Terry19D
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Posts posted by Terry19D
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Hello Daryn and welcome. There's lots of good info here, giving you plenty to read through and digest. By the time you're ready for some armor, you'll likely know everything you need to and it'll be a breeze.
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The base EID standards actually don't say how the TD should be mounted onto the belt, which allows for some freedom in choice. There are some TKs who have shaped their own clips, as well.
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Which Tandy clips did you get? For my FX TD, I used Tandy #1238-00, and it's somewhat smaller than the flat pieces they mount upon. I am also using this same part # for my RT TD, which is more accurately sized/shaped, and they fit perfectly. The larger clips, such as Tandy #1240-00, are wider and thus would hang off either side of the TD brackets.
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It's really a matter of wanting to get it right the first time with as minimum a fuss as possible, which means I'll definitely be taking my time.
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I have all the armor trimmed and cleaned up ready to begin assembly. I haven't gotten around to working on the calf "spoons" yet...I agree, that will probably be one of the most difficult parts of the whole suit to get right. I was nervous cutting the face off my helmet, but I think that was easy in comparison with the spoons... I think I'm going to enlist some help from a couple of garrison mates who have a lot of experience with clone armor to help me through the more difficult parts.
I hope to have my suit all done by the beginning of summer. I have just about everything else for a 327th - just need to buckle down and assemble/paint/weather the darn thing!
Good luck with your clone project, T - I know you'll do an awesome job.
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Nice to see you here, Seann. I've found that reading all the info here is just about as fun and rewarding as actually building a suit. And I think doing this now will help immensely in the future if you decide to dive into doing another outfit with a higher learning curve, such as a clone.
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Looking good so far.
The left thigh issue seems to be endemic to the FX suit, as mine did the same thing at first. After some fine-tuning and adjustment it's now at about the same level as the right. You might want to add some black strapping within the shoulder bells that will wrap around the bicep armor and help keep the bells in place when you move your arms.
Do you still have the chest piece velcroed to your suspender straps? That might be why it and the back piece are up so high, but I'm not sure. The majority of suits I've seen just let those pieces "float" on top of the ab & kidney plates, although I have seen some use velcro along the back of the chest armor to secure it to the ab piece. Also, I think you're wise to take another look at where you make the cut on the butt piece to make the seperation. For a lot of us the preformed line is too high up and makes it difficult to properly show the seperation beneath the belt (if you are interested in obtaining EIB). It might be best to have someone help you measure where the seperation would be seen with the belt on and make the cut there instead.
Overall it's all coming together nicely! Looking forward to seeing it finished.
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Hi Jeff and welcome to the FISD! I'm from the KC area, as well, so feel free to drop me a pm if you need any help, too. I have put together an RT suit to replace my FX - hopefully I can get some pics together soon.
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We're in this together, T!
I also have OSCS armor that I'm working on turning into a 327th Star Corps CT.I actually used a combination of using snips and the score-and-snap method, depending on the pieces being trimmed. The snips are especially nice for working around curves or for when the trim lines aren't well-defined. I also used both a Dremel sanding bit and regular sandpaper to clean up the edges to the trim lines.
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Hello, Cheyenne, and welcome to the FISD. I think the place you want to do some serious research is right here on this very forum. Specifically, check out the "Assembly, Mods and Painting" & "AP/TE2 Armor" subforums, as there is so much info about various armor types, the kind of work involved in putting them together, and what you might need to do to get them up to EIB standards.
The whole reason for this site's existence is to help folks avoid many of the mistakes that a lot of us have made over the years, so definitely take advantage.
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In the end, I just have fun, and I was one of teh people standing in line in 1877 to see the opening of Star Wars IV. So, have fun brother, and be proud of what you feel passionate about.
Wow, I'm older than I thought if the film came out that long ago!
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I hear ya about the difficulty in getting the ab/but plate seperation to show below the belt. Really, the preformed line on the FX armor isn't the best guide to use, especially for taller troopers like you and I (I'm 6'3"). Ideally another spot should be measured below where the belt rests, and then used as a guide to make the cut at that spot instead.
My lenses look light like that, as well, but they are plenty dark enough when actually wearing the helmet because light isn't entering or leaving the same way. Also they are easier to see out of because they still let in enough light, whereas darker grades make it nearly impossible to see under normal conditions - like wearing a welder's mask.
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Suit looks really nice, John! Yet another example that FX suits can look great with a little extra work.
The only two minor nitpicks about the photos I can see is that Terrell might want to see the kidney/back armor split below the belt when the belt is actually secured, as you could not clearly see this in the one shot where the belt was fastened. The other, even smaller bit is just showing that the lenses installed in your sweet TE2 bucket are green.
That's all I could see - really, you've done a great job.
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I've never heard of using snaps on armor to help keep it closed... I guess that had not occurred to me because it would be difficult to hide, even painted white, and because velcro or gluing works well enough on their own or in combination.
I agree with your logic that using snaps would show a larger gap between armor pieces than gluing (which produces none) or velcro, which doesn't have much of one. But then I've never seen an example of snaps being used so I can't say for sure. It would be interesting to see how it was done - get to work finding those pics, Aaron.
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Hello, David, and welcome to the FISD. It's nice to see a flyboy take some interest in the ground-pounding part of Imperial soldiering.
Might be best to just take some time and browse the forums, as there is a lot to take in. There's lots of great info and people here who can help you get squared away. And definitely make sure to enjoy your stay! -
Yes, the MRCE's frown is more modeled on the Hero design with three teeth on each side. The AP comes ready to go in the Stunt configuration.
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Well, the MRCE is not quite Legion acceptable out of the box, as there are some alterations that need to be done first. It's not a bad alternative at all to the FX bucket if you're willing to put a little work into it.
With the AP, the only part that I'm not sure about are the aerators - they *might* have to be changed out. I don't know if they do or not because I didn't use the ones that came with my AP, as I put in a pair of Stomper's great Hovi-mics w/ speakers and wired up an in-helmet sound system.
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Although I've never tried on an MR helmet, it looks larger than the AP.
I have an AP and love it (still miss that TE2 bucket... *sniff*). I guess I have a small head because I can get it onto my head while wearing glasses and having a built-in sound system. I think I can even cram in a fan or two in there if I need to, as well. I also have an RT helmet, and it is somewhat larger than the AP, but not as large as I thought (still smaller than the FX). Its also asymetrical, but not quite to the extent as the AP or TE2.
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If I understand it right, one of the main difference between something like Devcon Plastic Weld and E6000 is the cure time. Plastic Weld cures in something like 15-20 minutes (although it's not fully cured until about an hour), while E6000 takes around 24 hours to fully cure. It's not good for fast fixes.
The other real difference is that Plastic Weld only works on melding plastic pieces together. It actually melts the plastic to form a bond. On the other hand, E6000 will bond pretty much anything to anything, making it a lot more versatile. I've used it to bond plastic/plastic, metal/plastic, canvas/plastic, rubber/rubber, plastic/foam... Personally I love it. The long cure time is its only real downside.
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Just speaking for myself, the only parts on my armor where I have velcro are on the backs of the greaves (calves), the side plates, and on the back piece where the shoulder straps attach. I glued the thigh, forearm and bicep pieces completely so I can just slip in and out of them. If you need to adjust the fit that much, then you would end up having to put in shims anyway.
There's certainly nothing wrong with using velcro on all of those pieces, as the good industrial velcro's adhesive should stand up to repeated use and remain attached to the armor without being pulled off. I think carefully applying glue in a lot of those areas gives the armor a more "solid" appearance and looks more realistic, but that's just my opinion.
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I actually did not end up using hotglue on my lenses. I tried that first but did not like the results. Instead I found some small pieces of very sturdy packing foam material and cut pieces out to fit around where each lense goes. I then used superglue to glue them around the sockets, and then superglued the lenses to the foam. That way I have a more flush fit. I've trooped with this configuration for a while now (since last May) with no troubles.
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Nice to have you at FISD, Jay.
The armor does fit you pretty well already as Chefhawk noted. There are lots of ways that people have put their kits together, it's kind of personal preference and what works best for the individual.
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Welcome, Edward. I'm glad you didn't fall into the potential pit of rancors that is eBay.
Actually it's not a bad place, you just have to be careful of what is being offered and know what you're looking for.Good luck on obtaining and building your armor, you know we'll be here to help you out!
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It's nice to see all of your hard work pay off, isn't it?
The suit looks good, nice work!
TK-4803 Requesting ANH Elite Status (Stunt Version).[65][AP]
in Request Expert Infantry Status
Posted
Jess, that is a super-looking suit you have there! Very nice work.
Aside from the things you've already mentioned, the only other picture you might need is a right profile shot showing that side's armor gap closed. You have one for the left side but not the right.
Again, great job!