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Torment

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by Torment

  1. Heat gun those ankle clips to curve in. You're gonna loose one of them with them that flaired out. To put a gloss coat on your suit, try Krylon Laqure spray. I got it at Michaels. It takes about 2 or three coats but puts a nice shine on a flat coat. If you used the rustoleum, don't do that. the two different paints will clash and F up your paint job. Also you gotta remove the knuckle strips of white on the gloves I believe. Looks great so far. just tiny things to go from good to awesome.
  2. I have some leather left over from another project. I have a question about the holster. I have a a template set up for the over all shape and size. All of which I think are spot on. However I can not determine if there are rivets or not on the holster side. The back of the holseter I know is stiched closed. However are there also rivets keeping the sides closed or is it just the stitching. I can sew through a 8 ounce hide no worries, but I would like to do this right versus guessing. I looked for pictures on the internet and here on the gallery, but nothing is conclusive to me as I see both. I also see an option for no stitching and 3 rivets used to close them. Any chance you can point me in the correct direction.
  3. is it possible that is the ring around the body for the mannequin stand?
  4. Fair warning on this. If you plan to chrome the suit, painting your suit now would be counter productive in the long run. The amount of clean up and re painting will be more time consuming then going straight though. Worked on a few 3p0 suits for people and the metal process is a pain.
  5. I use krylon fusion white gloss it goes on smoother than the rustoleum. easier to sand. takes seven days to fully cure though. Its dry in an hour, but it takes time to set.
  6. Honestly the way it sits on the head. When I put mine on, it sat square to my head vs the anovos one that has kinda a down ward tilt look to it exposing the rear of the head more than expected. The size of the helmet feels better too. I also like the way this helmet wont need to be sent back several times for replacement issue. The places you pointed to are the places I would love to see a decal added. Theres not much to mod to me in the long run honestly. I hate the ratchet helmet system with a passion so I wont use that. I've watched Greg build this from the start. When you overlap his helmet with pics its a really good match. Can you nit pick a slight curve here and there im sure, but from what I can see its pretty solid. Now I know its a roto cast helmet and its not a multi part polyurithaine assembly, but for trooping this helmet is lighter weight, and will serve its purpose far better than the fiberglass super helmet. Also for people like me who believe rustolium paint is the devil, its really nice to have a helmet that will match the paint I am gonna use. Again I know people will pick things apart here. But for what it is, I think this is the way to go
  7. The only thing I think Gregs helmet needs at this point are decals. Its been my guess that the black markings on the helmet are decals versus paint. If we could get those for it, I think its perfect. I have one of helmets in hand and already started working on it. I like it much better than that of the Anovos helmet out there now.
  8. Ok crazy thought here. How many TFA people are looking at weathering their armor? I like the all white suit, but I also kinda dig the weathered version. It puts the costume more in line with all of the other suits. Clones were filthy, the TK were always a mess and falling apart. So the shot that we see of dirty TFA is something I am interested in. Just curious what others thoughts are on the idea.
  9. Ill take pics of the final product when I get home. I still have a little clean up to do, but I'm close to being done with the calves.
  10. As an LMO member, let me say this. The approval of the suits are going to be based on the overall look and fit. We are not going to be digging into every single detail to prevent approvals. For instance, yes the ab boxes are supposed to be non seamless. However if you have a seam, this will NOT be a grounds for a no go. Especially for the alpha group. Same will be said for the alphas who have the smaller ankle stickers. The kits are evolving in each group. Ill be in the Bravo/beta group. My suit will be the more updated suits. The Charlie group will probably have a few other differences. Remember for 501st approval its not about being 100 percent dead on accurate. If it was then everyone would have to be Centurion or swat or lancer status just to get in. We look to the most basic levels for approvals. So if you have the Anovos gloves and not the IB gloves you will still be good. I look at the IB gloves as the highest tier. Boots are in debate ATM. I believe Brian wants to allow basic TK boots at this time for lowest level approval. However I think with the IB and crow boots bein available at this time, There are options available now. SO to summate we're not holding people to dead on accurate. Its nice to aim there, but its not gonna be necessary to get in. Just do the best that you can.
  11. My pay pal keeps yelling at me that it has money in it. Please take it from me soon.
  12. What I plan to do here is cut a hole into the cover plate under the det. Then glue it from the inside all around. Then use proflex to fill in the seem areas. If you heavily, but cleanly tape it off, your filler should be limited.
  13. Thanks for posting as you have. Following closely as I have about 2 weeks till mine arrives.
  14. 1 pair size L please. I thought I said I wanted in. boots would be a size 11 please.
  15. Saw a helmet this past weekend. I noticed that the white parts near they eyes were fliared out. Not sure if thats how they are supposed to look or not. If not then, I would say there may be some issues with the helmets in some cases. It seemed like a molding issue from the master when I looked it over, but reading over this thread and others maybe it shouldnt be like that. Ill let him know to look it over and take pics
  16. For a filler I recomend something called pro-flex http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-pro-flex-finishing-putty-26037-p-17649.aspx?kpid=22342&gclid=CjwKEAjwvbGqBRCs3eH4o5C74CYSJAB3TODsdKNsC4X27NSAt79G-M49_JwU6KMV1_w0Ku60rbHmQRoCzF3w_wcB You will find many professional autobodys use this kind of stuff. It self levels and has a flex agent. My clones are upwards of 5 years old with no cracking at all.
  17. There is no room for padding. I am building an NE suit. The left to right is great. But the front to back is not gonna have room for padding. Pics up soon. Just got in from SWW.
  18. Ill try to get some pics up after the weekend. Ill be in Orlando for SWW. The issue really to be clearer is not the knee plate, but my actual knee. I have thick legs. 26 inch thighs and 17 inch calves. I have big knees too. About the size of a door knob. The xrays were kinda funny to look at. My actual knee protrudes a bit more than my shin armor. I thought about heating the armor and streaching it, but Im affraid it will only warp the suit. Im in no rush to be TD just yet LOL. My real issue is I dont have a ton of room front to back in the shin. Sooo, My knee is in the way. The thighs are not an issue at all. When I test fitted the knee plate, placing it correctly, it digs into my actual knee. Again the thighs are not an issue, this is body issue. The first thing I am going to do is cut some from the bottom loweing the shin a bit more under the knee. But I wanted to check if I cut from the top too behind where the knee plate will be if thats ok too. Ideally I just want to give my knee room enough to move and the knee plate to sit in the right place. again Ill try to get pictures up soon so I could explain it better visually
  19. I am building up my new TK. Only took me 8 years... I am running into an issue with my new calves. I have assembled them to fit as they should. They close up fine. But when looking to add the sniper plate to the left knee, The plate either digs into my knee cap or I will have to sit it down really far making it over all look bad. I think the best option for me is to do a knee scoop on the top of the shin. Basically I am thinking about removing plastic from the top of the shin and cover it with the sniper plate. Is this something that is acceptable or is there another option that I am not aware of?
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