Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 These photos and text have been placed here with permission from the original posters. Many thanks to Krista (kme1682/IG-1682) for compiling all this information. All the photos in the FISD gallery: TK6682 (Bender) Finished Prototype Thermal Detonator TK6682 (Bender) Thermal Detonator Before Bondo TK6682 (Bender) Thermal Detonator With Bondo TK6682 (Bender) Thermal Detonator Attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 TK3100 Thermal Detonator Assembly The parts cut out. I scored mine wrong and left these cuts. Easy to do without instructions but plenty of beer. Bondo should fix but its the underside. On this section I left the "tab" to have a section to glue the two round sections together. My brother cut his and had to add a strip of ABS in the middle. Started with the scribing: and filed off edges Then top and base Assembly with Zap : Start with small side (10F). Before adding caps I used the sander to completely remove outer returns : The other side (10E) I left returns but sanded to make sure closure would be complete: Glue in small side (10F) first because the larger (10E) could pull through. TK3100 Thermal Detonator Ab Plate Attachment. Now it sits snug on backplate with NO space/gaps. And the 3M DURALOCK is STRONG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 TB24601 (Plushie) Primered Thermal Detonator TK19191 (Echo) Thermal Detonator Bondo TK-61281 (Clint/camprandal) Thermal Detonator Assembly TK19191 (Echo) Thermal Detonator Attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 kme1682 (Krista!) Alternative Thermal Detonator Attachment. "Over-engineered TD assembly to prevent TD from falling out due to very small lip provided in kit: Supplies: We used 28g 3/4"" Steel hanger strap and white solid gutter cover (plumbing dept) Method: - 3 eleven inch long strips were cut from the steel hanger strap. Each of the strips were fit to place within the three recessed portions of the interior back of the TD assembly. - Each strip was bent at about 4.5 inches. The smaller piece at the bend fits against the interior back wall of the TD assembly in the recessed ""lane."" - At the bend we used needlenose pliers to further bend the strap so that it fit within the supplied ABS overhang. - Once proper fit was assured the strip was CA glued into the ABS overhang. Once dried, the smaller strip against the interior back wall was CA glued. - 3 rectangles of rough side velcro was adhered to the interior back wall of the TD assembly covering the end of the smaller strip. The longer side was left hanging until the work for the interior back wall was complete. - The gutter cover was cut to fit as a one-piece panel across all three strips left hanging. The cover will be placed on the exterior side of the overhang strips, such that the exposed side of each strip is facing the TD assembly. - The three overhanging strips were trimmed to insure each strip ended about 0.5-1inch from the end of the gutter panel. - Three rough velcro rectangles were cut. These were placed at the bottom edge of the gutter cover and covered the bottom 1.5"" or so of each strip. - Smooth side velcro may be added to both sides of the back portion of the ab/back ""corset."" This choice to leave the smooth side on the corset was for ease of storage and transport. We found that there was minimal movement without smooth side velcro on the back corset, but at the time we had a fair amount of painter's tape holding the back corset together, which may have minimized movement." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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