Discharged_Mindriot

heh Stuka, The ears are on pretty much at -35 degrees of straight down on both sides, anymore and they wouldnt cover where the cap'n'back meets the front plate (In fact they are both resting on the seam). The split where the fold in the ABS was is also visible, so I am think, fill the gaps with decorators chaulk and spray it I like it, however the boo boo with the 1st ear I put on has caused the epoxy putty to shatter as it had 2 holes drilled side by side... I have taken this out and I am gonna set it back up and drill it properly. I'll post piccies when done. I didnt have this much trouble with my crappy fibreglass lid i got for £25 This VT lid is wayyyyy wonky Stephen

point taken on the eyes, I was just a little scared to do this when originally trimming them out. Will hopefully get chance to do this on the weekend. When you say trim the top of the left ear, you mean the top part that sits against the helmet? Any Ideas on the rubber neck area?

Ok all, got the 'ears' on.... looks ok. I did have a couple of issues, the main one being I drilled in the wrong place, but I figure, the hole is on the inside, so sod it Also the bottom section that tucks under the lid, when I drilled this it went to close to the edge of the rear section, so the hole went U shaped. I glued on a piece of ABS to resolve (Again Hidden) and everything is OK. Just a question as well, the ears are level to the eyes and each other, but the lid itself is slightly skewed, so if you look at the left ear, it is lower against the cap'n'back than the right.... strange. I really dont like the large gaps either, you can see where the cap'n'back joins the face plate, so I have some decorators chaulk which I am going to try and use to fill (Nearly a perfect fit from behind though!!! go figure ). I take it, if I make a boo boo with this, it can be wiped/pull off to clean? Finally, if you look at the shot looking down into the lid, you will notice that there isnt exactly a constant 'rim' to attach the neck rubber to, any suggestions? Trim the face plate and ear sections? Cheers guys, you've all been ace so far

£2k is a lot of money for that eh

(These arent my listing btw - just found them today) Anyone up for a 'prototype' for the Master Replica Lid? hefty price though: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/master-replicas-stor...=item27aecbc6e2 here's the guys store, again all goods very pricey: http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/master-repli...c0Q2em14?_pgn=1

Hi Guys, Cheers for the advice. Panda there isnt a really a difference in the colour between the capnback and the face, so this is not something I noticed. The seam is generally covered by the ear, however the rubber brow needs replacing as I cut it too short right back at the beginning of the build :-s (inser idiot remarks here). As you can see its merely the ear section which doesnt fit.... I was trying to do what you suggested Panda but I just seem to be taking away, I am guessing that when I screw in the ear part and then then push the section under the neck into place and screw that in it should look ok?

heres the lid atm - as you can see the eyes need further trimming: Trimmed using dremel, files n sand paper get the ears in a bit

Right.... cut out the teeth and eyes (May need a bit of further trimming on the eyes) and started on the ears... rather tough if you ask me. I have tried to stay 2mm shy of what looks like the trim line (to allow for variances in the rest of the lid - allowing me to sand to shape), but even so if the round section presses against the lid the 'stork' part sticks out about 1cm.... the only thing I can think to do is to bend it back i.e. heat it up and bend it.... Is this a good idea? Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking of sticking them in the oven until they were plyable - but not completely floppy - any tutorials on this? (PS Dont have a heat gun :s ) I'll upload shots of the build when I get home

woo wooo somethings to try after I've done some prep for a job interview on wednesday... if the baby girl stops crying

Hi there, TK560's website has a link to a company that will sell you screen accurate trim: ----- Product #US161 or US52 for the brow and SWR150 for the neck apparantly Cheers Stephen

So.... best advice would be to live with it? I might have a look at taking a cast of the inside of the areator socket then reverse molding a installation base for my areators - I have them hollow in case I want to install a set of speakers at a later date

Cheers both, however my issue is that the areator base is flat and hollow, and the socket is rounded (Oval rather than spherical) Not sure if you can see my issue from the second shot, the areator stands off about 4 mm to the left and right but touches the socket at the top and bottom... I suppose I could use P38 (Bondo) to make an exact fit?

Heh Tom, Unfortunately it is completely hollow, all the way through I have a really badly casted set from VT which have the bolt in the back, so I could fill the areator in at the base and thread a bolt through, but as the socket is rounded the mic tip will not sit flush... is this how they should be?

Just a quick question of anyone. My areators are completely flat at the 'bottom' and hollow. The areator socket is rounded - how do i fit?

Well, OK, I decided to grind off the folds from the oxygen tube, however, this left me with a split piece of plastic, my solution, mold a square piece of epoxy putty over the inside crack. So heres the epoxy square: Closer? Then, I followed Andy's Plasti-Dip method (Paint available in the UK from http://www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm ) this went on nice over both areators and these 2 new pieces of epoxy putty, not to mention over the ABS on the inside of the cap n back and the front face 'plate', without any priming or sanding. Next step, cutting out the eyes and the teeth - 5 i thinks

Side note: Seen a nice helmet padding system : http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?show...mp;#entry121675 but cant seem to find anything like this in the UK, any ideas? Tried screwfix....

Thats the one. I'm thinking I may have to prepare with a light sanding before I get into spraying I know Andy said he didnt, but I want the paint to adhere properly without priming. If I get chance I may do a bit of this tonight (Rain permitting)

I should add, I tried using cloth and glue, but royally messed it up - superglue and ABS dont mix, throw in some rubber gloves and all hell broke loose I advise against using Superglue, blue rubber gloves and cloth with ABS All covered up by the putty now so its not noticable apart from a piece of cloth just above the inside left areator socket

I used Pandatrooper's recommendations and reinforced the areator sockets with epoxy putty - (£1 - good buy from the GF) Next I am going to coat the inside of the cap 'n' back and the front section with plastidip rubberised paint in black, which should look great (saw it on a post on the FISD but cant remember where please post a link if anyone finds this, or knows where it is) Slowly slowly atm as my 3 month old takes up a lot of time

Think these trim lines are similar to those Stukatrooper suggested Now to move onto the face plate (which i have trimmed so the sides which fit behind the cap n back are the same length on either side

Just tried doing a search on screwfix for these but couldnt find anthing..... have you got a link?

ahh OK

ahh OK no worries

as a side note, does TK-4510 know that VT ships his decals with his lids?

Fantasic Stukka! I'm sure I will get it together and as I do so it will start to look amazing.... I would send it to one of the other UK guys, but its my baby and I want to do it!