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Posted

I have a full MTK kit on the way, but I'm also doing an ATA helmet and it just showed up!

 

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Posted

Before I started cutting, I wanted to paint the inside black. I applied a couple coats of primer suited for plastic then two costs of plasti dip. I thought it turned out pretty good until I noticed some imperfections above the frown.

 

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Posted

I was going to upload a closer photo... But apparently this phone app won't let me (even though I uploaded the first one just fine)

 

 

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Posted (edited)

I think I figured out how to upload pictures properly now...

 

This is a close up, but its not very clear. The plasti dip didn't hold so I'm going to try to dab the area with more primer and spray in a little more

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted (edited)

Trimmed the eyes and teeth... How's it look?

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted (edited)

I have everything trimmed except for the ears, but when I fit it together some parts don't sync up. As it is now, one side fits flush with the magnets, but there's a gap on the other. I'm guessing the ears will cover it though.

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted (edited)

I'm having issues with the ears and big gaps, but I noticed the screw at the bottom of the ear won't be able to go through both the back and the faceplate. There's not enough overlap... Any thoughts?

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted

You are right on point so far! First thing you need to do is throw out the idea that the two halves are going to fit together like a puzzle piece. They won't. I am a little shocked by how little overlap you have on the helmet's left side. That usually has a ton of overlap on the ATA helmets. Anyway, a rivet at the ear is a given, I have always shot another rivet right along the cheek tube. If you don't add the second rivet, the helmet halves can and most likely will pivot. Just don't place it too far down because you will need room for that lower ear screw. You could always slide the brow line up just a tad. This will give you a little more overlap at the bottom.

 

The main focus at this point is to make sure your brow trim sits flush across the forehead. Be sure the front side of the temple traps aligns with the outer corner of each eye. Before riveting at the ear, I ALWAYS start with a screw and a nut which is the same size as the rivet. Mainly because it's removable should you need to make adjustments. Drill out your ear mounting holes on both sides of the cap first. Align your brow line and all other points and mark the faceplate through the ear hole in the cap ON ONE SIDE. Drill that mark out and secure with the screw and nut. Now you can work on aligning the other side without worrying about the first side falling out of place. Pull the plastic over so that the brow sits nice and tight against the face. Make sure your brow line is even and the cap is centered on the face properly. **If you made a mistake (and we ALL do) and the cap is not centered, You can drill out your hole on the side you secured first and move the screw location until it is centered. If it takes two or three tries it's fine. The ear will cover it.***

Once everything is sitting pretty, mark the face through the hole on the other side and drill that out. Now you can secure that side with a rivet, and go back, remove the screw and secure that first side with a rivet. The helmet halves will still pivot. Adjust your brow to the height you want and find a spot along the side seam line to drill and pop another rivet it. Repeat on the other side.

 

Now you can begin your ears

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