 1.72†and drilled a hole for a #6 screw. The 1.72†is was measured off the de-milled Sterling bolt I have. The overall length of the wood bolt can be more or less than the 2.69†that I show.
BOLT THICKNESS EXTENDER- I used a piece of clear .25†thick plastic. You could use wood etc… I made my part 2.00†long. I made the width a bit smaller than the bolt slide slot. I wanted the bolt thickness extender to fit in snug but not be to tight as to not move freely. Measure up 1.72†and drill clearance hole for #6 screw. Take modified charging handle, screw and bolt thickness extender. Test fit together. Mark bolt thickness extender at edge of charging handle. Sand or cut down thickness so that charging handle is flush with top surface of bolt thickness extender.
#6 WOOD SCREW- Cut off screw head. I used a Dremil cut off bit. I ground in a slot for a straight screw driver. I use this slot to insert the screw.
Step #3- Slide wooden bolt into gun.
Step #4- Add bolt thickness extender, and apply glue between wooden bolt and bolt thickness extender. Insert #6 screw.
Step #5- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE, apply glue, slip over #6 screw. MAKE SURE your charging handle orientation is correct.
Step #6- Insert Spring, push bolt forward
Step #7- Painting. I choose to paint the bolt the anodized green color from my original Sterling.
IMAGE SHOWING de-milled Sterling
-
I am going to order a doopy resin kit very soon. Thanks for making this.
It's a fun kit to build. Once you figure out where all the parts go.
YES i am working on a set of directions you can down load as a PDF. Stay tuned
-
WAY TO GO TROOPERS!! COME ON 300
I am still using my Mayan calendar...so the end of the year is... well let me see... 4 lizards plus 6 suns minus 2-1/2 moons carry 1 serpent...yeah by my calculations the end of the year is lizards away from happening
-
SORRY I fell off the face of the planet.
Yes I PROMISE I will have an update the first week of the new year.
I was holding off to see if we were going to be around after December 21st.
Stupid Mayan's, no wonder they are extinct. -
Craig Staley 6794 EIB Letter
-
Why not use the nomex under the rubber.
I use cotton gloves under the rubber gloves and it works fine.
Saludos
YEAH - What he said.
I use cotton liners under my rubber gloves.
No problems. And I sweat like a pig
I tried what you suggested, Velcro to the latex hand guards. IMHO it made them look odd.
-
I found rubber gloves at a Dollar Tree store in Pennsylvania. And they only cost a dollar.
Or you could buy the rubber gloves with the rubber hand guards glued on from Shonnenshein (look in the For Sale thread) (( they are the BEST IMHO ))
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/9515-flexible-anh-white-rubber-hand-guards/
Or you could buy military surplus chemical gloves from these guys (if you have small to medium size hands) http://store.colemans.com/cart/rubber-gloves-chemical-protective-10-pair-size-small-p-1630.html
-
Hey Tim,
I am also in Carida. I'm in Pittsburgh. Where do you live? Who is your adviser? There is lots of great people on this site that will help you. Before you ask your adviser, check and ask questions here as well. They are updating the CRL's from what I hear. So definately post your progress, we are great at Carida academy, but the experts are here.
HEY Tim-
Like Radu said... I am also in Garrison Carida. I live in York, PA you need help or advise we are ALL here to help.
WELCOME to FISD
Z-6 Riot Control Baton options?
in Weapons of the First Order
Posted
Any news on this? Looking for a baton. Hope Peter delivers for those who have not gotten theirs