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runewolf

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by runewolf

  1. I'm going to call it a night before I paint something that I shouldn't. I'll get the vocoder, ears and frown painted tomorrow evening. and then try my hand at putting pin striping around the ears the next day.

     

    The suit could be finished, atleast the parts I do have, by Halloween if I take the next two days off and the weather cooperates. I would be lacking my neck seal, holster, knee plate and blaster scope.

  2. WEll I'm not going to get my suit done in time for Halloween, so I'm working on finishing my helmet so I can atleast wear it. Maybe have to do an "off duty" trooper - jeans, flannel shirt, fishing rod and TK helmet lol. I need to get the frown and vocoder painted and the screen mesh installed. But I have the lenses and a hard hat liner installed.

     

    Look Ma! You can't see my eyes!

     

    4IWgPZD.jpg

     

    4axVg6C.jpg

     

    You can however see my nose lol and I just noticed I scratched the lens installing it BAH!

  3. Hey gang, two quick questions... I am getting very close to having my suit done and am waiting on ab buttons from VaderDave. The button plates on my suit are not the best detail, which is why I want a set of his great buttons. If I end up painting the buttons on, will I simply be able to drill the plates and install his buttons? Or will the buttons look to high from the plates?

     

    I had a dyslexic moment and assembled my ab section with the 6 rivets on the right hand side instead of the left. Is this going to cause me any issues going for EIB?

  4. A girl in a room full of geeks, this is scary (ha, ha) welcome to the group! Are there any 501st rules on ab plates for Fem troops? Seems a waste to pu one on if you don't need to _wink_!

     

    LOL whole heartily agree! Ofcourse, there would be fights over who got to paint the ab buttons on ;) since ab plate or not, the button are required and must be the correct color hehe

  5. So which is better the AP or the FX and if I make my ANH blaster from scratch is it 501st compatible.

     

     

    AP, ATA, TM, TE are all more accurate than FX, but FX is easier to assemble.It all comes down to personal preference and how much $$ you want to spend. And yes you can make your own blaster.... In fact there are many fine examples of scratch built metal and PVC blasters on this forum.

  6. Hey, just joined the forum. Im looking on a deal on armor. I am a bit large, so any advice on that would help. Is there a list of 501st preferred dealers and where to find them? I cant find Authenticprops items anywhere. Thanks for the help.

     

    JK

     

     

    Welcome! What are your dimensions like? Some armor is more suited for some body types, so giving us an idea can help us point you in the right direction. What kind of budget are you looking at too? Some of it is rather $$ in my opinion.

  7. Well I'd planned on getting home about an hour and a half before I actually did, so all I could get done today was glossing the helmet and the endcaps for my thermal detonator. I think bugs hate me or simply cannot resist bright white :( I have a couple that will need to be sanded out and some spiders decided to send little webbing around... So I'll have to figure out what to do about those fixes. I filled in the ears with plumber's putty and got them looking much better. Hey I think it looks good for my first time building!

     

  8. galvanizedfe said:
    this one is all over the net i also cant seem to find what plastic they used. my armor is a FX (i think) so i want to make sure that the helmet is the same white plastic so it will not stick out. i guess i would also ask what should i do with the boots? they are the short ones and every time i take a step the leg armor goes up over the boot and they scrunch together and it looks terrible. ideas?------------

     

    FX is ABS plastic. You may luck out and get a helmet that matches, but if not you can always repaint. The boots are not accurate boots. From the CRL requirments: * Boots. These must be white leather or leather like, above ankle, with a flat sole, with small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Jodhpur-type boots or an equivalent style. No buckles or laces. Elvis or mariachi boots are not acceptable.

     

    You can get a really nice and accurate boot for less than $50 from tkboots.com if they have them in your size.

     

    Please, spend some time researching on this site and ask questions. There is a wealth of info on here and in the long run it will save you money (or would have since you would not have bought those boots).

  9. Yep should work just fine. Wear eye protection! Even if you think "Ah I don't need it I'm just going to sand this little bit right here." A trip to the ER to get something removed from your eye is no fun.

     

    As for what material to use, it depends on what you want to do with it. Display or troop. and what your skill sets are. Since you are asking the question, I'm going to assume that you are not a metalsmith by trade... So if you are looking to do an entirely metal blaster, go for aluminum or if you don't mind paying the $$ copper. Much easier to work with than steel and will be lighter for when you are trooping.

     

    I took an easier route after failing to find a suitable metal pipe to work with. I went to Tractor Supply and purchased a 1 1/4" low pressure PVC drain pipe and the PVC blaster kit from Doopydoos.com . It made my life so much easier. I used the templates from the blaster builders website you posted to mark and drill all the holes and then used an exacto knife (I didn't have a dremel yet) to cut out the ejector ports and the bolt guide slot. I'm waiting to get a resin scope and power cylinders to finish it out, but if I had all the parts on hand I could have made this one in a few days.

  10. Ah, I know of similar stuff here. I used non-latex caulk on mine and it is not doing as well as I hoped. It is still spongy, so I can't decide if I'm going to try to remove it or use the putty to force it into the ear more and then be able to sand the putty smooth. I'm sure I could layer the paint on the ears enough to make it look smooth as is, but I'm not happy with it right now.

  11. Could someone PM me and tell me exactly what you wrote in your e-mail to them. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I can't understand why I am not getting a reply.

     

    Maybe try another address mate. Do you have a gmail account or something you can try from? These guys are being slammed with emails from all of us, but somehow they are keeping it going and replying in a few days at the latest. I think you posted the right email address that you were sending to, if not here it is again: troopersupplies@hotmail.com

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