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SolderMaster

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Posts posted by SolderMaster

  2. TK-5435 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status [ATA][355]

    in Request Expert Infantry Status

    Posted

    It was just a suggestion.  Some troopers need them and some don't.  Personally I've never used them and have never felt the need for them and I've done some adventurous things in armor over the years.

     

    Hmmm I guess I always assumed they all had them. Of course, I didn't connect my chest to my ab or back to kidney. Makes sense, though. 

     

    Tom, get that holster trimmed down, you slacker!!!! :laugh1:

  10. I know, I know.. but I didn't know before I joined here.

    in eBay Armor

    Posted

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_helmet.jpeg Helmet

    For 501st approval:

    • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They may be flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are: black, smoke, dark green, or silver.
    • The body of the "ears" may be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and may be left the same color as the body or painted black.
    • The frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are: black, gray or silver. If there are spaces between the teeth the wearer's face must not be seen
    • The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These may be hand painted or decals. There does not need to be the same number per side.
    • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) may be black or silver.
    • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening maybe silver or black.
    • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) may be: hand painted, decals. Acceptable colors are: black or gray. Rear traps and tears may have vertical black lines. 
     

     

     

    150px-TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal

    For 501st approval:

    • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. 
    For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):   

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_shoulderstraps.jpeg Shoulder Straps

    For 501st approval:

    • These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_shoulderbells.jpeg Shoulder Bells

    For 501st approval:

    • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_biceps.jpeg Biceps

    For 501st approval:

    • Biceps are fully closed. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_forearms.jpeg Forearms

    For 501st approval:

    • Forearms must appear to be fully sealed and enclosed. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_handplates.jpeg Handplates

    For 501st approval:

    • Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material but must remain glossy. 
     

     

     

    150px-TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg Gloves

    For 501st approval:

    • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
    For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):   

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_chest.jpeg Chest Plate

    For 501st approval:

    • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_back.jpeg Back Plate

    For 501st approval:

    • Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. 
     

     

    150px-TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg Under Suit

    For 501st approval:

    • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_ab.jpeg Abdominal Plate

    For 501st approval:

    • The ab plate has a button area that has 9 gloss black buttons of approximately 7/16" in diameter. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_kidney.jpeg Kidney Plate

    For 501st approval:

    • It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_butt.jpeg Butt Plate

    For 501st approval:

    • It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should line up below the bottom of the belt with with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_belt.jpeg Belt

    For 501st approval:

    • Belt face is made of plastic (ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end.
    • Belt proper may be made from glossy black ABS or a similar shiny material and must be 3 to 3.5" wide. Black canvas or similar heavy material may also be used.
    • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_detonator.jpeg Thermal Detonator

    For 501st approval:

    • (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is an all black cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with black end caps and a black control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_thighs.jpeg Thigh Armor

    For 501st approval:

    • The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_shins.jpeg Shin Armor

    For 501st approval:

    • The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_boots.jpeg Boots

    For 501st approval:

    • Black leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodphur-type boots or an equivalent style. All stitching must be black, and unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Elvis / Mariachi boots are not acceptable.
    • White, or other color boots may be painted black so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color. 
     

     

     

    150px-TX_shadowstorm_holster.jpeg Holster

    For 501st approval:

    • Made of black leather or leather-like material.
    • Holster must be worn on the left and be may be attached to the belt from behind with rivets or with loops covering the outside of the belt. 

     

     

    Tim, above is the CRL for the Shadow Stormtrooper. Once you receive your armor, review this post and match up the specs with what you have. Just by looking at the helmet photo, it doesn't look too bad. Can't tell if the aerators are grey or silver. You just might be ok.

     

    DO NOT RUSH YOUR BUILD. If you run into any snags, PLEASE don't hesitate to post and ask questions, either here or over on the Spec. Ops forums. REMEMBER....We are here to help. Troopers helping troopers!!

  11. I know, I know.. but I didn't know before I joined here.

    in eBay Armor

    Posted

    I really think your best bet here would to be resell that kit when it arrives and then get yourself a kit made of correct material.

     

    I realize you will have to do a little more waiting but I promise you it will be worth it. You can definitely get more for your hard earned money than...that.

     

    Try here if you haven't already: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

     

     

    Yes, I read through that thread yesterday. It took me this long to post because I was afraid of the answers I would get. BUT, I'm beyond that and am looking for advice. Even advice I was afraid to hear. I'll keep looking for the correct armor but will work with this until i find it.  

     

    If it's that bad, I'd really hate to pass it on to someone else but I guess that's the way the game is played. Thanks for the info. Ok, where can I buy the correct kit? Any websites or venders? I know the correct ones to buy now, just not where.

     

    I appologize for my ignorance but with no one in my area to learn from, I guess i have to make a few mistakes to get it right. ;)

     

    Read the first quote, it has the link to where to get REAL armor from.

     

    And Tim, PLEASE never fear what the folks here might say. We are all here for the greater good for all prospective members or even just costuming enthusiasts. I would hope that no one would razz you or insult you for what you decide to buy. We may, however, give you options or ideas. We just HATE when folks get ripped off on eBay. Especially when there is sooo much better armor out there. Most often than not, people who buy armor on eBay thinking they got a "great deal", end up spending more money in the long run.

     

    Now, let me look over your photos of what you got and see what we can do for you...

  16. Where, What and Whom To Avoid When Buying

    in Getting Started - Read this First!

    Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
    link not working removed

    I don't see CTM Props on the list yet. I have seen the kit in person and it looks like a direct recast of ATA....with poor details and interesting ab plate changes. It also has very noticable vacuum pin hole marks where the air was sucked out during the molding process. I'll take some photos the next time the kit is on premisis. 

     

    https://www.facebook.com

    Hello Troops

    in New Member Introductions Archive

    Posted

    Boom! Found you Mike. Just received your email and sent one back. Welcome to everything Imperial Stormtrooper!!

     

    By your email, it sounds like you've decided on RT. Great choice but there is a long waiting list last I heard.

     

    Got questions? We've got answers!!! Post away!

  23. E-11 Hasbro Conversion on eBay

    in ANH BlasTech E11

    Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
    link removed no longer working

    LOL I just emailed a guy selling one. He asked if the blaster with the Doopy Doos kit was acceptable for 501st impression...here's the email.

     

     

    Hi,

     

    I'm selling a Hasbro blaster upgraded with the Doopydoo's skin conversion kit on eBay. I had a question from a potential buyer who asked if this weapon was appropriate for a 501st impression. I had to admit, I didn't know. Could you tell me if this kind of blaster is acceptable? I'd appreciate a swift reply so I can get back to him before the auction ends.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Mark

     

    And my responce...

     

     

    Hi Mark,

     

    A Hasbro blaster upgraded with the Doopy Doos kit, is 501st acceptable.

    However, it is ONLY acceptable for basic approval for the Stormtrooper and it's variants. It is NOT acceptable for Expert or Centurion status. These are detachment based degrees of screen accuracy.

     

    Before you take my words and add them to your eBay listing, please send me a picture of the blaster or the link to your auction so I may verify what you are actually selling.

     

    Best Regards,

     

    Brian Rogers

    TK-5569

    Imperial Stormtrooper Attaché

    Wisconsin Garrison Member Liason

    501st Legion

     

    He did send me pictures and it is perfectly fine.

     

     

    Brian,

     

    Here are the pictures of my blaster. As you can see, I've gone beyond the basic conversion and added wires from the terminals of the counter box leading to the magazine cylinders as I've seen done on more "professional" jobs. I've also added the six-digit number gauge found on the original E & H counter boxes. Of course, the buyer will want to weather or otherwise customize the blaster personally. I'm also including a couple of targeting reticle decals for the rear "lens" of the scope. What do you think of these photos?

     

    Here is the lin--------------

     

    I tried adding the pics here but they don't work, sorry.

     

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