TKSnake's ANH TK Repair & Electronics Tutorials

[TKSnake[TK]]

 

From the desk of TKSnake

 

From the urging of other members, I am going to port some of my knowledge over from my build blog at http://obsidiustk.blogspot.com to create a series of tutorials from info I've gathered from my first few years of building and patching ANH armor, and making electronics.

 

Like many recent additions to the FISD, I am using the Anovos kit. I was fortunate enough to get in on the ground floor with their dirt-cheap offering. It's a decent kit, but its thinner pulls can cause cracks and wear to happen sooner. I've been patching mine as I go along, and will create tutorials that display my methods, based upon info from here on teh FISD forums as well as some methods I'm trying out through a process I somewhat accurately call "mad science."

The Empire wasn't built in a day, and neither will this thread. Stay tuned for posts. I'll be editing this OP with a ToC as I create posts to make navigation easier.

 

Table of Contents:

 

Armor Ho-Tos:

Problem: You cut your thighs too short

 

Electronics How-Tos:

Soldering 101

 

More added as I manage to write it  

Edited May 29, 2018 by TKSnake

[TKSnake[TK]]

Problem: You cut your thighs too short

 

Did you get ahead of yourself? Did you try fitting your thighs for movement and then discover there's waaaaayyyyy too much black between where the top of your thigh stops and where your belt and ab plate start?

 

Oops.

 

You could buy new thigh pieces and try all over again. But if you have some scraps (including the pieces you just cut off, or even some larger cut-off sections), some ABS paste (for ABS kits, mode from other ABS scraps dissolved in acetone), or filler putty for non-ABS kits, you might be able to correct this issue - although it won't be fast or easy. Like you often hear when building things, it's easier to remove material than to put it back, and you're going to have to put back some material, ergo, not easy.

 

My experience is with the Anovos ABS kit, so if you're using PVC, HIPS, etc. your filling method might be different, and you will probably have to paint afterwards, but the theory is still the same.

 

First, start by fastening some spare scrap to the inside top of your thighs (using ABS paste or CA glue) to act as a backing to the pieces you'll need to re-add. Add a copious amount of ABS paste or filler to the top of the thigh pieces, and then glue to cut-off portions back onto the thigh as close as possible, sandwiching as much of the filer in between as possible.

 

You can also use CA glue for faster set-up, but you'll have to work more quickly. Plus, this will leave a seam of CA glue between the visible joint of the two pieces, so if you don't want to paint afterwards, this method may not be as desirable.

 

You'll want to ensure the facing portions are as flush as possible. You can do this by using clamps (and perhaps a flexible straight edge), clamping one side to the main thigh and the other to the re-added portion. This is necessary to not only avoid unnecessary sanding, but to ensure that the pieces were as continuous as possible for a good look.

 

Make sure to give the filler plenty of time to dry so you can move directly towards sanding and re-filling.

 

 

If you no longer have the cut-off piece, and you're good at shaping, you can create a new piece to re-add if you have enough stock or scrap. You can begin by taking a a piece of scrap large enough for the missing portion. clamp it to the top of the thigh piece and trace a line on the scrap as a rough outline to cut out the bottom so it will be flush to the top of the existing thigh.

 

 

Then, before doing any more cutting or shaping, attach the piece to the top of the thigh using the aforementioned steps. Once the initial butt joint is set, get a general idea of the shape you need for the top of the thigh and trace a lin e for cutting. I was fortunate enough to be able to use some cuttings to help create this shape, but there are plenty of pictorial references on FISD, like the CRL and reference shots on these forums, to help convey the shape at the top of each thigh.

 

As discussed earlier, the top pieces are shimmed back on using backing supports, glued to the thighs and shimmed pieces using CA glue, as they'll be permanently attached and require added strength, since the tops of the thighs take extra stress as they often get crammed into a trooper's hip when the leg is flexed. Other strips are also added to the sides to help retain the shape of the thigh in those areas.

 

 

Once the butt joint is sufficiently set, you can cut along the top cut line to finish creating the new top of the thigh piece.

 

To be honest, the easiest way to apply ABS paste in these situations is to just use your (clean, unsoiled) fingers. This way, you can press it into the cracks, smear the more liquid paste like finger paint, or sculpt more solid paste like soft clay. When you do this, make sure your hands are clean or use silicone gloves. Remember to wash your hands when you're done.

 

The rough ABS paste is then sanded down. Then, more paste is added in divots, pock marks, and other depressions in the armor, and then sanded down. This process is repeated several times with 100 and 150 grit sand paper until the seams are smooth for the most part. ABS paste is also added at certain parts on the top of the thigh near the edges of the added pieces, to help better secure the pieces and to maintain the shape of the top of the thighs.

 

 

Use a new batch of unadulterated ABS paste and very clean thigh pieces for the last coat, to color match the thighs as best as possible, as a final coat that can be lightly sanded and polished to make a natural-looking thigh piece. Before you do this, though, you'll probably need to fix your cover strips too.

 

You might be able to source ABS or plastic from the hardware store that matches your armor color close enough, cut to the correct width (20mm); otherwise, you might need to repaint once you finish repairs. I Was lucky enough to have some scrap strip left over that I was able to butt joint cement using regular CA glue, with minimal seaming.

 

 

 

In my case, the scrap strips were butt joined to the existing strips using a carefully-cut matching joint and CA glue which, despite the small cross-section for adhesion, worked extremely well. Afterwards, I coated the seam with ABS paste and sanded down. When I put the final ABS paste coat on the rest of the thighs, I'll do the same here to even better hide the seam to give the appearance of one continuations piece of strip.

 

 

 

Before moving on to the final paste layer and sanding, you may need some build-up on the edge of any fabricated pieces to function as edge return. Use filler or ABS paste, and a putty knife; build-up by scraping the paste off of the knife on the back edge of the piece. The considerable layering and build-up may require some time to harden to sand and shape the build-up to match the desired edge shape and thickness. Fill in any air bubbles in order to avoid edge return cracks in the future.

 

 

Finally, if you're painting the pieces, you should be able to rough them up at this point to prime and paint.

 

For ABS kits where you don't want to paint, in order to get the best color match to the rest of the pieces, make some some new, pristine ABS paste, making sure to use only fresh scraps in a new glass jar. This mixture should be more liquid than paste to help ensure the coating is more uniform and less thick to, reduce the amount of sanding required, since it is only being applied superficially and not structurally.

 

Once this paste is ready for application, apply it using your fingers (using clean, washed hands) like one would do when finger painting. Dab a bit onto the seam area and spread it  until the paste starts to set; repeat until the seam or work entire work area is covered. After coating the entire work area of one thigh, move to the other of working both thighs. When that thigh is done, as the paste sets up fast due to its thin coat, start sanding the first thigh with 150 grit paper to remove streaks, and repeat on the second thigh. Then repeat this entire process to add a second coat. Overall, this should help minimize the seams between the pieces significantly.

 

 

With that process done, it's now time for final sanding and polishing. This is accomplished using the following sandpaper grits and processes:

• 350 grit
• 600 grit
• 600 grit wet
• 1500 grit wet
• 2000 grit wet (optional)

For the wet sanding, for those unfamiliar with the process, simply dip the sandpaper in a bowl of water to get the paper wet, and then sand with the wet paper and water. This method is used in automotive finishes and helps to polish the area before final polishing.

 

While sanding, take care to look for deeper scratches (drying off wet areas with a paper towel to inspect work areas). If need be, drop to a rougher sandpaper or start over on certain sections to help remove deep scratches.

 

Once you're satisfied, apply your favorite polish, like Novus 3 and then Novus 2 plastic polish, until the thighs are nice and shiny.
 

Better!

 

Original blog references:

https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/05/the-thigh-re-re-master-ctrl-z-ctrl-z.html

https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/05/the-thigh-re-re-master-pt-2-mr-sandman.html

Edited May 30, 2018 by TKSnake

[TKSnake[TK]]

Soldering 101

 

If you've always wanted to get into soldering your own electronics for cosplay but have never picked up a soldering iron before, I've created some tips on how to do basic soldering, based off my personal experience on doing soldering as a hobby and for the US Military.

 

The Basics of What You'll Need:

• Soldering Wand or Station
• Soldering sponge or metal tip cleaner
• Solder
• Flux
• Soldering Clamps (like Velleman Helping Hands)
• Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol
• An old toothbrush
• Assorted wiring shrink wrap

If you'd like to know more, please read on.

 

Soldering Irons

 

Cheap soldering irons can get your foot in the door. As long as it can melt solder, you have something you can work with. Simple soldering wands are the main way people do soldering.

 

However, if you want to get into good soldering, a solder station will be a better option for a number of reasons, but most importantly because:

• Soldering stations have a built-on solder iron holder. You don't have to worry about dropping your iron, which can be dangerous and cause bodily harm or damage property.
• Most stations have a sponge holder, which is important for cleaning the iron and making clean solder welds.
• You can control temperature. Soldering wands always operate at full power, meaning that tips wear down faster due to oxidation; plus, there's a higher possibility of damaging components at high power, especially when soldering on Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs). Soldering stations typically have a temperature dial.

For about $30 - $50, you can get a decent soldering station with adjustable temperature. For example, the Weller WLC100 is a great beginning soldering station, doesn't cost much more than a stand-alone wand, and includes a sponge and temperature control (my non-endorsed, honest opinion). Tips are more expensive than budget tips, but rightfully so - they'll last longer than budget tips too, especially if you use my Best Practices tips below to help ensure their longevity.

 

When I was in the USMC, I was trained on Pace PRC-2000 workstation. I'd love to have one since it does soldering, paste dispensing, has a de-soldering vacuum, etc., but as they cost over $5000 they're a but out of my price range at this time

 

Types of Solder

 

Electronics work is done with solder, which is a blend of tin, nickel, and sometimes a touch of lead to lower the melting point. Typically, I use standard 60/40 (60% tin / 40% nickel) solder with a rosin core.

 

For health issues, ironically, lead (if using leaded solder) isn't as big of a fumigation problem as the rosin flux inside of the solder, since lead doesn't boil off until it reaches ~2000 degrees F (most soldering is done only at ~400 - 500 degrees F). Rosin helps the solder adhere and melt, but is a sticky, tarry substance that can build up in lungs over time, like tar from cigarettes. Make sure to solder in a well ventilated area, and blow fumes away from your face when soldering.

 

Most solder has a flux core to help with solder jobs. For electronics jobs, we use rosin flux, NOT acid flux (which is used in plumbing). You can also use solder without flux, and use extra flux instead (which is what I personally do). Look below for more info on flux.

 

Flux

 

Most beginning soldering jobs fail because they don't use extra rosin flux. I can't emphasize how important flux is in creating strong, clean solder joints. Although there's typically flux already on many solders, extra flux can really help solder a joint together. Flux cleans any oxidation and helps lower the surface tension of the solder, so it can better permeate the solder joint and create a strong weld. Just a small dab per joint is all you need. It does leave a sticky film afterwards, which you can clean up using my Clean-Up tips below.

 

Best Soldering Practices

 

When soldering, using the following steps help ensure a clean, strong soldering joint:

• Apply solder to the joint, NOT the iron. Apply flux to the joint, heat up the joint with the soldering iron, and add the solder to the hot joint.
• Using clips can help keep joints stationary while soldering, especially when soldering two wires together, for example. This leaves your hands free to apply flux, the soldering iron tip, and solder.
• Keep your soldering iron clean. Before you start a solder joint, run the tip of the iron across your wet sponge quickly to remove oxidation. Always use non-abrasive methods to clean your iron to ensure the nickel outer shell lasts as long as possible.
• Prevent tip oxidation. While your iron is idle, tin the tip with some solder to protect it against air, which causes oxidation. Turn your iron off if it's going to be idle for longer than a few minutes. 
• Replace your tips as necessary. Over time, the end of the tip will become irregular, as the outer nickel outer shell wears off and the tip's iron core is exposed, which oxidizes and wears out faster. When this happens, you should discard and replace the tip. Otherwise, your solder jobs will start getting chunkier and chunkier, leading to bad joints and faulty circuits.

Solder Joints

 

Tinning

Whenever you solder stranded wires (wires made of smaller wires, like in most flexible wiring, it's important to tint eh end of the wire. This is done by applying some flux and then soldering the end of the wire with a hot iron and some solder. Tinned wires are easier to work with, and provide a little extra solder when soldering the wire to a board or another wire.

 

Hook Joint

When soldering wires together, one technique you can use is  a hook joint. It's easier when using helping hands but can be done also via gravity (dangling one wire from the other during soldering) so long as there's no weight load on the wires.

• Tin the end of both wires to be joined
• If the joint will close the connection, remember to slide shrink wrap down the wires to be shrunk later
• Use a needle-noise pliers or round pliers to create a u-shaped hook on the end of each wire
• Hook the wires together, and crimp the hooks on top of each other
• Apply flux to the joint, then solder with a hot iron and solder
• Apply shrink wrap to cover the solder joint

Butt Joint

Butt joints are harder and require your clamps or helping hands to hold both ends of the wire together during the solder weld, but are sometimes necessary when wires are close together or you want to keep shrink wrap from bulging to make installation wire mesh or the wires themselves easier. It's similar to the above procedure, but with fewer steps.

• Tin the end of both wires to be joined
• If the joint will close the connection, remember to slide shrink wrap down the wires to be shrunk later
• Use the helping hands to place the end of one wire on top of the end of the other wire
• Apply flux to the joint, then carefully solder with a hot iron and solder without disturbing the placement of the wires
• Apply shrink wrap to cover the solder joint

Through-Board Joints

For Velleman MK136 and other solder kits, your solder joints will be through-board; that is, the component leads will go through the top of the board, and soldered on the bottom of the board. When doing through-board soldering, remember to get your components set up first and trim as much of the lead off as your' comfortable with (using masking tape to hold components to the board while soldering also helps). put on some flux, and get the hot iron to touch both the lead and the pad before adding solder. Remember to only use as much solder as necessary to connect the lead to the entire circumference of the pad.

 

Surface Mount Soldering

Surface mount components are what most modern PCBs use, wherein micro-miniature components are soldered onto the top of the board, typically using wave soldering, or paste soldering and heat guns. These are advanced manufacturing techniques and not currently part of this how-to post.

 

De-soldering

 

If you need to de-solder, such as removing pre-fab components from a PCB or correcting a mistake (like soldering an LED backwards), de-soldering is typically done in two ways:

• Wicking braid: This is copper broad that is placed on top of a soldering joint. A hot iron is placed on top of the braid, which wicks up the solder as it melts, like a paper towel. The braid can get hot during de-soldering, so take care to not get burned.
• Solder vacuum: While liquefying the solder joint while applying the iron, a small vacuum is placed near the joint. When the button on the vacuum is pressed, the vacuum engages and suck up the liquid solder.
  • Although this method doesn't require any disposable braid, I find it less useful than braid personally.
  • Some high-end soldering stations include a de-soldering tool, which is essentially an iron with a hollow tip which acts as a vacuum. However, these stations can be quite expensive.

 

Insulation and Shrink Wrap

 

When you're soldering wires together, it's important to add shrink wrap to each conductor so your wires don't short out. Think carefully when soldering, as often times you'll need to apply shrink wrap before you solder, since you won't be able to add it after the solder joint is made.

 

You can shrink wrap with a heat source, like a lighter or heat gun. The former works well enough, but remember to move your heat source around while shrinking to avoid charring the wire or shrink wrap. Heat guns work better in this case since they are less likely to char.

 

Use shrink wrap just large enough for the job, to ensure it shrinks to a nice, snug fit. For some joints, you might need two different gauges of wrap - a larger one to cover the joint, and another to place over the end of the larger gauge, to shrink it more snug to the wire insulation.

 

Clean-Up

 

On the soldering kits and larger jobs, you'll want to remove excess flux with isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush or disposable towels. Alcohol cleans up the stick flux residue without corroding or damaging the components. An old thrombus is stiff enough to scrub off the flux while gentle enough to not damage your components or solder joints.

 

Clean your soldering iron sponge or tip cleaner after your soldering sessions. You don't want to get old solder back on the tip while you're trying to clean it.

 

After everything else is clean, remember to clean your hands. Flux is a stomach irritant and can lead to GI discomfort. Like your solder projects, you can clean flux from your hands with some rubbing alcohol and light scrubbing, and good 'ole soap.

 

More Information:

 

You Tube:

• How to Solder (from CuriousInventor)

Edited May 30, 2018 by TKSnake