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Spectre

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Everything posted by Spectre

  1. Got the t-track on.
  2. To link photos you need to get a Photobucket or Flickr account, then upload the photos to it. Once you have done that, click the Image button (Figure 1), then copy the URL from Photobucket/Flickr (Figure 2) and paste it into the box shown in figure 3. You will then need to remove part of the URL, as it stops it from being posted as an image. You ned to remove the part that says ?action=view&current= (Figure 4). Figure 1: Figure 2: Figure 3: Figure 4:
  3. Nearly done! I just need to add the scope, end cap, t-track, henglster counter (when I order one :S) and power cylinders and wires. The fore section of the stock didn't quite sit right, and I couldn't move it any further forward because of where I put the handle, but I think it has set good and proper now. I had to sand down the cocking bolt quite a lot, as well as the cocking base. It all fits now though. For the 'spring' I got a length of wire and wrapped it as tightly as I could around a shovel handle, then shoved it into the pipe. I feel that it looks quite good. Resized to 86% (was 960 x 720) - Click image to enlarge
  4. So this is where I am at now. Resized to 86% (was 960 x 720) - Click image to enlarge Resized to 86% (was 960 x 720) - Click image to enlarge
  5. Aaaaaaaaaaaaand I just realised I haven't got a Henglster counter or power cylinders. I think DoopyDoos has them, but the picture is of a Garfield thing Not sure what's with that. You can see what I am talking about HERE. Or is that what I need and they just have a indeed, silly picture on it? Also I'm gonna need power cylinders, so I'll search around the boards to see for what I can do for them.
  6. I've already got flat black for the blaster, but I'll check out the satin black too. Thanks guys!
  7. Yep, will do. So do you put the PVC in the bolt to keep it in place? The breech is the long cut with the circle at the end yeah?
  8. For the teeth on my helmet, what type of grey paint do I need? Do I need the Humbrol #5 medium grey like for the ab buttons? Also is there any specific type of black paint that I need for the vocoder?
  9. Nah it doesn't fit in from the muzzle either. It could be either distorted or too thick internally, the vice might have distorted it on any of the occasions that I had it in there. I'll try sanding it down a tiny bit at a time tomorrow, and see how I go. Yeah I didn't think that was the way to go.
  10. Also sorry for the bad quality photos, all I have is my iPod camera.
  11. So more like that? I think that tomorrow I will start roughing up the pipe with sandpaper/small dents (with the dremel) after I clean it and start attaching some pieces. I do have another question: The ejector port part, the cylinder that goes in the pipe, it won't actually go into y pipe. It goes about 10mm or so in but then gets stuck. Would that be because my pipe has been pushed out of shape? Or should I just get a mallet or something and slam it in? I'm a bit hesitant to do that in case it shattrers the resin, and even if it doesn't how would I get it to the ejector port from the end of the pipe? This is as far in as I can get it without applying a lot of force, but if I make it go in further I cannot pull it back out. Also you can see in the first picture that I sorta botched up the hole at the end of the cocking lever. :/ But oh well, lesson learned for my next build.
  12. Oooooohh, I see! Wow I should really start looking at movie screenshots. Thank you so much for the advice! Yeah I thought so, does it matter that I have drilled it though? I'm using 40mm pipe.
  13. Ahhh damnit, I put this in the ANH builds forum by accident. >.> Can a mod please move this to ANH blasters for me?
  14. So I've actually been doing this build for a few months now, and I decided that maybe I should post a W.I.P thread for my E-11 ANH blaster. A few things before I start though: - I did the majority or the drilling with a pedestal drill. While having to vice and unvice the pipe constantly may have caused a little bit of warping (I haven't noticed any yet) and took a long time to keep doing, I feel that it increased drilling accuracy a lot more. - I am using the DoopyDoos pipe kit, the DoopyDoos M38 Scope replica, and a length of aluminium pipe to do this build. - To be honest, I think that PVC pipe would have been sooooo much easier, it just would have been simpler to cut and drill everything. Anyway, that's for the next blaster I do. - I'm sure I was going to say more but I have forgotten. Before I started doing the pilot holes and using the hole punches I tried blind drilling with the pedestal drill...results were poor Then I made some pilot dents with a hole punch thingy Then I had to do bigger ones Resized to 86% (was 960 x 720) - Click image to enlarge The bigger dents seemed to improve the accuracy of the drilling quite a bit. But then, unfortunately, the drill bit exploded (I pushed down too fast. :/) and I am lucky that I was wearing safery glasses, as it decided to explode in the general direction of my face...but there were no injuries, luckily. The holes seem to be slightly off-centre, although without the templates on it I don't think it will be that noticeable (at least I hope not ) Basically all of the holes drilled. However the one on the end (far left) I do not know the purpose of... why is it there? It doesn't have any special markings or anything other than the measurements...apparently it is for the folding stock to clip onto, but seeing as how I have a DoopyDoos kit..I don't see the point of it I was super-excited when my resin kit arrived. I had to dust the pieces ff though, there was a lot of resin residue on them. Nothing major though. All laid put before dusting and stuff. And the shot with the half-finished pipe. ****This is where I am at now**** I have hit a bit of a snag. The resin parts don't fit properly onto the pipe. The front of the stock sits too high and can't be glued that way at all. Even after drilling out the 12.7mm hole it still sits up off of the pipe, even when I put the knobby bit into the hole. It almost seems like it actually has to go past the hole for the rest of the parts to line up properly to the templates. Although the part where the folding stock barrel mount cylinder goes does say 'adjust if necessary'. The two parts of the stock don't join properly if I want the back half of it to join properly to the little cylinder thing. For the two parts to connect the back half of the stock can't attach properly to the cylinder holdy thing. If I try to make all of the parts of it connect together and stay together it does this... Anyone got any idea what I am doing wrong? Or any advice to get it all to work?
  15. How are you going with your build man? Made some progress?
  16. S'all good, I finally got it.
  17. I don't know why but it is literally impossible to make the damn rubber neck trim go on. I've tried about 20 times and no matter how I do it just slips off somewhere along the line and comes off. Am I meant to glue it on or something? Also it has split on the inside at one spot where I tried to get it over the part where the helmet overlaps at the right ear. >.<
  18. Awesome, I'm a bit hesitant to cut any more. So I'll leave it at that. I'm gonna heat up the plastic with a hairdryer or something and push the cheeks out a bit to get rid of all the gaps anyway.
  19. There's still a bit of a small gap at the back, but it isn't too bad. I also did the right ear, and while there is minor gaps there too I think I will just leave them. I can fix them later when I heat up the plastic and push it out a bit to eliminate all of the other gaps like Duncs recommended. So yeah, just a few minor gaps, but they aren't too bad. Front of the right ear Back of the right ear Front of the left ear Back of the left ear
  20. @Mike I think I have the angle right, but is the ear low enough? @Josh That's looking good mate. No problems at all, and good idea on not making a clone thread. Just be careful with the ears, don't go too fast like I did. Hehe feel free to ask away.
  21. Yeah I think the position is ok, but I don't know where on the ear to cut. It won't fit properly with the way it is cut at the moment, as you can see in the second picture. So I need to know whereabouts I should cut, like, the front of the ear? Or the back? Or on the curved part that goes on the tubes? Yeah I know what you mean Josh, but the concept is the same. No problem, good luck with your build!
  22. Ok I need help. The ears were trimmed nicely but obviously they still need a bit of touching up to fit the helmet. My problem is that I do not know where to trim or how much... I've put one screw in, after two attempts I think I found the right place for it. Is the ear is the right position? If it is at any other angle it won't cover the bottom pop rivet or the seam so I can't really position it any other way. Comments/advice/help please. D:
  23. Nope, I didn't trim anything else before I riveted. Be VERY careful with the ears, take it a very small bit at a time. I made the mistake of being over-confident with my dremel haha and that's why I needed a replacement pair sent. Where the green arrow is in your first picture, that will definitely be pulled in nice and tight by the pop rivet. as you can see below, it pulls together and fits against the helmet quite nicely. That uncut-looking piece where the yellow arrow is pointing..I had the exact same thing. I left it uncut, and yes you definitely do need it for the rivets to be able to go in. As you can see in the first two pictures below, the riveting really does pull the parts together quite nicely. ---HOWEVER: You MUST make sure that you use the washers provided on the inside of the helmet!! Otherwise you run the risk of snapping/damaging your helmet--- In this picture (below) you can see that the edges WILL need to be trimmed to fit flush with the bottoms of the ears. Did Trooperbay supply you with the PDF on helmet assembly? It's located earlier in this thread, and you will probably need it. Anyway, as you can see in the picture below, the faceplate will not line up perfectly to the bottom of the ear, which means that your job - once you have the ears on - is to mark and trim the chin so that the S-trim will fit properly. Something along this line is where you will need to cut. But DO NOT do that until you have the ears on, or you might cut way too much off or cut it on a weird angle or something. When the ears are on and everything is screwed together you will be able to mark it appropriately, then you can simply use a dremel with a sanding bit or use a scalpel or whatever to cut down to that line. But yeah, the left side will be pulled in by the rivets and then again by the ears. Also pretty much what seantrooper said. Good luck! If you have any more questions, ask away. Now, for my personal segment. My new ears from Trooperbay arrived today!! I just need to do some minor sanding and they will fit as good as gold. A HUGE thankyou to Trooperay for supplying these replacement ears! Not much to do.
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