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Thumper

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Thumper

  1. I've gotten a lot of spam, scams and I may already be a winner.

     

    But this is the first of its kind that I have seen. Short and sweet without a bunch of url tags. Looks like a variation of "All this money is yours; We'll send you a boguss check and all you have to do is send us money for the taxes"

     

     

     

    email came from j_mor27@live.com

     

     

    As you have already guessed, this is a scam. All that will happen is you will send him lots of your money.

     

    In fact, the email elicites you to participate in a fraud, as the writer says, "anonymous funds" and that the funds are "without any record of the owner, source, and origin". He then wants to claim the money by, "presenting you as the Beneficiary". In other words, you pretend this money is yours, help him claim it, and it gets split it 50-50.

     

     

    All that will be claimed is the money and information you send him. The only money that exists in this is the money you have in your bank account or pocket right now. Delete the email and don't reply to it, or any others, even as a joke or an attempt to string him along. All it will do is open you up to additional fraud and spam.

     

    And spread the word. The best way to stop this type of fraud is education, as it is extremely difficult if not impossible to track the individuals responsible and bring them to justice.

  2. If you look at the helmet teeth as they are designed, the third tooth on each side is pretty large. In essence, you are going to put a rectangle hole in the middle of the last tooth, thereby creating a fourth tooth on each side.

     

    You need to measure the third tooth size. The middle of that measurement is the middle of the new rectangle hole you will create. I then used an exacto knife to drill open a small hole in the helmet at this middle point. Then I used a small file to begin creating the rectangle. You can use the width of the other rectangles as a guide and the upper and lower part of the frown is the height.

     

    I also used a pencil to trace the rectangle size. This gave me a guide for filing limits and if I drew it to large, I could always erase the mark. Its also possible to use a dremel to drill out and shape the hole, but if you slip, then you get to buy a new helmet. With a file, you can take your time and size it better.

     

    This is my helmet with the fourth tooth. The hole is actually a bit bigger than the picture makes it seem. Small is good though. If you want you can always take more off; not so easy to add it back on.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    NewHeadBand.jpg

  3. I haven't had any problems with Goo Gone eating my helmet or anything else for that matter but the bottle does have a disclaimer that it should be tested "on a hidden area before using" (what item doesn't these days?), and not used on silk, leather, suede, or rubber. But I didn't really expect it to say, "Don't apply to replica Stormtrooper Armor."

     

    I was going to post pictures of the bottle but just as easy is the website, www.GooGone.com The site has a whole list of products that they say are are made from "Citrus and Petroleum Solvent". The Material Safety Data Sheets are also there for those that may be more chemically inclined.

     

    This isn't an endorsement of the product. I just felt that since I mentioned it and there was a possibility that someone had a problem with it before, I wanted to make sure no one ruined their armor after reading my post when a little soap and water may have cleaned things up just as well. I know Tony (ItsThatGuy) said he used a different product but I thought in an abundance of caution, I would add a bit to my original post. Knowing what work I'm putting into my helmet, it would kill me if I helped (even inadvertantly) destroy someone elses armor.

     

    And as for the Magic Eraser, haven't tried it but I will now. Thanks for the hint.

  4. A little while back Machorascal posted some photos of a modification to his brow trim in the Assembly, Mods, and Painting Section. He used a thinner automotive body moulding. I took his advice and found some of the stuff he listed at my local Pep Boys (Styleguard Automotive Body Moulding S33216 Trapazoid) . I think it looks better than the thick weather stripping that came with the helmet. The top photo was taken before the mod; bottom photo after.

     

    OldHeadBand.jpg

     

    NewHeadBand.jpg

     

    Of course I had to buy 16 feet to get the 17 3/4 inches that I need. If you like what you see and want some, send me a PM. $5 for a 20 inch piece should cover a package and shipping first class US Mail to any Domestic address(International would be more; PM if interested and I'll research a new price so you can make the call.) I have enough for 7, 20 inch pieces.

  5. I sprayed the inside of mine with Performix Plasti Dip but I did it after I had it together. It took some careful masking and I had to work one section at a time. Either because of the type of spray I was using or I might have just tried to put it on too thick to start, it started to run inside the helmet. I also figure this was a side affect of essentially trying to spray the inside rim of a bowl. (Gravity. Go figure!)

     

    Once it dried though it looked pretty good and I was able to spray over the run marks to even them out. There are still a few spots I missed but they are under the rim and can't be seen unless you crank your head funny when you put it on.

     

    If you want to spray it, do it before its together. If I had it to do over again and it was already assembled, I would have brushed it on. Either way, be sure to mask anything you don't want black (your hand could always slip) and have a wet rag and some Goo Gone handy in case you do. (Goo gone does wonders and leaves a nice orange smell.)

     

    I'm still working on the fans and speakers but the plan is the same as Bryce. Velcro boxes for easy removal and repair.

  6. I think under armor is the way to go to. I have a one piece unitard I had made, which looks great, but I can tell it would be good to have something that repels moisture better. Plus, it wouldn't hurt to have a spare. I'd hate to think what my unitard will smell like after a two or three day convention next summer.

     

    On that note, does anyone have a specific model # of top and bottom they are using from Under Armor. I'm looking at the website and it looks like the Heat Gear Zone Longsleeve and the Heat Gear Leggings would work, but as its winter, Heat Gear is a bit hard to come by to look at (and I live near the Under Armour HQ).

  7. John,

     

    Welcome to the FISD. I haven't been at this for very long so I understand the trepidation. I spent a few days just staring at my kit (FX) wondering if I could do it right, and afraid one slip of the blade would turn it into a giant pile or recyclable plastic. Once I finally plunged in, each little cut I made gave me confidence to continue.

     

    I made a few errors making mods here or there but overall, it worked out well. You've got the right idea. Take your time, read everything you can in this forum, tallk to your location garrison, but most of all, have fun!

  8. You're right Doug. It's addictive. I'm still tweaking my TK suit (Elite status? One day we dream.) and I'm already researching a TB. Plus I've got all these neat new tools to play with. I suppose I could have just bought a sports car like most people in a mid-life crisis.

     

    Welcome to the forum!

  9. I'm looking to buy the companion pen to the Star Wars pen shown below. If I recall correctly, the companion looks exactly like this one but instead of the Rebel logo on the top, it has the Imperial Cog. (Rebel logo! What was I thinking!?)

     

    It has a Fisher Space Pen cartridge inside, but I'm not sure if Fisher had anything to do with the actual production.

     

    They were sold at the Smithsonian (and perhaps other places) during the Star Wars: The Magic of Myth exhibition.

     

    If anyone has one or knows of one they are willing to part with, please PM for further negotiations.

     

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  10. Completed my TK suit in time for Halloween. It's functional but I need to make some more adjustments and modifications (garter for the thighs, fans and voice amp, cloth belt, a little padding here or there, etc) but overall, I think it came out well.

     

    Thanks to everyones advice I reviewed on the board. I submitted my 501st application today as well so we should be able to change my status in a few weeks.

     

    And here's a picture of the happy trooper:

     

    post-940-1193880229_thumb.jpg

  11. I just received my body suit from Renaissance Dancewear. Turnaround time was about 4 weeks.

     

    After searching the internet, I know they have been around for awhile and (supposedly) a lot of other people have these suits but I thought I'd throw out the info for any newbies out there (like me). I didn't see anything mentioned when I did a search in the forum.

     

    If anyone wants price and contact info, let me know. And if anyone has had a bad experience with them, throw that out too. (Of course I maybe should have asked that question BEFORE I bought it).

     

    Pictures will be posted if anyone wants to see it but to avoid embarrasment, I will not be wearing it in the pics untill I get my armor finished. Its a good thing there is a large Ab plate. I'm gonna go eat a salad now.

  12. I'm new to the forum and new to armor building. I'm working on my first TK suit. I say first because I can see how addicting this could get. Plus I have all this hardware (rivets, glue gun, etc); might as well find something to do with them when I'm done.

     

    Thanks to everyone on the forum so far. I have really been given some great ideas for construction and modification. I hope to have my TK armor complete in time for Halloween and 501st membership shortly thereafter.

  13. Jester,

     

    I read on another site you can use fine sandpaper to clean up the ABS glue spill, then use your ABS polish to buff out the scratch marks. I'm not sure how well this works as I haven't had the "oppportunity" to try it yet. You might want to experiment on a scrap piece of ABS.

     

    Good luck.

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