Ramblin Trooper

My old kit was an AM 1.0. The new kit is AP. Anyway, this is what I'm doing. I've added some shims to the sides to bring the gap down to less than 1/4". Pretend that I've already installed the split rivets, etc. Rather than use narrow straps from rivet to rivet, I've made some large webbing panels, with velcro on each side. I tend to think this is more durable than 1" elastic with holes punched in it for rivets. I've done this for several other people in the garrison, and they've had good results. Thoughts?

Hey all. Its been a long time, and I mean a LOOOOOOONG time, since I spent some quality time here on the detachment forums. I've got an aging TK thats over 8 years old. Its pretty beaten up and worn out, so I've started building a new one! Back when I built my first kit, I didn't do EIB (and Centurion wasn't even a thing yet). But I'd love to build my new kit to EIB & Centurion standards. I've got a question for you more knowledgeable guys before I get too far into it: Is there an internal strapping requirement for EIB or for Centurion? Will an application for EIB or Centurion be denied on the basis that the internal strapping is not identical to the screen used strapping methods? I know that for both EIB and Centurion, pictures of the internal strapping, etc are required. I ask because I'm planning on using the split rivets and button snaps in all the required places, but I'm *not* planning on actually using them for the structure of the kit. I intend for them to be for accuracy only, and I'm planning on using some other strapping and attachment methods. Would this work? As long as all of the visible exterior details are present and correct, are various internal strapping methods acceptable? Thanks in advance!

Looking good so far! We'll get you geared up, don't worry.

I was actually approved a couple of months ago, so better late than never I suppose... TK-8198, requesting 501st Status. TK-8198

I really doubt you would be able to get rid of the thumbprint bit, at least not totally. You might... *might* be able to make it a little less pronounced, but it would be a lot of work. A heat gun *will* take it out with enough exposure, but you'd probably have a nice big warped looking spot where it used to be... which probably wouldn't be any better. I guess technically the thumbprint on the "canon" TKs was a warped place... hehe. As far as something underneath it to keep it from inverting... When I used a heat gun on my armor, I just had some leather work gloves on (fabric tends to leave the pattern of the weave on the armor) and bent a small area at a time just by hand. I'm sure there are plenty of other folks here who know more about it than me, but that seemed to work about as well, if not better, than anything else I tried. Just have to take it slow... A couple of shots of mine before assembly, one with my thumb on it for scale: -----