Jump to content

dashrazor

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,109

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by dashrazor

  1. TK-5092 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status[197][MM]

    in Request Expert Infantry Status

    Posted

    simple fix??? i have to get all my damn tools back out... and find a way to remove the velcro which is superglued on there..

    and whats the deal with seeing the back illuminated lenses??

    the back illuminated lens shot is simply to show that the lenses are green tinted. like so

    IMG_1038.JPG

     

    as for removing the velcro,, i know it will be a bit of extra work but running it under hot water could make it easier. and adding the new cover strip will cover any glue residue ;)

     

    Is the AM shins rear cover strip a necessity for EIB and Centurion now? I thought it was just Centurion, but I'm still waiting on getting my digits, so I can't ready any of the member stuff yet.

     

    adding the cover strip is the only way to make the overlap correct. the shins fall into having correct armor assembly for base 501st, EIB and Centurion.

     

    here is the details from the latest poll

     

    There is also a major assembly problem with the AM/FX style greaves/shins armor that affect all levels of the requirements. Please look at tutorial HERE

     

    Note: This may be added to the base requirements.

     

    *The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg.

  2. TK-5092 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status[197][MM]

    in Request Expert Infantry Status

    Posted

    great looking build!! i wish i could kneel like that :P

     

    the ear screws and vocoder could be fixed but both are minor issues and will not effect your EIB, but if you wanted to apply for centurion i would require them to be fixed. i would also like to see a pic of the helmet with the lenses illuminated. ;)

     

    the only major problem is the shin assembly. your shins are on the correct legs but the molded cover strip on the back is on the wrong side.

    4330845442_775b396312.jpg

     

    there was a discussion and vote on this issue in the 501st section http://forum.whitear...showtopic=17887 and it was also in the latest newsletter http://forum.whitear...showtopic=18046

     

    the requirements for this style of shin are as follows:

    The greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg.

     

    here is a tutorial on fixing this problem http://forum.whitear...showtopic=16608

     

    basically you just need to put the molded cover strip on the inside and add a new cover strip to make a correct overlap. its a pretty simple fix :) and be aware that your shins are on the correct legs and do not need to be switched ;)

  4. how to make foam liner turn yellow under 10 minutes

    in Assembly, Mods, and Painting

    Posted

    Oder is not an issue, there is no guarantee that toxic fumes wont be present within the helmet even long after the bleach has evaporated. i will strongly advise you to remove the foam and use a safe method of yellowing. just like carbon monoxide, there may be no noticeable smell but the fumes can be deadly!

     

    i am locking this thread as it is not worth risking ones health for the sake of screen accuracy. no furthur discussin will be permitted

     

    like i stated before, it is a innovative idea, and it does work as you have shown. but that does not make the method safe... ammonia is sometimes used as a preservative in foam and when combined with bleach could produce a harmful gas! http://www.urbandict...m=mustard%20gas

     

    not only does it cause foam to become extremely flammable it can also produce chlorine vapor, it is the basic components of mustard gas!!!

  6. how to make foam liner turn yellow under 10 minutes

    in Assembly, Mods, and Painting

    Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
    link not working removed

    i agree,, not only will bleach break down the foam (it will literally fall apart in a fraction of the time) it could produce toxic fumes within the helmet that could be harmful :unsure: .

     

    while this is a great idea it could be VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!! there are much safer alternatives such as tea or food coloring or even even textile paints,,, that will have the same results and not affect the materials shelf life and produce toxic fumes!!!

     

     

    JUST SAY NO TO BLEACH!!!!!!

    --------

  12. ROTJ Finishing Strips

    in ROTJ Stormtrooper

    Posted

    if you plan on going ROTJ the ideal way is to do an overlap as seen on screen. but as it stands, there is no centurion requirement for overlaps or cover strips. (this could change in the future). as far as i know there are currently only 2 armor types that are specifically designed to overlap (AM and CFO) though you may be able to force an overlap with an ANH style kit but this might or might not work depending on the kit and a persons body type.

     

    so to fully answer your question. cover strips are not required for the time being but can be used for ROTJ armor (though not preferred)

     

    i would say if you can get an overlap to work and look decent, by all means do it :)... and if you need to use cover strips they are still passable. in some cases the overlap might look bad if the armor is not designed to be assembled that way, or if you have a body type that just wont allow an decent looking overlap :)

     

    can i ask what armor you are using? or planning to use?

  19. TKC Blasters

    in TKC BlasTech E11

    Posted

    oh, another option for a working stock is the asahi airsoft super sterling. they are pretty rare but do pop up from time to time

     

    1438320111108214746.jpg

     

    also bear in mind that the stock dosnt need to actually function. it just needs to be in the extended position ;)

  20. TKC Blasters

    in TKC BlasTech E11

    Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
    link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021

    well. the best way would be to get your hands on a MGC sterling replica or a deactivated C-1 sterling (canadian MP version) both are pretty pricey.

     

    alternatively you could make one from scratch :) here are some templates-----------

     

    or the 1.5" templates here-----------

     

    or you could use a pipe build from doopydoos or possibly even a hyper-firm and modify it to have a extended stock. you can get a real working stock from apex gun parts for 45$-----------

     

    another option would be to cut up a resin (doopy) stock and modify it to the open position ;)

  24. Is this a good glue ?

    in Hard Armor (General Discussion)

    Posted

    i use gorilla superglue mixed with plumbers goop for flexy parts (like the shins) :P and plastix bonder 2 part epoxy for the rest. just like Luis i am too impatient to wait for e6000 to dry. while E6000 is used by most troopers it is not the only option.

    the only surefire way to see if that particular glue is good for armor is to glue 2 scrap parts together with a 1" (more or less) overlap and try ripping them apart.. if the plastic breaks before the glued bond it is OK :) if it comes unglued by brute force (without damaging the plastic) dont use it.

     

    just my personal opinion and rule of thumb ;)

×
×
  • Create New...