pandatrooper
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Posts posted by pandatrooper
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E6000 for most parts. Some ABS glues for quick set parts that don't need a lot of alignment.<br><br>
I never use CA glues for armour. I find it doesn't have much give to it, but other builders seem to like it.
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The reason that some paints crack is because most rattle can lacquer paints are not designed to flex very much if at all. You need some kind of flex agent if the surface is going to bend past a given point.
The other issue is some rattle can paints say they have one coat finish, or double coats, etc. This lays the paint on too thick and this can also cause cracking.
As mentioned, prep is a big deal. I've painted plenty of things, props and helmets and costumes with Krylon and never had issues if the prep was done right.
- sand surface down to 400- clean surface (remove all oils, I find on plastic, resin and fiberglass liquid dish detergent works well. on metal use degreaser)
- use a tack cloth to remove lint
- prime the surface. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy.
- after dry, apply top color coat. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy
- always start your spray before you pass over the object, end the spray after you pass it
- try to keep one edge always "wet" as you cover your object in left to right rows
- I can't stand Youtube videos where people just "wag the can all over" because this leaves an uneven finish
- do both on the same day, never leave coats too far apart otherwise they won't bond to each other
- let it dry. At least 3-4 days, a week is great.
- never paint in the sun, or on hot humid days, this affects the paint greatly
- never paint in the cold
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I know this isn't screen accurate and it's not for everyone. But I tried it out on a friends build and it works pretty good!
I made a video that describes a "tab to slot" closure for the right side of the torso. This prevents the abdomen from becoming misaligned with the kidney. I think a few people have done something similar to this but I've never done it on one of my builds.
It's simply some scrap 2mm thick and plastic glued to the kidney side. It has a slight bend in the plastic along the edge of the kidney, may 10-15 degrees.
This lines up with a slot on the abdomen that's also made from 2mm abs plastic, glued to 2 risers. The total lentgh of the tab and slot could vary depending on armor type, so I didn't include that info. But the tab sticks out about 1.25" from the kidney. The slot is made from a 1.25" wide strip, sitting on two 1.25" x 1.25" squares, glued to the abdomen.
The torso can be held shut with a simple Tandy line 24 snap which is visible on the upper corner of the abdomen.-
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Can one of the web folks look at this issue? It seems to happen on various mobile devices. I'm using an Android phone and an iPad. Same thing happens.<br><br>
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. It's good to hear the design process so far.<br><br>
I think what is still being disputed are the molds themselves.<br><br>
The other maker has shown his traditionally created molds, MDF with bondo. Your molds are more production savvy, but other than seeing a small number of actual production mold images, you still haven't shared photos of your actual molds.<br>
I think showing them with a tape measure for dimensions would settle this dispute, as the costuming community in general does not support recasting of any kind (if that actually happened).
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As a CO in a different garrison, if you want a second set of eyes and an objective opinion, I'll take up both armour makers on the offer if they are both willing to share openly.<br><br>
Objectively observe, document, review, share the results.
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Also, in regards to 3D scanning - the scan itself is usually a point cloud. It's a big fuzzy 3D mess of dots in space. You can't use that scan for CNCing or 3D printing as it's far too rough. The useable model usually is made from scratch, only using the scan as a proportional and size guide.<br><br>
In some circles, digital scanning for reference is not considered recasting because of the work involved to make it useable. <br><br>
This is completely different than we normally associate with recasting (pouring plaster into someone's molds / armour).<br><br>
I'm not siding or supporting one maker or another,I just wanted to add some process information to this conversation. However, I do think the Fisd should discuss and adopt some stance on this. Eg: Anovos clearly scanned RS parts for their OT TK armour. Their molds were made in Aluminum as they stated and showed. So licence holder or not, are they considered "digital recasters?"
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As far as I understood, the Legion as an organisation does not condone recasting but will not pursue / police recasters.<br><br>
If there's proof that someone has recast someone else's work on the detachment, the sales threads can be removed and the seller would not be a "vetted and approved" seller. Is that still correct?
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I recently made a how to video and covered the pros and cons of each. Just my opinion of course.<br><br>
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Boot stretch spray can be made with 60% alcohol, 40% water.<br><br>
A DIY way to stretch is spray them down, then put on slightly thicker sock and wear the boots all day until dry
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That's what I mentioned above.
<br>"unless you have a different sized collet or secondary chuck"
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Can you use a dremel to drill holes? Yes. But only 1/8" holes as that's what the chuck holds unless you have a different sized collet or secondary chuck.<br><br>
You generally want different speeds or torque when drilling holes in most things.
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Why buy that when you can get a proper helmet for just a little more?
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I have a Plano box but this is the technique I use.<br><br>
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I would suggest getting RT-mod thighs. They are much bigger in circumference and we're designed for bigger troopers.
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I personally think military helmet padding is too hard / firm for a thin plastic helmet IMO.<br><br>
Just go for one of the simplefoam options<br>
I've used ProTec skateboard helmet padding OK n a few helmets, they seem to work well.
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It's a small motor for rumble. I didn't use it,just annoying.
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Too hot, limits air flow in my opinion. Stick to tried and true solutions. Star foam, foam blocks, sports helmet inserts etc.
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Congrats and you're welcome.
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Welcome! Find the 501st Garrison in your area, register on their forums and introduce yourself so that people can help you in person.<br><br>
In terms of getting familiar with all the terminology and where to start, try reading the sub forums here.<br><br>
<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/</a>
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It can be reshaped with a heat gun, but very, very carefully.
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Gaps between limbs are completely dependent on the size and physical build of the individual.<br><br>
A better way to approach this would be to take the parts together on your body, startba build thread and post some pictures.<br><br>
That way, forum members can say "cut an inch off here, take 2 inches off there, there's no return edge needed there etc.
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You could try ABS pipe too, 2" usually works.
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Try 2" ABS pipe, not PVC.
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Stick's RT-MOD stunt build
in ANH (Stunt and Hero)
Posted
The RT-mod will fit you way better than the Anovos.
Yes, they kidney and cod are separate. This is due to the size of the parts.