Darth Voorhees

i was just wondering if it would work to replace the FX thighs with say, AP ones or the likes? I cant really afford to get a replacement set of armor for more accuracy, but i thought maybe i could upgrade certain parts a little at a time. I know it would probably cost more in the end, but it would be easier to do that for me than to manage to drop another 700-800 bucks on an entire AP set. I was thinking the thighs and shoulder bells, possibly the biceps for the first parts to change out. Just wondering if it will work. Not that im doing it immediately, but it was def something i thought about. Id like to eventually have a full AP set, but we'll see how that goes lol. Also i seem to be having a problem keeping the shoulder bells straight, like i mean, they seem to lean more towards the back and i have a larger than id like gap between the chest and shoulder bells. Has anyone ever put elastic from the chest to the bells,not like really tight, but just to keep them in place? Is this a bad idea? lol Or if anyone has a suggestion, that would be cool too. Delema #2 is the "skirt" of my neck seal just loves to pop out of the back of my undersuit...any thoughts on how to stop that sucker from doin that? I will probably upgrade to that underarmor that has the neckseal built in eventually, but what to do till then? thanks in advance for any help and info you guys n gals can give!!

haha thanks Lizz! its about time huh? lol Im already in contact with my garrison, so this weekend one of my freinds said she'd take the pics for me for my submission to the 501st, and im on my way....weeeeeeeee! lol heres a couple i took with the camera timer that didnt come out blurry lol.

Thanks everyone for the kind words, and thanks Daetrin, i welcome the comments. im also planning on trimming the bottom of the chest plate on the sides to make it a bit more accurate, and using that tutorial on here to get the retun edge back. ALSO...good news! the boots camne today, so i may do another video, since everyone seems to dig the idea. Im going to take official pics for the 501st this weekend. then i go for elite ANH

heh thanks! i guess it was kind of a happy accident wasnt it? I look drunk with all the spinning and then just standing there, lol, but it got my point across heh. the sound system was only 50 bucks from triktoys. Altho the speakers were and aditional 50, which i got from our very own Stomper it still needs a bit of tweaking but its pretty good. The static burst was just me blowing into the mic. its good cuz i can do it only when i want, rather than it happening every time i say anything lol.

thanks Smitty!...now if those damn boots would get here already! aarrg!

I suited up and tried to take pics, but they came out blurred so i figured id do a lil video from my camera. Its kinda silly but you should be able to see the armor all around and hear the sound system. I didnt have the volume all the way up cuz i get feedback sometimes, although i can make it a bit louder than i had it. Im also having problems getting my neckseal to stay in the back of my suit. When i lift my arms to put on my bucket, the "skirt" of the neck seal comes out of the undersuit in the back. ugh..anyone know any tips to avoid that? Also i think one of my shins was open on the top, because i didnt put them on when i normally do and didnt feel like undoing the belt and ab/kidney plates again. The sound system is from triktoys, it was just an amp board and a mic. I frankenstiened it a bit to get it all in the helmet, which was no easy take for an AP bucket haha. It doesnt have a static burst, but by blowing into the mic you can get the sound you hear. Im going for ANH elite status eventually...so what do you guys think so far? the ab buttons are the correct size and colors, i have a canvas belt, and the butt/kidney plates are seperate. The holster i made myself with some spare leather i had layin around. It is attached with snaps on the underside of the belt, on the left. The lenses are a dark green welding visor cut to fit. All im waiting for is my boots! arrgh! Anyway,enjoy me being a total geek for about 1 minute lol ....oh and dont mind the mess STORMTROOPER TEST #1

hahahahaha i almost choked on my food lol

Ive been spray painting stuff for years, bmx bikes mostly but ive done a foar share of vader helmets also. i think what you speak of is polishing compound. Its basically a wax like stuff that comes in a can/tin, like auto wax. it has a small amount of "grit" in it. It basically removes very minor amounts of the color, so in essence you are super duper fine sanding the surface. This stuf has to be applied when the paint is COMPLETELY cured, or you will botch up the whole thing good. PATENCE is something you HAVE TO have when doing this stuff. My methods in a nutshell are, i will prime, then put on 3 layers of color, let it completely cure for at least 24hrs(even the paint that says "fully dry in 15minues"), then i will wet sand the item with 400grit sand paper. and then with 700-1000 grit. you should get the surface super smooth doing this. then i check to make sure i didnt sand through to the primer anywhere. If i did, i will add another 2-3 coats and repeat the process. If it looks good, i then apply 2-3 coats of clear gloss, and do the same thing, let it dry 24hrs, then wetsand with 600grit and then again with 1000 grit. if it looks good after that i will put on one final coat of clear, about 6 inches away for the item and using not-to-fast strokes going past the item before changing direction. then i let it dry 24hrs again. You should have a nice super smooth shiney surface with no orange peel effect after that which you can then buff up with some automotive polish/wax. If you have a couple of grainy spots, you can use the polishing compound to smooth them over and then polish/wax the entire item. you can get the polishing compound at any automotive store like pepboys or autozone or the likes. The one i have is made by turtle wax, but im sure there are other, like 3M and such that make a similar product. If you could find an autobody supply shop, even better. hope this helped

haha ok, i knew thats where it came from, i just thought we also knew what it meant lol...well i feel better now lol thanks Terrell!

i tried to search for the answer for this to avoid my embarassing question, but to no avail....so here it is: What does "TK" actually stand for?

awesome! thanks guys! i like those tandy ones...i think i will go for those! thanks again guys, your always a big help!

What do you guys use, and where did you get them? I was at the ol Home Depot and couldnt find anything even remotely like a "clip" to attach my 02 tank to my canvas belt. I was thinking about riveting it onto the belt, but that would make storage annoying. i was basicallythinking something similar to a money clip but slightly larger?...oy, any help would be great....im ordering my boots this weekend and then im done!...after figuring out this delema thanks everyone!

thanks!

Thanks Amish Trooper! no problem! Its the least i could do for all your help with the erm...adjustingof my armor i had to do! Bondo can be VERY helpful for alot of things!! haha Thanks Murray, that was my plan, to make it almost indistiguishable from an actual hasbro. I guess i did good! thanks again everyone for the kind words! On a side note, i should be sending photos to the 501st very soon, and will then apply for Elite status here!

ok, well, i had a little snag in the mod, but it all worked out in the end. The plan was to drill just the end holes where the t-track would go into. I wasnt going to bother with the rest as they would be covered. But i also needed to drill out the row of exposed holes for the ANH version of the blaster i was doing. well... I now know you cant drill through the plastic of this blaster with an actual drill, a dremel would have been better. it kinda got caught up in the plastic and cracked it up a bunch. SO, i basically filled in the holesi drilled out with the good ol bondo. Then i re-drilled out the new row of holes into the bondo in the barrel using the messed up holes as a sort of guide. i just added stompers T-track where they should go, without the use of holes, not as accurate as i would have liked but all in all it came out pretty good. The row of holes is a bit wonky, but hey, its still much better than the original hasbro!

thanks everyone for the kind words! Sandman, thanks, ya know i was thinking about how to do this befgore the resin kit arrived. Ive used bondo for other things before and it held up great, so i figured this would work. My original thought was to add a piece of pvc pipeand bondo over it to smooth it out, but i figured since i wasnt adding like 4" lol, that the bondo alone would work well, plus i had it on hand already Later tonight ill be adding the t-track. I think im just going to drill the holes where the t-track should go into, as the rest would be covered anyway. Also i noticed from reference pics there should be one row of exposed holes with no t-track on the left side on the bottom near the folding stock. So i will be drilling those holes. Keep in mind i never really intended to keep the light thing, i just wanted to try and keep the sounds. stay tuned kids!

Ok, now its time to add the folding stock piece of the resin kit. This piece will have to be extended to fit the now extended barrel of the blaster. So i first attach it to the barrel, lining up where the front of it should be. [[*NOTE- i cut off the tab at the bottom of the barrel so i can freely move the resin piece where i wanted. You could also cut a groove into the resin piece if you want, but i found it easier to just remove that tab on the bottom of the barrel]] I then marked off where the other part of the folding stock ends to give me an idea where to bondo up to. Then we glob on the bondo! i let it harden up just a little first so it wasnt running all over the place. It takes a little working with, i used a jumbo popsicle stick to apply the bondo, and just kept pushing it back up the sides to keep its shape the best i could get it, the bondo hardens quickly, so its not that much of an annoyance haha. So now we have this: I then did the same as i did with the barrel and carved it to shape Then i repeated the process to fix any imperfections, and sanded it with 80 grit paper to get it to this: than i proceeded to add on the rest of the resin kit, and re-attached that aiming guide at the end of the barrel: I then filled in any imperfections with the bondo spot filler, and primed it grey Next post will be the finishing pf the paint and adding Stompers T-track!

Now while bondo is hardening it gets ot a point where it is still soft but will maintain its shape. Its VERY carveablw with an x-acto/hobby knife, or large box cutter type tool. So what i did was carve a basic round shape out of the bondo beforte it completly hardens, like this: then i repeat the process, trying a bit more to get the shape i want and here is is after the second "carve" I then sanded it with 80 grit sandpaperon a sanding block, to get to this: I then shortened it to a good length to fit Stompers T-track using the holes already in the barrel as a guide

hello all...i recently got my resin mod kit for my hasbro blaster, and my T-track from Stomper and thought id share with you all my mod of the Hasbro Blaster. I decided to go a bit futher with my mod as i just like to do this kind of stuff. This is my first blaster mod and im happy with the result thus far. Basically my plan was to remove all the stock molded on t-track, and add about an inch and a half to the length of the barrel. Then i would add Stompers t-track. So heres how i went about it... we started with this: this is my blaster, completely stock, my resin mod kit i got off e-bay, and my dremel. You should also have some automotive body putty. I have standard bondo auto filler that i am using. Not the spot filler, although i will use that also later on. So the first thing i did was, with the cutting wheel on my dremel, remove the , well i dont even know what its called lol, ill call it the aiming guide by the nose of the blaster here it is removed. Then with the cutting wheel, i proceeded to remove all the molded on t-track, by first cutting off the vertical "fin" on each and then smoothing it out with the cutting wheel. then i further smoothed it out with the grinding tip. make sure while cutting the top fin off the side t-tracks that you do it on an angle so you dont make a big hole in the side! Hold it on this angle: So heres what it looks like with all the t-track removed Then i basically globbed on some bondo on the end on the barrel, and a little bit on the sides to some imperfect spots.

36 here! I remember seeing star wars in the theater in 77. i was 6(going on 7). i dont fully remember this, but my mom said when vader first came out of that smoke, i cried, for about 3 seconds, then she heard a few sniffles, and i was silent the rest of the movie. She said shes never seen a 6 yr old so quiet and focused in a move theater hehe. Ive always wanted trooper armour and a vader suit since. Im about 90% done with vader and 97% with my trooper.....this will be a day long remembered....

Yea i tried that, you have to enter your legion approved ID number to register. I even tried dodgin that, but it didnt work lol I have had contact with Mary Alice once, but havent heard from her, or any of the other member since. i thought a forum type atmosphere would be better just to get to know some of the peeps in the ECG. Looks like i may have to wait till im accepted in the 501st to get to know them.

yea it seems alot of them do...i may try and dig harder on that site, maybe im missing something lol

haha interesting stuff....ya learn somethin every day they say

not that i could find <_< it would be nice

haha yea, i know ..lol..but my point was more that the testors paint has that same number.