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Inquiry on forearm / bicep matchup (NE Armor)


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I've looked through several forum posts and I believe I have my forearms and biceps matched up properly.  I'd like some validation from a trained eye if I have them matched up.  I do know that the 11 bump forearm piece is the left forearm, and the 12 bump forearm piece is the right.  I also know the bicep with the 'thumbprint' is the left bicep, and the other one is the right.  I also know that two sides that match up on each bicep have an inward curve, which I have matched up on both of them.  I also believe that the forearms have a raised bridge that when connected together make a raised rectangle down the length, which is what you use to match up each piece.  Here are my photos:

 

 

 

Two sides of the right bicep

 

 

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Two sides of the left bicep

 

 

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Two sides of left forearm

 

 

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Two sides of right forearm

 

 

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I matched up the 'bottom' of the biceps, near the elbow, and I matched up the 'top' of the forearms, near the elbow as well.  Am I on the right track?

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On the forearms, align the portion of the halves that are closest to the elbow. Yes one half is way longer than the other in the case of the right one. On the right bicep, the side that sits against your armpit will line up at the top. The outside portion does not. Although this is a pic of a different set of armor, they share the same molds. This is the right bicep during a build and a pic of the original.=======--------

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Thanks Gaz!  I'll realign my right bicep for the outside curved portion to line up at the top.  With the outside portion of the bicep not lining up, do I cut off the extra to match up there as well?

 

With the forearms, it looks like once I have it lined up correct, I just cut around so that it's flat, and take off the return edge as well.

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Regarding the bicep, if you look at the pic of the original armor, the halves were not cut to line up at the top.  The finish strip was just angled a bit. Regarding the finish strip ridge, the ridge edge was always a bit wavy. Take a straight edge and mark a line along the outside edge of the ridge. You will see it is probably far from straight even flaring out at the top. Use this straight edge line to mark your 7 MM from. Here is the build thread I am in the middle of. It shows this process as I did it on my forearms. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24737-rs-props-build-in-progress/

To answer your question about the underside where there is no strip ridge, yes....just wrap it around your forearm leaving enough room for you to get your hand in and out at the wrist. Mark it, cut it, glue it

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Regarding the bicep, if you look at the pic of the original armor, the halves were not cut to line up at the top.  The finish strip was just angled a bit. Regarding the finish strip ridge, the ridge edge was always a bit wavy. Take a straight edge and mark a line along the outside edge of the ridge. You will see it is probably far from straight even flaring out at the top. Use this straight edge line to mark your 7 MM from. Here is the build thread I am in the middle of. It shows this process as I did it on my forearms. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24737-rs-props-build-in-progress/

To answer your question about the underside where there is no strip ridge, yes....just wrap it around your forearm leaving enough room for you to get your hand in and out at the wrist. Mark it, cut it, glue it

 

Awesome gaz.  That's exactly the info I've been looking for.  I've been going blind with all the build threads I've been reading, but I can never seem to get some exact information like this.  I checked out your thread and that's where I got the first info about how to cut the finish ridge spot.  I had not seen that mentioned in other build threads I read.

 

With the underside, does it matter which piece I have go to the inside of the other piece when marking and cutting?  I'd hate to cut a chunk off of one piece when I should have cut it off of the other one.  

 

EDIT:

 

I think I'm starting to get it.  I was just looking at my forearm pieces, and on the left piece without the 11 indentions, the backside of it has more extra ABS than the other piece which joins together to it.  That means I would cut the extra off of the underside of the non-indented piece.

Edited by maxsteele
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